BRAAP

My personal list of preferred L-series heads for N/A L28 street applications. For stock to moderate builds, regardless of casting #, the round exhaust ports with liners flow very well and are my preference, just blend the back of the valve seat into the liner. The other beneficial attributes of the liner were already covered. Another bonus for he round port exhaust is with the correct gasket will work with the round and square port headers if you that what you already have, sadly, not the other way around. If using flat top pistons, the P79 is my first choice with the P90 being essentially equal. The only time I would prefer the P90 over the P79 is for very wild street an all out race applications that require crazy porting in the exhaust to match a cam and induction for an engine that only works wells above 4000-5000 RPM, idle at 1200+, etc, (.550”+ lift) other wise for N/A street applications the nod goes to the P79. For the dished pistons, follow the same exact scenario as the flat tops above, just substitute the N47 and N42 in place of the P79 and P90 respectively. For boosted applications, I lean towards the P90 as a first choice for its lower compression ratio, (the L-6 is hyper sensitive to detonation). The other square port heads, (E31, E88, N42) also work well and for the very custom turbo builds if trying match chamber size/shape to specific pistons. Round port heads with liners on Turbo engines. Having seen and personally experience exhaust liners coming apart on N/A applications I don’t recommend using the round port heads for Turbo applications. That’s not to stay it can’t be done, some on this form have done it and with no issues. I think so long as you keep very close tabs on AFR’s and EGTs and keep the tune on the more conservative side, the liners should hold up fine. Bryan Blake, aka 1 fast z, is an L-series guru. His advice is sound and his work speaks for itself. First rate and makes lots of power! KCE, if you have a P79 and are building a mild to moderate N/A L28, by all means use the P79, it is wonderful cylinder head.

Ron Davis Racing radiator, their off the shelf stock car radiator, Chevrolet In-Out pattern. have been using these in our 6 cylinder and V-8 Z cars over the years, we used to stock them a few years back, RTz ended up with our last one for his BMW powered 260-Z. http://www.rondavisradiators.com/Stock%20Car%20Radiators.htm If memory serves, here are the part numbers we used to stock for the 240 through early 260 and late 260 through 280-ZX, (also fits the Z32 as well). '70-mid'74= "1A-26163" Mid'74-'83 & '90-'96= "1A-26193" The part number is the dimensions, before ordering, measure between your frame rails where the radiaotr fits and the hight fo the your core support to be sure the number I posted are correct. Hope that helps, Paul (Sorry for the off topic)

I built an aluminum plate for mine, others have used an expansion plug. Custom engraving would be a nice touch.

Discussion over the molds is fine but please do not not turn this into a "beat down Justin" vs "save the Justin" debate. HBZ's position regarding Z Force productions-Justin Hodges is documented here; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/78635-justin-hodges-280zforce/

You're welcome and thank you for bringing this to our attention.

There is a known bug with the forum software right now, we know it is an convenience to all, we hope to have it resolved in the next few days. NOTAM. You al may have noticed the multiple duplicate threads and replies in threads. When responding to a thread or starting a new one, after you click submit the forum will hang. Just wait it out or open a new tab/window and continue on, please do not keep clicking submit thinking it did not take, it did take on the first click and will continue to submit your post every time you click submit, even though it did not update on your screen yet.

Don't know of any 14mm-11mm bushings, sorry. I have not heard of or know if thicker wall O-rings/square rings can be used successfully to allow the 11mm injector to be used in a 14mm rail, sorry. I would be skeptical of trying it as that leaves a bit of rubber O-ring exposed that over time as the fuel pressure fluctuates could end up cutting the O-ring at the injector? Not sure that would happened, but something I would be concerned about. I know you mentioned you don't want to machine the intake manifold but if you are open to that option, it opens the door for TONS of injector flow rate options being the most common fuel injector with tons of available used injectors for cheap. Some shops have the reamer that will open the Z intake manifold to accept 14mm O-rings, which we happen to have. Shipping back and forth between Oregon and Canada may be expensive, unless you have local shipping contacts across the border from you.

No problem. For what it's worth it's not your computer, the forum software is buggy and we hope to have it fixed in the next few days, Sorry for the inconvenience guys. In the mean time, you only have to click submit once, the post will be posted even though the forum hangs or gives an internal server error message.

That is correct. The PCM pulls to ground.

He said it was from an early Z31T, don't know what or if any changes were made to the Z31 trans through its production run.

Ok, just got off the phone with my father. He used a Z31 Turbo 4 speed auto trans behind the L28ET in his '82 ZX. To get the Z31 V6 auto trans to bolt up to the L6, all he did was use the bellhousing from the L6 auto trans, that's it. He put several thousand miles on it, autcrossing etc. He also said something about the torque converter from the Turbo Z-31 is beefier unit than the N/A versions and feels it is necessary if producing above stock levels of Boosted performance. He wasn't sure if the trans internals themselves were any different but was adamant that the torque converter was different. Hope that helps, Paul

My father used the 4 speed auto trans out of a Z31 behind his L28ET in his '82 ZX-T. I'll report back with more info when I hear back from him, hopefully tonight.

Thread stickied, errr, stuck.

Correct, worse case, it would be like manual brakes, pedal effort would be high but brakes would still be 100% functional. When my brake booster in my V-8 Z went out, I ran without it for quite some time, just removed the check valve and plugged the port on the intake manifold. Took a while to get used to but after a couple weeks as a daily driver like that, actually liked it during spirited driving conditions and auto-crossing. Can't really explain why other than it seemed to give that little extra feel/control while threshold braking. However for a comfortable daily driver, the assist from the booster is nice.

The booster body itself may be air tight, it is the diaphragm sealing to the perimeter of the the booster body, separating the front and back side of the booster 100% that is in question. To modify a booster such as that makes resealing the diaphragm to the booster body 100% as the pedal travels through is full range of motion a feat not easily done even in super shops. The delicacy of maintaing the diaphragm seal to the perimeter of the booster body through full pedal travel is not easy. I'm not saying it can't be done but I am skeptical if the booster is still operational as a "booster". If you have a vacuum source available such as vacuum pump of sorts, Mity-Vac or even a shop vacuum, (shop vacuum doesn't draw much vacuum, but might draw enough for the test), with the booster vacuum line and the check valve connected, apply a vacuum to the booster, then remove the vacuum source. Then after 30-60 seconds wait, push the brake pedal by hand. If the diapragm is sealed, the pedal effort will be lighter than it was before you applied vacuum. The brake booster should be able to retain enough vacuum on it's own after the vacuum source has been removed that you should be able to get 2-3 half travel actuations before the pedal effort gets hard again as the vacuum is being consumed for the "boosting" operation. When booster clearance is an issue, a couple of viable options are smaller booster if one exists that fits, adapting the hydra boost available from several Marques such as Ford, Jaguar, BMW, (see pics) or using push rod arrangement, relocate the booster and Master Cylinder. BMW used that method in some of its earlier 7 series, (I think 5 series as well, but don't recall for sure), booster and Master cylinder are forward of the strut tower with push rod arrangement from the pedal through the firewall. The Hydroboost, (or Hydraboost) uses the power steering pump/fluid for applying "boost" to the brakes. Nice option for really wide engines that encroach on traditional brake boosters.

EEEEK... Is there still a diaphragm in the booster and does it still seal, i e. hold vacuum?

John's bored lately...

Having an R180 in hand, you'll know right away after taking a peak under the car if the diff in your car is R-200 or R180. The R200 is physically larger and the mustache bar for the R200 is thicker, taller in height and routes behind the vertical uprights, vs the thinner R180 mustache bar that routes forward of the vertical uprights. If you have the R200, you’ll need the R180 Mustache bar to get your R-180 in the car. Might be able to find someone local to trade your R200 m-bar for their R180? Stickies in the drivetrain section cover the differences more indepth.

Don't get discouraged, the concept is great. We have discussions like this all the time on here, some wilder than others. Some have taken those wild ideas and built them, twin cam head for the L6 block is one example. There has been discussion of a custom two-in one style camshafts for single cam applications, (I think it was the Viper that uses this, can't seem to find the thread right now), that allows phasing the intake and exhaust independently. Camshaft inside a camshaft design. Here is the Mechadyne info; http://www.mechadyne-int.com/vva-products/concentric-camshafts GM is using their version of single cam VVT in the LSx engines with good results here; (actually a, Variable Cam Timing, not so much Variable Valve Timing). http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=72704 Adapting that to the L6 would be cool. Would the power gains be worth the effort, time, and expense? Most likely not but it would be a great educational engineering exercise for the person doing it and the end product would have some WOW factor.

Research variable valve timing and the gains of such. The oil supply for valve actuation is the least of the concerns of DIY VVT and VERY easy to deal with.

Small update. The JTR E36-LSx driveshaft arrived today. Nice piece, spicer u-joints, heavy wall tubing, (.083"), 2 1/2" diameter. Hoping the smaller diameter will help alleviate some of the driveshaft rubbing issues the cars with the stock diff bushings and cradle bushings are exhibiting. Not 100% sure it will, still looks pretty tight in the areas a few others have posted about, will be keeping a close eye on it once on the road. Where the fuel tank crosses over the driveshaft hangs down just a skosch below the roof of the tunnel. The tank pushes up easily so has room to be raised, will be looking into raising it a little more, possibly another strap in this region. Installed the tilt steering column from an earlier E36 that I picked up back in summer of '09. Install went smooth, I like the tilt function. Best part of todays project is the new steering column has good bearings, not rusted, don't squeak, etc. While I had the steering column out with great access to the instrument cluster I pulled that and installed a pin in location 13 of the X16 connector for future Euro cluster with oil temp gauge and also removed the ASC bulb for the ASC delete. Wired in the PCM activated shift light into the cluster. Tore the cluster down to its essentials and spent some time scratching my head looking for a good location in the cluster for an LED shift light that would look OE. Ideally want it on the high side of the tach range. It can be done but will require a good long day with lots of detail work to pull it off nicely. Decided to save that project for another time, for now I took one of the indicator bulbs, installed a bright LED in-place of the bulb using the BMW socket, plugged it into the indicator in the bottom, just left of the center, looks like a gear with "!" in it. Not ideal, but at least the shift light is now wired in, functional, and OE appearing. Sanderson headers is working on refining the design to be less compromising and clear most oil pans. Passenger side prototype header is complete and the driver side is getting one modification to the #1 primary. If all goes well with the driver side header I could have a set here in the next month or so.

Oldy but a goody. Stuck.

This will be a sweetheart build, nice collection of go-fast bits.