Jump to content
HybridZ

BRAAP

Administrators
  • Posts

    4130
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Everything posted by BRAAP

  1. For what its worth, all BMW E30 and E36 cars have much of the front suspension solid mounted to the unibody. Only rubber isolation is the Lollipops and upper spring perch/hats. X-member is solid to the frame rails, lower controls arms are solid to the X-member, rack is solid to the X-member, etc. Though in defense of this, BMW did use a lot of sound insulation on both sides of the firewall as well as IN the trans tunnel and inside the car over the trans tunnel, floors, etc. Excellent Z package. The Nissan V6 being a very small and lightweight package capable of 300-350 daily driver HP, use of mostly rubber bushings with a few strategic durometer changes in a few locations. Couple things I would change with only 300 HP as the level to shoot for that would help compliment the weight savings of the little SOHC V6. Z32 trans is physically large and heave, overkill if only 300 HP is the goal. That trans is right at the same weight as the T56 and personally, if I could use either one, I would take the T56 over the Z32 trans every time for it’s available gearing and its synchros are not as fragile. Only reason I would use the Z32 trans is if it was a direct bolt up and already had one. I more complementary choice would be the World Class T5. In stock trim is plenty adequate for 100,000 plus miles at 300 HP and is saem weight as the DAtusn L-series 5 speed, (50 lbs lighter than the Z32/T56 trans) and physically smaller leaving more room in the tunnel for exhaust, (ran one in my V-8 Z for over a year of abusive street driving, running 12.3 @ 113 MPH in a 2900lb ’75 280-Z , never gave me any trouble and was one of the nicest shifting trans I have driven. I'm sure other experience is probably different). R-200, only if I were planning run it as hard it can be run drag strip or lots of HPDE with "energetic" shifts and stickier than typical street tires. Other wise for a 300 HP boosted V6 that doesn’t produce the instant torque/shock loads of a comparable HP larger displacement V8 under similar driving conditions, I would choose the R-180 and save those few pounds out back. Now if planning to 400+ HP, then the Z32/T56 trans and R200 would be definites. My $.02
  2. You can delete the Air Flow Regulator, but it come with compromise. I deleted it on my the original BRAAP Z, at the time I was in my 20's and was wiling to tolerate some compromise in how the car ran fo rhte lceanup appearacne of the intake manifold, (see pic below of that car). The compromise for deleting the Air Flow Regualtor is; 1) If the idle speed for a warm engine is anythign below 1000 RPM, then cold starts in the morning or after the car had sat for more than a few hours at temps below 70-80 degrees outside required me to feather the throttlle for a few minutes till the engine developed some heat and would idle on it own. 2) If the idle speed was set to the bare minimum the car would idle without me having to hold the throttle on cold start withe temps in the 40-50 degree range in the morning, that meant a warm engine idle speed of 1100-1200 RPM. I chose #2 and lived wit it that way for a few years. knowing what I have since learned about the stock Z EFI, and wanting to retain that clean appearance withe stock EFI, intake, its easier to just relocate the Air Flow Regulator to the under ht the intake or the fender and route vacuum lines, one before the TB, the other after the TB plumbed in under the intake for cleanliness sake. Hope that helps, Paul Bone stock EFI, cleaned up, minus a few goodies, only real compromise was the Air Flow Regulator delete, everything else functions as OE.
  3. Thanks for the update, glad you found the problem. I recall seeing a couple fuel rails for sale in the past several months in the classifieds section. You might also try checking the vendor section and posting an ad in the Want To Buy section.
  4. Previous owner or someone gave you too left arms! If it goes straight down the road don't worry about, just leave it, no one will be the wiser unless they crawl under your car. If the rear of your car feels like it is steering one direction or the other, (excessively crabbing down the road), then just find two right arms and swap those in and it should track fine.
  5. Exactly, the M3 and C5 do offer great performance with livable creature comforts, (why I chose them as the benchmark), but lack the classic S-30 styling. In getting older, driving more often, in heavy traffic, in wanting that driving experience to be more comfortable yet maintain the fun performance of spry sports car when I do get on the back roads near home I was willing to compromise the "WOW look at me" styling for the more conservative mature styling of a sedan, (yeah, I know, old man styling), so I am currently combining the impeccable handling manners of the quiet and comfortable BMW M3 with the wonderful torque of the GM LSx V8; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/79556-lsx-powered-bmw-m3-e36-chassis/ Doesn't have that S30 sex appeal, but I'm OK with that in the point in life.
  6. This exact discussion is on that RTz and myself have on a regular basis over the past 15 years or so. My opinion is yes it can be done. The LS1 powered C5 Vette is one such sports car that works on the track, autocross and is comfortable on long jaunts. I mean the standard Vette, not the Z51 handling package or Z06. Those are bit harsher in their ride though do perform a little bit better. E36 and E46 BMW M3 is another car that is good jack of all trades, (Love my M3 for that reason) So, using the LS1 C5 Vette and/or M3 as the benchmark, what does it take to get an S30 to perform to that level of handling, acceleration and braking and creature comfort? 1) S30 can be modified to produce great steady state grip without loosing too much of its road manners or gaining too much noise. 2) Decent transitional handling, corner entry, and exit performance, slalom. Getting this AND maintaining good steady state grip is a huge compromise with the Datsun suspension. Up front the Z suffers from insufficient caster, too much king pin angle, and the unsprung to sprung weight ration is bit high and shows up as harsher ride as the springs and dampers get tighter. The rear, geometry is not bad, but again not great. It is much less of compromise in the back than the Z front suspension, which why when people ant to replace the Z rear suspension not bother with the front and say it is for handling upgrade reasons, their true intent is questioned. The rear does suffer from being heavy. The control arm is actually quite light and strong. 3) Acceleration. This is easy from the standpoint of a choice, hard part is affording it and getting in, mounted in soft enough mounts so as not to shake the car apart and annoy occupants yet be tight enough it doesn't "wind-up" some 90 degrees under acceleration and deceleration, Volvo 240 Turbo wagon comes to mind with all its wind up. Boost the L-6, swap in a N/A or boosted twin cam 6, V8 or rotary. Keeping the exhaust quiet is the hardest part without losing to much power in the process. 4) Braking. Again, relatively easily as their are plenty of brake upgrades out there, though expensive especially if wiling to modify or replace the Datsun suspension with more modern designs that have less compromise in them, (and NO, the Nissan Multilink crap does not fall under better! It only works good when made so stiff its doesn't have to travel, which semi trailing arm will also work just as well and weighs less.) 5) Road noise! This. This one will be tough, mainly due to the S30 chassis being so small and tight. Lots of sound deadening, different layer to dampen the broad spectrum of interior noise that reverberates through the S-30 shell. This will also add considerable weight to the car. How the suspension attaches to the car affects road noise, as does tire choice. If one is wiling to swap out the front and rear suspension with OE components from modern sports car such as the M3 or C-5 Vette, or other comparable car that handles well and is relatively quiet at freeway speeds, wiling to apply lot os effort into sound deadening, it can be done. Though for a lot less money, one could just buy a C5 Vette, M3, M5, comparable Mercedes, Porsche, etc. My $.02
  7. I am currently building one of my cores to sell, P79 casting, should be ready in the next couple weeks, (customer P79 to arrive in the next day or so is priority over this one). WOuld make for a very nice head for an L28, flat tops, moderate cam with carbs or aftermarket EFI. Head was fully disassembled, oil galley plugs removed, entire head blasted and jet washed. Oil galleys have been tapped for NPT plugs and plugs installed. Head will be assembled with valves, new stem seals, new aftermarket springs good to .490" lift, and cam towers, (spray bare style or non, buyer preference, sorry I do not have a spray bar to go with it). Port work consists of valves fully unshrouded in the chambers, chambers CC'd to within 1/4 cc of each other, exhaust seats blended into the liners, intake ports port matched to FelPro intake gasket and intake seats blended into port walls, port floor radiused to seat. Intermediate region of the intake port left as cast. Machine work consists of valve seats cut with 4 and 5 angles, intake and exhaust seat width of .060", seats concentric to within .0005" of the guide. Intake and exhaust valves have a 30 degree back cut, tips faced. Top and bottom of the head surfaced, fly cut. Buyer to source, install, and set up his own cam, rockers and lash pads. Sorry I do not have any more rockers in my inventory. For an additional fee, if buyer sends me his/her cam, rockers, I can set up the valve train, I will include appropriate lash pads. Price for this head is not yet determined. Pics of work being performed will be posted when finished in the ad, unless it sells before the ad gets posted. Couple shots of progress thus far; Chamber roughed in; Valves;
  8. Watching all the other E36 V8 conversions come to life and drive down the road over the past few weeks on Bimmerforums is encouraging. Engine is still sitting beside the car though I did get the low pressure brake line from the reservoir to the ABS module finished and connected. Ran a 3/8” hard line across the firewall with continual slope so any air in this large of line will naturally float up to the master cylinder reservoir or the bleeder block I fabbed and attached tot he ABS module. This bleeder block has two fittings that spaced out perfectly and directly plugs into the ABS module replacing those black plastic fittings. The Bleeder block is hollowed out with an open cavity at the top with a bleeder screw to seal it. Line out the bottom is 10mm with a small section of the 10mm BMW brake hose joining to the 3/8” line and the bleeder block. Diagram showing the slope and relative elevations; Low pressure line is lightly highlighted in GREEN; Bleeder block, (excuse the crude work and finish, losing ambition to take my time and make it nice, just want it done)! Bleeder block installed in the ABS module; For those relocating their ABS modules, both of those black plastic fittings have the same size orifice opening even though they have two different size hoses, for some odd reason. As such, you are not confined to use 10mm for the larger one. Other European cars with ABS modules have similar fittings and at different angles, 45 degrees and straight show below, which may help in routing those low pressure lines. Till the next update, hopefully before winter sets in, happy motoring...
  9. Straight on, looks pretty good. It may even have adequate open area between the bumper and hood as well as below the bumper for cooling air... Any pics from a side/frontal 45 degree angle and possibly a side/profile shot as well?
  10. ..and that's all John could glean from the video... What I thought was odd was the use of Paper-buttholes as markers around the circumference of the steering wheels, top center marked more prominently. With all those markers, almost seems to pointless... Maybe some new concept of visual racing steering wheel position indication?... Maybe reference points for some sort of video recording of the steering wheel , i.e. data-logging driver steering inputs?
  11. Impressive. Kudo's to Ford for stepping up to the plate and delivering world class performance in an affordable package.
  12. Here is a list of the known LSx BMW E36 kits available or in the works; As mentioned early on, the Vorshlag kit; http://www.vorshlag.com/index.php?cPath=0_1_4_63 Nash was also mentioned and linked early. New Age Hotrods; http://www.nahrods.com/ We all know JTR with the V-8 Z kit, well they are also working on a BMW conversion kit, hopefully to be available soon! I am fortunate enough to be working with them on the prototype kit, we're finalizing few details before JTR offers the mounts, headers, etc to the public. JTR is also going to offer traditional SBC kit as well. (I am currently working with JTR on the LSx kit with my '97 M3, finalizing a few specifics before committing on the final mount design. Hope to have both shorties and long tubes available as well). http://www.jagsthatrun.com/BMW_Order.html Ford 5.0 conversion kit/instructions; http://e36v8.com/index.html Samberg Rod and Custom, (of LSx RX7 fame) recently released a very nice kit; http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=623.0 Here's a short list of a a few guys have recently got theirs fired up and running. Thaniel of corse has his, as did Rao, but he parted his out. HBZ Member MAS280 is running the Samberg kit, just out of paint, not on the road yet; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1214157 A gentleman local to us here in Portland, using a Camaro LS1/T56 in his '97 M3 sedan and also the Samberg kit, hopefully to be on the road this weekend, (taking my HPTuners over there this weekend for VATS delete and tach signal change). http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1503369 Bimerok built his own mounts, headers etc. His headers came out wonderful; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1289987 357i recently got his up and running, another DIY conversion; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1347123 RahgBag recently got his up and running recently, Vorshlag kit; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1363423 Last and certainly the slowest progress of them all, mine. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1259268
  13. Bump for another LSx powered BMW up for sale. E34 5 series wagon... http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1514972
  14. If only wanting to "Crank" the engine for compression checks, only thing you need to do is the jump start by bridging the two posts/connectors in the picture below linked by the MAGENTA line. Using a screw driver or other metal object such as socket extension, bridge the two electrical posts/connectors picture below, (It wont shock you, but it will create ad big loud bright arc, so be ready for that). The little one will be the spade connector, (that is the start signal wire), unplug that connector so you can make this connection. those two posts on the starter. If wanting to start the engine, make sure you get power to the dizzy/coil, (typically key in the ON position, if those wires are fried, connect directly to the battery, when you are ready to start). Using a screw driver or other metal object, bridge the two electrical posts/connectors picture below. The little one will be the spade connector, (that is the start signal wire), unplug that connector so you can make this connection. Once the engine fires, remove that connection. REmove power to the dizzy/coil to kill the engine. Hope that helps, Paul
  15. Here's another Turbo inline 6 BMW M50 powered Volvo showing off;
  16. Bump. There is something about the inline 6 cylinder engine that just feels right in the S-30 Z cars. The sound, feel, give and overall character of the inline 6 just fits so nice. The original L6 is a sweetheart power plant, simple durable and reliable. The more modern twin cam RB’s and JZ typically harder with comparable mods, yet keep the that inline 6 character and feel of the original Z. I am surprised we don’t see more German inline 6 powered Z cars?! MAG58 beats the Merc 6 drum, it is proven performer and plentiful, the BMW engines are also just as capable, and as or more plentiful and just as capable in N/A or boosted trim as the Japanese twin cam inline 6’s. One aspect that in my mind makes them more attractive than say the RB and JZ as a possible swap option is these German engines were not only used in production cars offered here in the states, but they there are LOTS of them! That means maintenance parts are easy to get being available over the parts counter locally, and there is lots aftermarket support as well for the guys wanting go further N/A or boosted. This well known 1000+HP BMW inline 6 is one example; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOOiQrk-ikA 8.83 seconds @ 157.6 MPH!
  17. Mongo, Thanks for coming out, was nice to see you and your son again. Sorry I wasn't able to help as much as I'd like, I promised my wife that I'd bring up some firewood and start a fire for her this afternoon, she wasn't feeling to well. Sounds like Ron was able to get the timing curve sorted out for you. LOVE those wheels on your car. That exhaust note and those wheels with those flares gives your car a very menacing, purposeful, supercar-eater appearance.
  18. Good work on the cold start injector. Sounds more and more like the BCDD. Something I have found that that helps in diagnosing or pinpointing where a noise is coming from is a mechanics stethoscope, even the cheapo's from Harbor Freight Tools work great. Using the probe on the suspect item or removing the probe and letting the open tube act like a directional microphone of sorts, helps to pinpoint where a noise is coming from. Keep us posted on waht you find or if have any more questions. progress
  19. Being as the cold start injector doesn't make any sort of noise other than one click when it is activated and another click when it is shut off, other than that it makes no real noise, so what sort of noise are you trying describe? A hissing noise? If so, that is most likely a vacuum leak, which will make a noise, especially at lower throttle settings/idle, and will affect how the car runs while making that noise, i.e. engine breathing air that was measured by the AFM so the proper amount of fuel to combined with it. If the noise is chattering clicking noise, especially in the neighborhood of 2000 RPM, check the B.C.C.D., put your hand it to see if you can feel it chattering. The BCCD that is the doohickey apparatus on the bottom of the your throttle body. If it is not operating correctly it could chatter and will cause the RPMS to hang at 2000 RPM for extended periods, etc. As for your cold start injector, move on, quit messing/diagnosing it, that is not your problem. Unplug your cold start injector and forget about it for the rest of your cars life. Better yet, remove it, cap the hole it use to fill and plug the fuel line feeding it. It is a useless injector that sometimes leaks. I have NEVER in ALL the umpteen cold start injectors I have removed from mine, friends and customer Z cars cars since the late '80's (probably as much as 100 or more), from stock to modified Z cars, had an issue that would be resolved if the cold start injector was still there! At the south pole, it might be of use, in most of the continental US within the outside temp ranges a sports car would be driven, it is useless.
  20. Dusto, It is apparent in your posting style that you have not read the forum rules or the "Read me first" stickyed in the new members section. To help make your transition into HybridZ population a smooth one and to help keep the HBZ staff form coming down on you for violating forum policy, please take the time to read the links in this link; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/63821-read-me-first-please/ Back on topic. hoov gave some excellent advice regarding the L28, TB's, cams withe EFI, etc. Thanks hoov. Here is good read on larger TB's; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/54034-big-throttle-bodies-why/ This forum has been around since early 2000, dedicated to Extreme performance Z car modifications, mods that yield actual performance gains, not faux performance for the sole purpose of trying enhance ones image in the mall parking lot or car shows, (there's plenty of other dedicated to posers/ricers, this is not one of them). There are more than few threads dedicated to "bang for the buck mods on a budget" for the L28 that yield results, not just bling when the hood is open. That info is all here, the search engine is your friend. Hope that helps and welcome to HybridZ.
  21. Sarcastic? Were you trying to be? Any how, just wasn't sure if you were aware they were still available new for reasonable prices. Every once in a while someone will post their JTR kit, or parts of it for sale. I think Mongo510 had some JTR bits for sale recently... Not sure exactly which bits they were though, might look through his for sale posts, he may still have them.
×
×
  • Create New...