BRAAP

Very impressive! That is friggen fast for a stock body Z and N/A L6 power. Engine is making some serious N/A power!

:lmao: :lmao:

LOVED my Amiga 500! Commodore 64 before that.

Safari and I think I.E. also spell check, (red squiggles) when linked to MS Word.

Quick update and info on the GM Fuel tank pressure sensor. Wiring is approx 95% complete, only couple connections to make, prime the oil system with the remote oil primer then fire it up. In short, you must use the GM fuel tank pressure sensor with GM PCM to control the BMW evap canister vent and either the BMW or GM canister purge valve and you can NOT use a GM MAP sensor as fuel tank pressure sensor. Specifics for us geeks; Using and old PC power supply with its 5 volt DC power source I was able to test a GM fuel tank pressure sensor and the BMW fuel tank pressure sensor to see if the BMW sensor could be retained. In short, NO, it cannot be used with GM PCM. The BMW pressure sensor and GM fuel tank pressure sensor are reversed in their Voltage-to-pressure readings so it will not work properly. In using the GM PCM to control the evap canister and fuel tank purge valves, you must also use the GM fuel tank pressure sensor. Also, you can NOT use a GM MAP sensor for this purpose. I have seen information on the net saying the GM MAP and GM Fuel Pressure sensor are the same, that is incorrect! Those claims are guesses, NOT tested or measured. After testing them side by side, (applying 5 volt and ground, measuring the signal while applying vacuum and pressure), they are not even close! They may look sort of similar, even have the same sealing grommet, but they are NOT the same nor interchangeable. GM MAP sensors; Testing the GM MAP sensors, my findings matched exactly what is found online. Registers atmospheric pressure and below i.e. vacuum. At atmospheric pressure, (WOT or engine off), voltage is 5 volt. Pull 5" of vacuum on the MAP sensor and the voltage drops to 4v. Pull another 5", (10" of vacuum total), voltage drops to 3 v. Pull another 5", (15" total), voltage drops to 2v. Pull another 5" of vacuum, (20" inches of vacuum total) and the voltage drops to 1v. GM Fuel tank pressure sensor; The fuel tank pressure sensor visually looks sort of similar to the MAP, has the same silicone sealing grommet but the MAP connector will not fit. For what it's worth, the crank position and Cam position sensor connector does fit the fuel tank pressure sensor. This sensor also registers pressure above atmospheric, but only barely and is MUCH more sensitive registering minute pressures below and above atmospheric i.e. vacuum and pressure. Of greater importance is its voltage to pressure values are reverse of the MAP sensor. At atmospheric pressure, the fuel tank pressure sensor delivers 1.5 volts. As vacuum is applied, voltage rise is linear to 5 volts at approx. 1” or 2" of vacuum. My vacuum gauge is not accurate enough at that low of vacuum for an accurate measurement. Using your mouth you can easily max out the sensor with light suction or light pressure. Blow into it the voltage continues to drop below 1.5 down to minimum of .23v, I guess that to be pressure to be approx. 1-2 inches of pressure, not even half a PSI. Just blowing across the opening the voltage swings, this sensor is very sensitive.

Highly unlikely to almost impossible. You can beat on one side of the valve seat all you want, that wont dislodge a properly installed valve seat. 99.9% positive the seat fell out and that is what bent the valve as the piston tried to help reinsert the valve seat using the valve as its drift, so to speak, not the other way around.

Wanting a power supply for bench testing all things automotive, mostly EFI stuff, a 12v and 5v power supply is quite handy. Old PC power supplies are perfect for this, stable 12v in the 15-20 amp range, 5 v in the 20-35 amp range, PLENTY of power for bench testing sensors, powering up ECU's etc. A couple years back I purchased an old PC power supply for dirt cheap to do just that. I am to point now that I could really use a 5 volt power supply to test the '97 BMW M3 fuel tank pressure sensor to see if it has the same voltage-to-pressure scale as the GM version for the LSx conversion. If so, I can just use the BMW sensor, otherwise need to swap out for the GM unit, can't seem to find the values for the BMW sensor anywhere so must test it myself. Any how, went to set up my power supply and it wan't quite working. It makes a buzzing sound, an external CPU fan attached to the wire bundle tries to spin, and even when I hook up a light bulb to load it, it just barely glows. No mater what I do, the 12v side puts out only 2.63v, the 5v side only puts out 2.37v. Bad power supply. This bring us to my first PC, originally a DOS machine, then Winders 3.1, has been in storage for 10 years now, not powered up for at least that long. Knowing I will never use it again, dug it out, plugged it in and it fired right up, woo-hoo, god power supply. Brought back lots of memories from the mid '90's surfing via dial up scrounging what very little info on the net there was on the Z cars. Had one of those "wow, I am getting old" moments chuckling at my attempt to visually customize the PC. Thinking back to not having the readily available information we have now the forums and dedicated sites etc, made me think how all these kids now days would get along without the internet and all this instant communication and access to almost anything information they need? We earned the info we found back then, now days these kids expect the info to be spoon fed to them with no respect or care for how that information was obtained so they could have it! I digress... Then pulled the cover off and harvested the power supply.

There is no way to predict if a seat is going to fall out, unless the head is cracked between the seats which could relax the press fit on the seat, or the head is a pre '76 with OE soft intake seats, which have a tendency to just fall out. Being as this head is post '79, best guess is; 1) Head is cracked between the seats and the added heat of 400-500 HP expanded the head material enough to release its grip on the seat. 2) That seat was replaced at some point in the past and the shop that did the seat R&R didn't' have enough interference between the seat pocket and seat, so with added heat of 400+ HP, the sat fell out. 3) Enough heat from mild-moderate detonation was absorbed by the head quickly enough that the casting grew enough to relax its squeeze on the seat, allowing it to fall out. (small sharp spikes in dyno plot are sometimes a sign of inaudible detonation. If the dyno operator set the "smoothing" scale with enough resolution to show such). Or some combination of the above.

Thank you gents, greatly appreciated. ..... And it's dogZhuge Birthday today!

Is that better?

Thanks guys, plan to spend the day finishing up the wiring on the LSx M3... Actually, we have a 10 yard pile-O-dirt with your name all over it. Seriously, we hope you and you are lovely family can make it down again, maybe RTz wil be around next time and you can move that dirt pile from one end of the property to the other. I know I got that picture here somewhere... :lmao:

Better yet if he builds a CF intake for that 240 HP N/A 3.2L. (should be upwards of 260 with the other BMW intake, unchoked exhaust, and no compromise tune of the aftermarket EFI).

Put another way, your actions/reactions teach others how to treat you. With that, a newb can either own his behavior/post/attitude, or cry burt hurt which in the real world of face to face interaction is generally not tolerated, same goes for this forum. Come to this forum behaving like child, they'll treated as such. Just because the age of digital communication is upon us does not mean it is acceptable to behave in a manner that we wouldn't normally behave, in face to face group sessions.

And this forums good people said... AMEN!

And this forums good people said... AMEN!

So the 6 cylinder version is the same, bore/stroke, chambers/ports/valve-train, injection etc as that 5 cylinder? If so, bring on the 6

Ran across this awesome Merc Diesel destined for a BMW E21. Would make for a nice Z powerplant. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1540777 Putting down 530 HP in a Merc chassis;

Mike, If the ad in question is illegal, grossly misleading, then please bring your concerns of the offending ad to staff with as much detail as possible. do NOT attempt to expose a malicious ad on your own, that is trolling and this forum has little tolerance for trolls. We were informed that your intent was not as a prospective buyer, but a heckler following said member from another forum to "troll" his ad here. Again, if the ad is grossly misleading or illegal, bring it the attention of staff. If you don't like what the seller is selling, his listed price, etc, you are in no way obligated to purchase the item, leave it be.

Moved to the appropriate section Yellow pages and/or google are your friend here. Look under "Speedometer service".

Any OE replacement gasket over the counter from any parts store that sells gaskets, NISSAN, Felpro, etc are all 1mm, (give or take couple .001") unless you are looking for something elese in particular. Hope that helps.

75 or newer US MARKET head! I have an unmolested N42 from a 77 Nissan Cedric that does NOT have the EFI bolt pattern, or notches! And I pulled the engine myself (30C 95% R/H bought for 2 50# bags of Rice and a Half Gallon of Whiskey) from the Cedric where I was able to review the service records of the vehicle. It was all original, unmolested, 42,000 Km Automatic! Another thing to watch for when using carbs on an EFI head is that some of those large EFI bolt holes seem to have been tapped a bit too exuberantly, and bored a tad deep---resulting in a terribly pesky oil leak that will have you scratching your head as to how the hell you can seal your valve cover to stop it...but you won't! It's coming from the *(&%*&%$ intake manifold bolt hole! RTV works wonders in this instance. Oops... Thanks for catching that Tony. I recall getting bit on that a few years back with the welded chamber N42 race head we built documented in the "Custom Cylinder head building.. What’s involved…" thread. Turned out to be a JDM N42, no EFI intake bolt holes or injector slots.

NiCO forums has extensive info regarding the Q45 and VH45DE and what years have what options etc. I'll toss you a bone and answer your question, but only this once. On this forum, per our rules and guidelines, (rule #2), cel phone or not, members are expected to utilize the search function! '90-'96 Q came the 4.5L VH45DE. VVT was deleted on the '96 model and was also OBD-II. Contrary to intenrt myth, the VVT delete did NOT affect the peak HP of that engine. That is a bunch of speculation from those who "think" VVT only affected the upper RPM range and have no data to support their claim. my completely bone stock 150,000 mile '96 Q45 with an old dirty stock air filter put down over 240 HP to the wheels at Torque Freaks through the auto trans, as much to the wheels as some of those false claims state the engine made at the crank! What deleting the VVT did affect was the lower RPM torque. The 96 was just tad bit less torquey below 4000 RPM, barely noticeable seat of the pants, but it was there and could be felt in back to back driving comparison. '90-'95, torque was flat. '96, at 4000 rpm it come on hard and runs the same torque/power curve from there up to redline as the '90-'95. '97- up to I think it '01 or '02, was the 4.1L VH41DE, VVT was brought back. Stock, the 4.1 was down a little on power compared the 4.5L. Really boils down to if want 4.5L or 4.1L or going to be build some hybrid VH monster as discussed on NiCO. Hope that helps.

As Pyro stated, that is the Maxima N47, aka MN47. It is nothing like the P90 or P79 heads, chamber is much different offering more squish than the P90 and P79, also has shallow chambers with the same length valves as the E31, E88, N42 and Z car N47 head. P79 and P90 use much shorter length valves length due to their deeper chambers. Also has smaller intake valves, as you already stated, and smaller intake runners with very pronounced "D" shape starting approx 1" in from the manifold mating surface. I would NOT use the MN47 head on a Turbo L28 with any off the shelf pistons! Even with dished pistons, the compression ratio will be too high and it will detonate, popping your head gasket or worse. Unshrouding the valves will only removes 2cc if done correctly, 3cc if you take it too far or start to remove some of the squish pad, (at that point, just use the N42, it already has larger intake valves, larger intake runner and no liners in the exhaust), and that is still not enough to drop the comp ratio down to safe boostable levels. If you are going to have custom forged pistons manufactured, you could have them made with a "D" dish to match the chamber of the N47 making use of the squish and get the comp ratio down to a boostable level, not a cheap option, cause you'll want the larger intake valve, extensive intake port porting, etc. to get the most out of it. Don't despair, that head does have value to the N/A crowd, and easily worth a straight-across trade for a good P90 head, (at least here in the states), which if this were my project, is what I would do if I had that head and were building a Boosted L28.

The rims alone weigh 30-31 lbs?! Heavy pigs, OUCH! I think the factory alloy wheels on my wifes '01 Suburban are lighter than that! Wonder how'd they look on a Z.

Thank you. I think that is a great idea, it has been discussed before but, I don't recall to what degree though. Not sure how well it would work, larger cross sectional area, softer spring to maintain similar travel for given air flows?.... Removing the AFM from the air stream all together would be ideal, so getting as close to that ideal without affecting drivability is a good thing. I recall someone offering an interface that allows the AFM to be replaced with MAF. That should help on several levels. Sorry I don't have any thing concrete on that.