BRAAP

Ron tossed me the keys to his Z this afternoon, was a nice treat driving my old S52 again. Impression, WOW! it was impressive in the 3300 lb M3, this engine in approximate 800 lb lighter S30, larger intake, freer flowing exhaust, what a blast to drive. A hybrid Z that retains all the sounds and character of the inline 6 cylinder with the power of a mild V8 or mild boost turbo without the lag or any weight penalty, makes for a fast and incredibly fun to drive S30. If I build another S30, this is the powerplant I will use. Nice job Ron and thanks for letting me flog your Z.Â

As BOOSTDZ mentioned, are you sure it's the ECU? If it is, what year? 75-77 have their own pinout, '78 is a differnt pin out, '79+ is different yet? The Ecu is matched to the harness which changed over the years.

I recall watching those F-1 races in the late '80's early '90's. Senna was the master. Great tribute, thank you for sharing.

Wherever you got the advice of using P79 valves in an MN47 head, be wary of taking any more advice from that source. Yes the P79 valves have a larger head diameter at 1.73", but they are also much shorter in length, bad advice when there is another valve readily available with the same larger 1.73" head diameter, same cost, and its the same length as the MN47. The N42/N47 valves, same 1.73" diameter and same stem length as the MN47. 2eighTZ4me covered the MN47 vs P-series head.

For what are looking at, ECM and PCM are interchangeable. ECM stands for Electronic Control Module, GM likes to give their ECM it's own specific name, PCM which stands for Power-train Control Module. If you are planning to wire this yourself, wanting to learn how and why you'll keep or delete certain sensors, be prepared for TONS of research, on order of 200+ hours of research alone. As for which sensors to keep, delete, etc? As iron man mentioned, you'll keep most of those, most likely delete the two rear O2 sensors but keep the forward two O2 sensors, VATS delete, skip shift delete, depending on the evap system you plan to run if any at all, have the tach set for whatever tach you plan to run, have the tuner set your gearing and tire size in the software, etc. If you don't have the time or want to learn it that badly, there are a bunch of companies offering relatively easy plug and play harness and PCM packages for all the LSx power plants. Some you'll answer a series of questions that will help them set up the PCM programming and wiring harness to better match your conversion requirements. Hopefully HBZ member CABLE will chime in, he is quite savvy with the LSx. Hope that helps, Paul

All threads on the LSx engines are metric, no SAE threads naywhere. The LSx oil pressure sender is 16x1.5mm. I don't know the threads for the JCI adaptor, sorry.

Headers arrived, excellent quality and fit very well. 1 3/4" long tube mild steel, 3” V-band flange. Excellent clearance between the #7 primary and Mercedes booster as well as the stock BMW steering shaft. Taking them down to Finish-line coatings here in Portland on Monday for their Turbo-Black ceramic. Now with headers here, mounts can be finalized, trans X-member designed and built around the GM F-bod LS1 trans isolator, heater hose/pipe routed, final fuel line routing into the engine bay, etc. Here are some shots of the soon to be released JTR E36 LSx long tube mild steel headers.

One of many bug in this forum software. The Vote is supposed to be once per day but once you vote, that's it, wont let you vote again at all, even for staff. On the list of bugs, this one is towards the bottom, probably wont get resolved for some time if at all.

Great pics. Dizzy quill shaft is 180 degrees out, crank-cam is most likely fine. Either of these 2 solutions will spark the plug at the correct time;

***edit*** Leon beat me to it.. Sounds like you are seeing this all wrong. Your cam and crank are fine! Does your plug wiring match this picture? a) If this matches your plug wiring and your rotor is pointing to the #1 in the picture with #1 piston is at TDC and #1 cylinder cam lobes facing down, then your plug wires are just clocked incorrectly on the cap, re clock the wires on the cap and enjoy. b) If with rotor is pointing to towards the firewall with #1 at TDC, #1 cam lobes pointing down, then your dizzy is 180 degrees out, NOT your cam or crank! If the answer is b), you have two options. Start out by getting #1 cylinder at TDC firing stroke by rotating your crankshaft 360 degrees, (one full revolution). That will keep #1 at TDC and your cam lobes up indicating TDC of the compression/firing stroke, (the point from which all timed aspects of the engine are referenced in most if not all shop manuals). 1) Just rewire the plug wires on the cap 180 degrees out, i.e. #1 at the #6 position, and so forth. It wont match the service manual, but it fire the correct cylinder at the correct time, the engine wont know the difference, only you or anyone else that works on the car. 2) Remove the oil pump and drop the dizzy drive shaft/quill shaft. Reinstall the quill shaft orientated properly per the service manual lining up the dots.

2 possible scenarios here. 1) If the camshaft is 180 degrees out from the crank, it is fine. If #1 piston is at TDC, and the cam lobes are pointing down when they should be point up, or vice versa, then just rotate the crank one full revolution (360 degrees) then the cam will have rotated 180 degrees and the #1 piston will return to TDC just as before. 2) Now if the crank is 180 degrees out from the cam, (90 degrees of cam rotation), then you may have big problems when the head was bolted on with rockers in place or if the crank was rotated as valves could have contacted pistons bending those valves, (L-series is an interference engine). If #2 is the your scenario, need to verify no valves are bent, then with the rockers removed clock the cam to the correct position using whatever service manual you have handy, then reinstall the rockers, readjust valves, etc. Side note, be sure to read the forum rules linked in the upper right corner of the page, this forum has a few rules not common to most car forums, one being capitalization is expected.

Excessive voltage spikes can damage anything electrical if high enough and long enough. If your car is still using the pre '78 external voltage regulator, that most likely is the culprit for allowing the alternator to pass more than 14 volts to the cars electrical system, I think that is probably the only way more than 14 volts could get out of the alternator, locked/malfunctioning voltage regulator.

Which LS1 pan and bits do you need, F-bod, GTO, or Vette?

Just a reminder if you haven't read the forum rules linked in the upper right corner of the page yet; As for your issue, first thing that comes to mind is possible battery shorting to the hood or fender stiffener if the battery is not tided down. The bright lights after 6k rpm, that indicates possible alternator and/or voltage regulator issue. Hope that helps, Paul

C'mon Tony, you know?... da P99 dawg.... P90 being mechanical, manually adjust valve lash. P90A being hydraulically adjusted valve lash. P99 being gas powered cycling of combustion events... ...or if you're hungry and on the run?...

From the video it does seem to have some issues but with such poor picture and audio quality and lack of any input textual input, there is absolutely NO way anyone will be able discern what is or is not taking place that should or should not be taking place within your engine bay. Fuel filter plugged, exhaust leaks, wiped out cam lobe, now oil pressure, busted pistons skirt, timing chain tensioner gone, bearings in the alternator or water pump gone, vacuum leaks, etc. Could be any of those, combination, or something totally different. Keep in mind this is HybridZ, a forum dedicated to high performance modification to Z cars, not a basic Mechanics 101 trouble shooting and diagnosing type forum, nor is this forum a replacement for a service manual and/or basic mechinical trouble shooting skills. Get a service Manual, even if its just a Haynes manual and start going through it applying some basic trouble shooting techniques. Once you've exhausted that, then come back with details and specifics or what testing you have done, results of that testing and your questions regarding those results. If basic mechanic skills are not one of your strengths then take it to a reputable shop, preferably one that is familiar with the Z car and have them look it over. Off the top of my head from that video, the noises are VERY hard to discern with the poor audio quality. The loud tapping type noise, based on frequency and when it happens vs not resembles exhaust leak at the manifold to head interface, again poor audio quality makes it hard to discern. If you suspect under the valve cover, then pull the valve cover and inspect the cam lobes, rockers valve springs etc for anything abnormal. While the cover is off, verify valve lash, (covered in your service manual). Hope that helps.

He is and they are mirrored, problem is John buys them are mirrored on the inside...

As the rules state, this forum fully supports "form following function", Performance first, cosmetics second. (objective first, subjective second). What this forum does not support is "function following form". If a modification that matches or enhances the performance of the car over/beyond stock, also brings with it some cosmetic benefits, that is what HybridZ is about as can be seen and read throughout this forum since it started over 10 years ago. But if a modification degrades the performance of the car and/or is a safety hazard in it's intended usage or is a modification soley for acquiring attention with no performance gain or is for art only, that's not what HybridZ is. Lowering a car to intentionally drag the frame rails is not a performance upgrade/enhancement! Stretching a narrow tire on a wide rim is not a performance enhancement that improves lap times, ETs, MPG, etc and is seen as a degradation of the tires designed safety limits. Until it can be objectively proven otherwise that such modifications do enhance the performance of a sports car, that is the "stance" HybridZ takes on this topic.

Then why on earth would you make the comment that you have more to share if you genuinely don't give a....? I wouldn't be so sure that, comments like this and your stay on this island may be much shorter than you think. Staff sees that you display blatant selfish disrespect for others elsewhere on this forum including the chat room, (some might call that being a hater). Two way street here, you've got to give to receive, not expect to receive, then give.

Tony, I’m merely theorizing here, but after reading your input here, (good stuff by the way), I have inferred that for carbs or EFI being injected way upstream before the butterfly, that this as cast ridge/step at the manifold to head mating surface is aiding even further atomization beyond what is achieved at the venturi or injector nozzle due the drastic velocity/pressure change across that step, therefore realizing more efficiency, drivability, and power due to more thoroughly atomized fuel? (which would support injecting fuel at the port close to the valve means that step has less importance?) Would that be accurate or am I chasing mythical creatures?

Saw you posted and thought you were being genuine in what you said and actually wanted to share the upgrades to your car, just figured it would be nice to let you know that info would be welcomed. If your intent wasn't genuine, I'm not sure I understand why you even bothered with such a post? In short, if you have something to share and want to let us know that then share it, don't waste our time.

ezzzzz's links should cover you. Here is another I found extremely helpful; http://chevythunder.com/cruise_control_system.htm

PontiacKid, I agree, it is too bad your build thread is in the shed, though it was for a reason. Without getting too deep into it, your thread has some wonderful and valuable tech info that has benefited many, thank you for that. It was for that reason the thread was only moved to the shed vs deleted. It was moved because some of the modifications performed to your car and showcased were modifications that are not aligned with HybridZ philosophy, (frame rails dragging the ground on purpose, aggressively stretched tires, etc), which will be met with strong opposition from the “objective performance first” mindset of this forum. Those mods do fill another niche that has a strong following with many other sites dedicated to such, sorry HybridZ is not one of those. Please feel free to start up a new build thread to show case your car, there is a lot bout your car to share that is aligned with the HybridZ bent towards sports car modification, all we ask is that the main focus be the performance enhancements, not so much the extreme stance mods/appearance.

Absolutely correct. Though if you have access to an early set of cam towers with the spray you can simply swap the early towers for the late and run an early cam, or run a late internally oiled along with the early towers and spray bar.

I for one am not one to be critical of others grammar, my wife is always picking my writing apart, though I am critical of laziness. Not capitalizing or punctuating or using IM text shortcuts comes across as selfish and lazy. We maintain this forum with regard, a little bit of dignity. We're not elite, far from it actually, but is it too much to ask that member communicate in a semi professional manner, not sound look like a bunch mall rats? Were not asking for college level grammar here, just capitalize the beginning of sentences, punctuate the end of those sentences, perform a basic proofread for gross spelling errors if your prone to poor spelling, and don't use IM text short cuts.