72zcar

yeah the o-ring for the slave, I called both the ford and the chevy dealer and they don't have them anymore. The chevy dealer sells the hose only and the ford dealer sells line with master and slave as a unit only. My v8 z has been running everyday for almost three years and never failed me and now is down for 6 days because of a little rubber seal I can't find...

I did some reserch on a Camaro forum and the are not o-rings, they are called Quad-ring seals. Still trying to find out the proper size and where I can get them.

I searched the forums for the o-ring size till my eyes fell off. Went to a couple parts store and eyeballed it but every o-ring I try is either too small inside and small outside or big outside and big inside, they leak or won't fit. I could buy the whole clutch line just to get the 0-rings but it seams like they should sell the o-rings seperate. Thanks, Stewrat

I ran across this on craigslist. What do you think? Not sure if this is a one-off or if he is making these. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/224669801.html

hmmm

I have an extra one I'm selling on ebay right now. But I should tell you that if you are thinking about using this on a v8z it will not fit under a stock hood. I had to rework the base of the hat to make mine fit. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=320000470029&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT

Thought I would share my latest upgrade. With the normal filter on top the carb it ran like a raped ape when it was cold , then when it reached temp it would loose some response in traffic. With the cold air intake all is good http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/17310145930.jpg&s=x2

anyone?

Check the freeze plug in back of the head before you take it apart. Could be leaking out the back of the head down to the bell. If it is the one in back of clutch that really sucks but do it right don't use the stopleak.

Real quick, n42 block and n42 head. new bearings, turbo rings, rebuilt head stock. Stock turbo from 84 300zx (6-8 boost). I have been reading here and other places until my eyes can't take any more. I have read felpro hg will blow with 6-8 while others have said they run it up to 20 with a felpro. Others say get a Nissan hg this is the way to go SO... just when I'm think Nissan...I think well why not get a 82-83 turbo gasket (felpro or Nissan not sure just thinking), this should solve all my problems Then I read ONLY get a gasket that matches the block (n42) because the hg may block water passages otherwise. So this takes the 82-83 turbo hg out of the equation...or does it, not sure? Don't have 150 for a copper Ok, I'm babbling... my eyes are tired, I'm confused, now wtf hg should I use

not sure but it sounds like you are talking about the slave rod? Not sure... I was asking about the master cylinder rod. Anyhow set me straight I think im confused

When i set up my 73 327/t-5 I used the stock camaro master, home made bracket and the stock camaro slave, a modified datsun brake boaster rod for the master, with a home made hose and it works well. Getting ready to convert my 72 350/th-350 to a t-5 and think this would be a lot easier... I read the post twice and just have one question. Is the stock datsun master rod used un-modified or modified? The ford f-150 rod? thanks, bob

well.. you can get the engine tranny in, take the measurements to the drive shaft shop..go home get wasted. By the time you sober up the drive shaft will be ready.

Good advice... 24 sounds a little long. My jtr 327/ t-5 is 19 3/4 inches and my msa 350/ th-350 is 21 5/8

ok thanks. What about the wt? Is 75-85 or 75-90 good? I have never seen 70 wt gear oil...

Not sure if this is in the right area but I did not see a transmission area. My wc-t5 took a crap so I found a like new nwc tranny at picknpull for 59 bucks on tranny day...looked for 3 months for a wc but settled for this. With my wc t-5 I used atf... but the nwc what should I use? I only found one thread about this on hybrid and some say atf for a nwc and others say 70 wt gear oil. When I search on the web about half say atf and the other half say gear oil and i did find one site that said 70 wt. So, im leaning towards 70 wt gear oil. When I went to the parts store they had no 70 wt, the closest gear oil they had was 75-85. Would the 75-85 be ok? So if it is 70 wt, is it 70 wt gear oil or just 70 wt oil? Thanks, bob

It's been almost 2 years since i painted mine and its still holding up. I think the trick is to have a good quality heat paint and most important is to sand them with fine sand paper ..maybe 320 grit. Clean with brake clean...then bake for 30 minutes or more at 450 BEFORE you paint to burn off any oils from your hands. So what i'm saying is if they are not clean the paint will peel and or burn off. Then handle with care taking out of oven to paint so you dont get them dirty, I carried them by sticking something in the bolt holes to the paint area. Let them cool so they are just warm then follow the instuctions on the can. I painted and baked mine four times. Read the can before you but it, some cheaper paints say let dry for 24 hrs before baking. You dont want this paint.

i second the volvo upper mounts. I used them on my 73 and worked good. I think there is pics on my web site. http://www.73zcar.50megs.com/photo3.html

"ps. "from $,918.57 to $21,529.12" <-- that is funny. Is that the price range you have found in the archeives, or did you just pull that figure out of your back hatch." It was meant to be funny..thats about it. After two v8 swaps one with msa and one with jtr and planning another... i have an idea what it takes. And yes i did pull those numbers out of my "back hatch" as you put it but at the same time i think the numbers reperesent about the least and maybe the most someone could spend. Bob

from $,918.57 to $21,529.12

He didnt sell any of his mounts. But look at what he had to say the question and answer part of the ebay auction. He is insinuating that jtr mounts fall apart.. oh yeah he should get a spell checker, sorry couldn't resist. Questions from other buyers for this listing Q: What am I getting from you that I can not get from JTR for $155 by buying the same seven pieces? Answered on Dec-26-04 A: My bracket were tested at 1500 HP 2000 foot pounds of torque and PASSED, so you can use the 1200 HP Alcahol Blown engine safely with mine, try that with anyone elses. These are available for 200 dollars shipped, but only for a month and 12 mnore days, then I go back to the 500 dollar price I was selling them for in 2003. SO THINK!, the time you are putting into your Z, then think about how much you are willing to spend to make sure it dosent fall apart, I would EASILY spend 300 more to know I buying the VERY best, VERY strongest, and its nice to know that I am getting them straight from the the actual Maker, I am someone who knows what I am talking about from experience, My brackets are the Best out there I have ever seen and used, I have 150 cutomers that would agree, especialluy the ones that Bought Mine to replace the ones that broke on them, but I cant tell you the seller of those Brackets, I would get sued. For now its 200 shipped, in 42 days it goes to 500 shipped. thanks Josh

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7942784731&category=6763 This guy is selling JTR mounts with tranny mount on ebay. Can he legaly do this? JTR has a patent on these mounts correct? If he were just selling an extra set this would be one thing put he has 50 sets! Whats next copy the book and sell that on ebay too? Anyhow thought I would give mikejtr a heads-up ....

get a good set of universal plug wires. They come extra long and u cut and crimp on ends to whatever lenth you want. Get a good set of wire looms so u can get it right the first time. Go one at a time and u should be ok. Also, most electronic type distributors wont work with the cheap solid core wires, u will need spiral core type wires most likely, check with your dist. manufacturer for type of wire you need. someone else want to comment on the mallory- bosch thing?

have you put a timing light on it when its running?

leave the dude alone..he spent 4 yrs installing the 4.3... does sound like the timing in off...how did u check that you are on the compression stoke..finger over the spark plug hole trick? sometime this way is difficult to tell..best way is to pop the valve cover and watch the rockers on #1 cylinder. After the intake rocker opens and closes then continue turning until its on factory specs (might be 8 btdc not sure look it up) then point the rotor directly at #1..i mean right on it and it should fire. Compression does seem way low but it should start.