72zcar

Dan Juday I can post pics of the camaro master and bracket..but first I want to make it work..haha

when the slave is installed and the pin is on the fork it can be pushed back into the slave about 3/4 to 7/8 of an inch before it bottoms out. why is this, its the same slave that came with the camaro type bell and tranny, the only thing that is not original is the flywheel. I did not measure it but from memory and by looking at the flywheel that came with the tranny i think it is thinner. I think this is what is causing the problem. If i get a longer pin it may work but the angle will change and the fork may even go full travel before the disc disengages..

re-read my post if u have time.. what i am saying is the slave is mostly already extended so it can not go much more. nothing leaks and we bled till we are pretty confident the is no air.

info: 68 327, 89 t-5, after-market 16 pound flywheel, "special" disc with smaller spring so they don't hit flywheel bolts, camaro slave, camaro master. problem: Installed in car with fabed mount to hold camaro slave in right location to get full travel of piston in master. Does not work at all. Bled for days..still does not work. Took whole thing out of z..put on the bench with all lines connected it works good..push on master and slave moves at least 1 inch with no problem... but back in car moves only 1/8 inch. Hmmm: we think after all day of this may have figured it out...tell me if I am right........16# flywheel is thiner therefore allowing p-plate to be forward and of course then the t-out bearing is more forward making the fork pivot forward. Now the outside part of fork is already moved some..so the piston in slave is pushed out already. if buddy hold fork back with hand from under z when i step on pedal it gets pedal and pushes fork forward with force. Have any of you guys had this prob when using a light flywheel? would extending the slave rod fix prob? Am I insane?

datsunlover, thanks for the info but we put three different starters on it and they all do the same thing. One was brand new...bob

motor is L28..stock Ok I have a starter that goes "zing" (turns) but does not thrust forward. Have to try it a few times before it engages the flywheel. And its getting worse. It does not grind..just a kinda quiet zing..zing zing then it starts. Have put in three different starters and they do the same thing. This all started when we put in a different motor out of a auto z, we used the old flywheel, old starter, new pilot bushing. Z never did this before with old motor. thanks bob

ordered the flywheel cover same part number 10241153 from gmpartsdirect.com for 11 bucks with shipping..not too bad thanks all

thanks wheelman and miles Miles, you bought the shield for same year as the t-5..1986?

I am using a 89 camaro bell the tilts it 15 degrees to the passanger side also. Pretty sure a t-5 and now t-56 shield will bolt to the bell but will have to be modified to fit the eary block up around the crank but not positive...anyone? Before I install all the bolt on stuff i want to make sure...this half dust shield can be put on with the engine and tranny bolted together and in the car correct? thanks

Finally have my 68 327/1989 wc T-5 installed where I want it in my 73 240z after putting it in and taking it out 5 times. Stupid misprint in jtr book. I may have made another mistake forcing me to pull the motor/tranny again... I did not put on the dust shield between the t-5 tranny and motor behind the flywheel. I am including a link to a pic of the reason why i did this. I think (thats what i get for thinking) the t-5 has only a lower dust shield not a whole one the goes behind the entire block. Am i wrong? maybe its a two piece? I have searched and cant figure this out. In the pic the upper shield is for a 86-92. http://garage-scene.home.att.net/images/A_dust_shield.jpg If I am right and it only requires the lower shield for a t-5 would a dusty land shield from a post 85 camaro work with my 89 t-5 and my 68 327 block? Hopefully it only requires the lower shield and can be put on with the motor tranny in the car? thanks again..bob

yeah i was just looking at that, now i can see that the misprint is on 2-3 and how 6 hole setback plate will lower the driverside and even everything up. thanks wheelman and tim

ok guys there is a a missprint...both setback plate on pages 2-2 and 2-3 say passanger..so I looked at the first on and never read the second on page 2-3...hmm so now i see that the missprint is on page 2-2...it says passanger but should say driver. Also on page 2-4 it says the motor mount has to be cut back to clear the bolt on the setback plate that shares a bolt (5 holes not 6)...well i put this on the passanger side even though it says to put it drivers because I am still following the instructions on page 2-2 that has the error...omfg I allready mounted the tranny jtr mount..after i fix this I hope the holes in the floorboard still match up! ya know..jtr should mail out heads up corrections to there customers!!!

tim..are u kidding me? The book has a missprint? omfg..are you talking about pages 2-2 ans 2-3? I dont think thats can be, dont think they can even be mounted on the opposite side..hmmm oh my god you are right! it calls the mount that shares a bolt the passanger side but then goes on to say that it uses the 2.25 bigger spacer..

I went home at lunch and compared my mounts to the jtr book and all seems correct. But the passanger side valve cover is about 1 1/2 inches lower with a level across them. Click below for pics the click on JTR MOUNTS http://www.73zcar.50megs.com/ then click on "jtr mounts"

Im going home and put a level accross the valve covers.. but just eyeballing it its obvious the the driverside v-cover is higher than the pass side..wonder what i did wrong? I have the jtr book the jtr mounts and put them on as the book shows... I have nion saying tilted towards pass side it right and tim says no tilt at all no way ...now im confused all the way

You have your spacers on the wrong sides...I did the same thing...the larger spacer should be on the driver's side..... I have the large spacer on the driverside tim so I think its ok...but the I read what nion said Nion, did u mean to say tilted towards passanger side?

got the 327/ wct-5 in and mounted. The motor is turned counter clockwise (looking from the front) a few degees, the drivers valve cover is maybe two inches higher the the passanger side valve cover... is the normal? I am pretty sure I have the mounts correct. Two sets of headers and none fit... thanks bob

thats really good info ... but what if the motor is completely disassembled..how now?

Can someone post exactly how to tell a 327 from a 350 please. Do you measure the rods..crank? How? I have a 350 crate motor in my 72.. a 327 (a real one #3914660) in my 73 but i also have on a stand a 3970010 350 in my garage. I have always assumed it was a 350..but it did have a factory 4 barrel manifold on it with large secondaries so now I'm wondering..

Ok, but it wouldn't hurt to look the numbers up to make sure its not a 307

http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm look the numbers up... the block number will be on the drivers side near firewall would be and the head numbers will be inside under valve cover. If its a 67 vette motor the block number may be 3892657..here is some info bout 67 vette block and head numbers. http://corvetteactioncenter.com/specs/1967/67id.html Bob

I ordered ARP flywheel bolts...get them tomorrow. A local speed shop said the APR (automotive racing products) flywheel bolts have thin heads and may clear the bolts..we shall see. If not I will have no choice but to buy a new disc that has the 8 smaller diameter springs

I did a test fit yesterday with engine only and the engine is very far back touching the brake lines. strange how some have said they moved it back 3/4 of an inch and others say its already back as far as it will go... are the z different or are the blocks different? or maybe the mounts are different..hmmm I really dont think i could slot them enough to get the hei in.. maybe but it would be tight. and on a different note, not trying to change the thread but this is kinda related. Tried to mount the clutch to the flywheel but the clutch disk springs hit the bolts that hold the flywheel on. this is a 16 lb after-market steel flywheel. I tried grinding down the bolt heads but had to get them very thin and they just cleared by a cunt hair.. so #1 now i don't trust the bolts and #2 as soon as the disk wears down a little the bolts will touch the springs...hmmm

yeah thats what i figured..but i have read and read the post on this and some say they move it back w/hei while others have said they had to move the motor forward to make the hei fit.. guess its trial and error. anyone else have probs making the hei fit?

The jtr books says to slot the holes in the (cant rtemember what they are called and books at home) things where the motor mounts bolt to something like 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch... How many of u guys did this? I have a HEI distributor and a 73z. This is my second swap but the first was msa kit. I was thinking that it might not even be needed but not sure..thanks, bob Oh yeah.327 t-5