ZZZero

No, I did not set the air gag. Nor do I Know what air gag is. Would you mind explaining?

The car is a 87' 300zx n/a 5 spd. The problem I'm having is I went out to my car recently, and it would not start. After Finding out I had no spark I started replacing components of the ignition system one at a time. I first replaced the cap and rotor,due to both of them looking extremely nasty and ate up. Still no spark. I next Replaced the coil,with a known good coil. Still no spark. Next I replaced (what i believe to be) the crank position sensor in the distributor. Well-ah! the car started idle,and revved fine sitting still. I proceeded to drive around the block. I made it to my neighbors driveway, where the engine died and the car would not start again. After having him help me push it home,I double checked my work, to insure the lack of spark wasn't something i foolishly caused. I found no problems,and I am willing to bet the sensor has failed again. Anyone here have any similar problems like this? or any troubleshooting pointers for me to follow?

If you are interested I have on of the isuzu npr intercoolers, a common upgrade to the overhead intercooler, wich I also have in case you might be interested. I was planning on dropping a 2.3 into my 84 300zx... Until it got hit by any F650 friday evening.

who else here spent turkey day working on there z? I know i cant be the only one8-)

http://www.motec.com/products/ecu/control.htm#M48 They also have wiring kits and I think sensores too. good luck!

Lsd came in the following cars (u.s.) 87-89 300zx turbo models,na cars didnt get them,and the white 88 shiro special came with a vlsd wich is Very hard to find considering there were roughly 3500 of them built!

Any bassist on here? I played bass for some time until I got a job, started off playing my uncles, then bought myself a pawn shop special, it was some sort of yamaha,I cant remember exactly, The other bass I owned was the carlo robelli 12 string bass, played mucho hard had a passive,active switch and with some distortion added in it sounded killer! Funny thing is I sould that one on ebay to buy my first z car (87 300zx n/a) But hey you gotta do what you gotta do right?

would any one here know what the blue book value would be on a pristine, condition 81 280zx? I've done a couple searches (here and on google),and havent found any direct prices.

You can bet your sweet A I wont settle for anything less than what I had! I may end up using that quote

hah Belive me the idea had crossed my mind many times but im not the kind of person to want to sqeeze every dime out of this person over something like this,ill be happy as long as I'm payed in full for the value of my car by the insurance company,and my exspenses missing work,chiropracter visits ect. I dont wanna leave this guy paying me a monthly payment when this is all over with I belive people can learn from their mistakes,and hope this guy will,

The rear side of the quarter panel is actually smashed up agianst the tire, the passenger door will probably not close if opened and the hatch will not open at all, also in 04 the previous owner had around 4900$ worth of work done to it,including but not limited to all redone stock interior,all new stock suspension and bushings,and also new chrome trim. on the reciepts for all this work one the milage show 184xxx and this work was done in 04 I havent had the car even 2 months yet,and odometer isnt even at 185xxx yet so I am hoping to be able to claim more money for the car by showing them the reciepts. I know a majoroity of the work involved to make the repairs would have to be cut and paste from a donor 280zx,but my question is after a cut and paster repair is made would the car be safe to drive?

Pics are worlking now,or they are atleast on my screen, And yes I'm alright I went to a chiropracter today and they told me I have a minor case of whiplash,but nothing that should be very long term.

Also the car now only starts, and idles at about 3-400 rpm (runs VERY rough), and does not build oil pressure,I am Praying it's something as simple as a pinched fuel line

hello all,I know I dont post on here very often, but none the less, I visit this site on a more than daily basis . Just wanted to share a recent accident I was involded in an get some opinons on the repairs. I was hit pulling into the driveway of my home, the driver of the other car was on the phone,he must of not been paying attention becuase there were no skid marks and he hit me at a good 30-40 mph.Later it was found out that he wasnt wearing his seat belt either. but beyond that,the front right of his car nailed the rear right of mine as i was turning into my drivway spinning me about 130 degrees into my yard, he then rolled into a nearby telephone pole,I was alright,but when I got to him he was laying on the ground next to his car,he was conscouis but was not very responsive to anything I said. He ened up being alright, he was just in shock from the accident. I have the feeling they will end up totaling out my car, now heres the question I came to ask,would it be worth my time to purchase this car back from the impound lot,and try to repair it? This car was my baby a pristine condition 1981 280zx n/a 5 speed. also if they are to not total it out,how can i be assured everything gets fixed on my car? a couple of things that arn't shown in these pictures is that the back left wheel(the one off the rim),well the rim now has positive camber wich i would like to hope is a severly bent rim, also what about the suspension and drivetrain? how can i be assured everything is the exact way it should be? the driver of the other car had already accepted full responsibility for the accident. but i just want to try to make sure the insurance compant doesnt try to rape me seeing how this is the first accident iver ever been in. Thanks. I hope yall can give me some pointers. TY.

How about a rear mounted bbc pushing 1500+hp,sporting 4 wheel drive?

From what I understand The flared holes might actually make the car more rigid,from side to side but not back and forth,if that makes sense, I picture it sort of like an arched bridge they can hold ridiculous amounts of weight,becuzase of their design,? would it be wrong to think of it that way?

without going over stock boost do you still think there would be a problem? (assuming maf is moved after the popoff?)

Theeretically what would happen if one were to run without a wastgate?(plugging appropriate holes,and welding a plate over the flaper door),using only a pop-off valve to control boost pressure? Wouldnt engine response increase?

Better than what they quoted me 350$ for a used diffy (not lsd).

http://www.zdocs.com/ The adress is right there on the main page. put they arnt the cheapest used parts place

I just purchased a boost guage for my 300zx and need to know if the fitting can be after the throttle body? There is already a fitting with a plug in it right after the TB and i'd rather not drill a new hole.ty

Wait,Wait,Wait,Wait,wait, F&F 1 had a story line to it?

Sorry you confused me up there with the 4.40 bore center line. I'm at school at the moment and those links are blocked by websense so i couldnt check them out. I was told though that as long as the cylinder walls are .200in thick all the way around there should'nt be any problems,with cylinder walls cracking etc, even on a turbocharged apllication? Thanks for all the info it's been VERY helpful.

The reason for wanting 8 liters,is becuase the cylinders would have a larger output of exhuast gases,more exhuast gases means a larger turbo can be pushed and more psi= more happyness. Somewhere you mentioned me using a 4.40 bore? That would be ungodly safe as the cylinder walls would be extremely thin between cylinders,I planned on going,with a 4.28in bore and a 4.250 in crank. wich would get me right at 8 liters. I have thought about the bbc route but all in all,even though higher hp numbers can be reached it seems to me that the added weight of the bb,would outweight the benefits,220lb iron bb vs the 95 lb aluminum sb? Seems like in the end you would have an overall lower power to weight ratio.I would also like my car to be able to take corners moderately,and with all the weight of a bbc that ability to control the car at speed would decrease. Unless im missing the fact that there are companies that produce aluminum bbc blocks.but I have had yet to find any.

The block I'm planning on using for my sbc conversion in my 300zx,is a aluminum dartblock,having a 4.125 in bore,and 9.5 inch deck height. Through research I have found that one can safely over bore this block to 4.250 in,without going past a .200 cylinder wall thickness.I plan on using a 4.125 stroker crank.My current goal is of literage,One way or another i would like to acheive 8 liters,first way of doing this would be to compromise cylinder wall thickness and bore the cylinders out to a whopping 4.34in,wich with the 4.125 crank would give me almost exactly 8 liters of displacement,but it would be of concern to me becuase I would like to turbo charge this engine,and would not like to be afraid of having the cylinder walls crack. On the other hand I could have a custom 4.250 in crank made and with the 4.250in bore would give me about 7.9 literes but I fear,I would have major space issues on the bottom end,and ideas? and or input? I would really like to have 8 liters,but if its not feesable then its not fessable. Edit:Actually after more searching I have found 4.250in cranks for sale,and would not have to have one custom made.So that brings me to this,with the 4.250 crank AND a 4.28 bore I will reach my 8 liter mark,but will .030in overbore really cut down on strength of the cylinder walls (walls would only be .170in thick) Thanks all.