staledale

After checking measurements on my parts car before it's torched, I found the Jag might not be that hard to do. Starter will touch the TC bracket if the engine is centered, Jag motor mounts will fall right above the stock Z's. Rad will have to move forward. Now how can I gain clearness on the TC bracket? Can the rod be straighten out alittle? I see that it is 1/4" different from one side to the other now. Now does anyone know where the crank centerline fall in line with the top of the frame rails? Bottom of pan to jag crank CL is only 5 inches. The more I look the better it will fit (not with FI). Where are the carbs??????? Need 40 IDF webers. I making my own frame rails so right now I can move things around alittle How bout Blueovals 1and1/2 inch movement of the crossframe. Is that worth it? Open for any input.

I think my brain cell stayed on duty long enough to figure out it's about 34ozs to a liter. A 1 qt of oil is .946 liter. So 10 liter of oil is about 10 qt plus 20oz. Now if all you guys can find me 6 matching webers, I would do the Jag thing. It's just sitting here. I'll fab an intake. Was going to add new frame rails to my GTO. maybe add about six inches to the wheelbase. Priced new ones and they are a bit pricy since you need 6. There has to be some used ones around. What size did the VW guys run? Help me find some.

Quit playing with my brain cell. Got one and most of the time it's out looking for a friend. Went out to check on lay out for Lone and started checking for fit again. LoneHD it is a 60 degree lay out. Now it is 36 inches long with no fan. The Z is 40 inches firewall to core support without rad. Fuel inj. is 31 side to side without air cleaners. Strut towers are 31 apart. If ya go carbs, ex manifolds are about 24- 25 inches and a little above frame rails. That would be no problem. So where can I get 6x2 webers that I can afford? It would also be tall with the webers. I've got to "just say NO" but it would sound sweet.

The Jag rear is a Dana center section, most are posi. Mine is 52 flange to flange.(what is a Z car?) Gears are out there and not all that much. Anyone with welding skills can make the mounts very simple. the lower control arm will have to be shortened also easy to fab up. Now the axles,the stock one might not be shortened, but the replacements I've seen are just small drive shafts that the local shaft shop can fab up. The u-joints are a lot bigger and heavyier then the Z's. They haul around a 5000lbs car. I'm going try one under mine. It will be a while. Just started my 250 GTO body tonite.

http://www.ontariozcar.com/zedline/2001/mayjune01/mayjune07.htm Here a site for the Jag V-12 in a Z

Got a Jag with my last Z car. I's sitting on the floor next to it. It can be done, but.......it's to heavy, to big, and way, way to expensive. Fuel inj. won't fit between shock towers, Carbs(6x2 webers) will sit ya back the price of a great sbc. I don't what to talk you out of something, but I finally talked my self out of it and I've got the whole drive train sitting here. That IRS is another story. got web sites on Jag if ya want them.

http://www.customflamepainting.com/ Here Phil, I found it. Hope it helps.

The ghost flames are done by painting your base color first, then the flame, or in your case number with a pearl paint. Pearl is transparent, and will just leave a hint of the color you want. you then clear over both, a good tape like fine line is needed so you don't get a build up on the edge. Couple coats of clear, wet sand, and more clear. Trying to find web site that has a good detailed info story on the subject, It's more for bikes but it's the same.

Hey Iron Dragon try this site, has lots of tips and sells lots of stuff www.fibreglast.com go to the info center, I didn't spell that wrong.

BAD GROUND!!!!! I work on a lot of trailers, boat,car carriers, ect. and the same problems always turned out to be a bad ground. I got my wiring manuals out but my bifocals aren't strong enought. What year Z is it? maybe be I can find the common link. Need to find my mag. glass.(LOL) Remember that every time you are sure of the problem you will find the exception to the rule. Murphy has a law to cover that.

O.K. Steelman you need a second chance. You send me pic's and info on that 250 gto and my memory will go away (LOL)

Took the battery and had it tested, tested out good. Have a ground to the intake. Brother who is a service manager at a Pont. dealer said battery can check out and still cause funny problems. Buddy showed up and I stole his batt. Guess what it was the battery just like my wife said from the start. kids had stuffed chicken breast for supper, I got crow............. Lesson to be learned. swap batterys if ones around, not that hard to do. would have saved me a lot of work and pride. Thanks guys.

Have a small starter from chevy truck. It just clicks now. I was running errands and things were fine then It just quit. Replaced the starter form Auto Zone. same thing. Tested the new one and it's fine, tested my old one and it too turned out to be good. Put new wires on, no luck. bypass the ignition with remote starer swicth and no luck. Battery on charger two days reads good and it will run the high beams, play metallica with 800 watt amp, and light the cig lighter all at the same time. my fingers are cut, arms bleeding, and my pride is bruised. what have I left out????? Took the plugs and belts off the engine and it turn easy with a 12" rachet. they checked the starter motors but there isn't a load on them. maybe try a NAPA starter? please give me some ideas Thanks Dale

Hey Dan, They gotta be the same. The MSA parts cat. lists the fenders, door skins(locks and mech inside differ) and the patch panels for the rear quarter are all the same. On the whole rear quarter there is a differance because of the bumper. So over all they are just about the same. I think the ride height change with the crashable bumpers really changed the over all looks. Hope I'm right, just going by the parts cat. Hope it helps.

hey Lenny, Sent you a pic of a g-nose with the headlites covered, Didn't know how else to sent it,so I e-mailed it to you. Hope it helps. Wish I knew who's car that is. Could you post that pic? See if anyone out there can tell me whos it is.

What materials can be used for making a plug? I'm making a rear deck, and rear fenders with flairs. They will be large pieces and cost will be a factor. Read some old posts and you guys talked about a foam, also what about some type of clay? thanks for any help. Stale

Will my 72 fenders and all of the front end fit the 77? The bumper mounts are cut off.

Went cross country to Iowa and traded my bass boat($3,295) I was selling for a GTO 250 body($4,000 plus shipping) Also got a 77 donor car, new interior, rugs, door panels, a Jag V12,tranny, and Jag IRS. Not bad for about 30hrs driving on a weekend. I want to built a coupe,and have the donor car. The donor I got has the roof and quarter panels cut,and they are rought, but the rest of the car is really, really nice. I can't see wasting it. So I,ve got to find a way to make a nice Z roadster out of it. Seen some pics, but need more how to info. Can anyone tell me who what or where on the car on this site?http://www.jps.net/zparts/showcase/wczn20/pages/00r10f23a.htm Need more (back veiw) pics. Any help is needed. SCCA Did one. I'll put a mild sbc in it, to learn my mistakes on. How can I forget? Also got a JTR manual with the deal, see why you guys talk about it. Great book. Got the Jag v12 and tranny sold for $850 Still looking at the IRS. Thanks for listening, Don't know where to Start. Any topless info would be great. need pics.

They thanks guys. Paragod any info would be helpful. How heavy is this engine. Been looking up web sites, but havn't found any good ones yet. Speedracer, where you get your wheels? I've got the fake wires on mine. They were all rusty, and I spent better part of a rainy day with steel wool neverdull and wax on them. I love that look. You 250 is what got me started in this Z thing. Love that car of yours. I saw the real ones race when I was younger. Never forget them. Thanks again for the help guys,anyone find a good v-12 site please pass it on

I'm working out a deal for a Ferrari GTO 250. If I tow my boat half way cross country for the kit and donor car he'll give me the jag v-12 and the irs he was going to use. He's a professor and is intimadated by the kit. He bought all the parts includeing the new seats,carpet, console,vinyl parts and and new dash. The Jag is heavy but I'm intriged by it. I'm not after a speed demon, just a neat looking driver with a good sound.(I've already gone 9:90 at 147 with the chute not opening and the rear wheels hopping more then a rabbit in heat. Felt the urine and other stuff in my pants as the strip came to an end.) Done with that. Think that would be a cool swap?

Tim, take a look at this web page. There is a lot of ideas here in all the cars thehttp://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/8668/index.htmy show.

Pete, how much wider, front wheel drive wheel offset wider??? I'm putting a complete frame under my Z. Might just go 12 bolt. I'm not into road courses that much. Looking for weight vs cost times easy.

Mike said the ZX TURBO rearends would be R200, cv, and rear disk, What's wrong with that? can it be swaped as a complete unit, with a few mounting changes for an early Z? Would it be worth it? thanks then agian how bout the 300zx !!!!!!! anything thing better about it ? [ July 13, 2001: Message edited by: staledale ]

Don't know my Z's yet, but dosen't the 280zx have the r200, cv joints, and the disk brake set up, that everyone talks about swapping,or do I have the wrong model?

can you swap the entire 280zx rear and supports lug nut to lug nut under a 72Z ?