staledale

The axles are only 16" long, and it came from a XJ-12 (XJS ?) I've got the GTO/Z rebody and I'm about 3 1/2" wider per side. I've got a post out to speed racer about how much offset he had to use. If I remember right, it was quite a bit. I might not need to cut it down. Nice wheels Scottie but I've got to stick with the Dayton wires. Please keep Mr. Murphy away from me, It might work without cutting! Dale

Speed, don't go pulling off any wheels on my account. Don't you also have an adapter for the knock offs? From your pictures it looks like the rear tire could go out a little more without hurting any thing, right? Here's the story. A stock Z is 53.75 wide hub to hub, my Jag rear is 62, so we've got 4 1/4 wider each side. The GTO body is what 3- 3 1/2 wider on each side? So a standard offset should be close to fitting under the fender? Not having to narrow the rear would be a little relief with all the other problems I'm getting into. Have a 65 mustang that I've stripped down for a total resto to get a little mad money. I've got the GTO in his garage and miss it. Didn't anything left to unbolt so I started cutting spotwelds. Today I started going the other way. So it won't be long till I get my goat back. Thanks Dale P.S. Do you know the man's name or e-mail address that I talked to at Carlise?

Check out this site for Jag rears. I'm not using the cradle. http://www.geocities.com/concourswest/page2.html

Hey Speed, how much offset do your rear wheels have? With the right offset, I might not have to narrow the Jag rear. Thanks Dale

NEZZIE 76 Still need hood hinges? The GTO/Z I saw at Carlisle had a very simple home made set that won't be hard to make. If you still looking for Ideas, I could draw them,scan them, then e-mail ya.

Thanks Scottie, that will get me close enough to get price on axles. The Jag rear is 62" So I'll need about 4and 1/8 inches shorter axles. The lower control arm will need the same. Just checked my gear ratio and I've got 3.36 with posi, overdrive tranny, and will run a taller tire then stock. Sure be in the ball park. Have to find some lighter springs for the four coilovers. Thanks again. Dale

No, that was the Vette rear end. Scottie worked from the outside in. I'm going the other way. Dayton has the wire wheels I want that are the right offset for the stock Z width. Just need the Jag rear to match that. Dosen't anyone know off hand what the width is?

Tried the search but couldn't find how wide a Z rear axle is. Need the total from wheel mounting to wheel mounting on the brake drums. Trying to get an idea of how much is needed to be taken off my Jag rear end. I'll get new tube axles made for it, but want an idea of how much offset I'll need for my wheels. Don't have my GTO/Z here to measure. Thanks for any help, Dale

Bellwood, Pa. just outside Altoona.

yes it does, thanks

The lower rear quarter, that raps around the inter wheelhouse. Also on a mustang I pull the seat risers off the floor and cleaned it up. I used a spot weld cutter and plan to put it back down and reweld where I cut the spots. Thanks guys

When patching a rust hole, I've always just flush fit the patch and welded it. But I'm replacing a panel that raps around another panel and then it's spot welded. What do you do to protect the bare metal between the two panels? I'm afraid of any paint,primer between the two causing the weld to be bad. Any ideas out there? thanks

O.K. try classicjaguar.com . go to update page April 15. Then scroll down to Jan 25, V-12 with webers. I will have that in the GTO.

Couldn't help sharing this site, Speedracer will like it. http://classicjaguar.com/jctl702.jpglove it.

THANKS GUYS, good sites there. Their just what I needed.

Anyone know a web site that deals with suspension grade heim joints? Thanks guys.

The 455 crank has to be cut .250 to fit the 400 block, then the 400 block has to be bored .030 with new pistons. Even if you had a 400 engine, it would be cheaper to go get a 455 to start with. Make sure your 350 pontiac is in fact a Pontiac. GM switched a lot of motors around and put about any motor into any car.

I've got what I think is a TR7 top frame. I'm going a different route on my roadster so I won't need it. The frame is all there and it moves thur it's path smoothly. Only thing is the webbing needs replaced. Have to dig it out if anyone has an interest in it.

HEY, congratulations to ZFERRARI for car of the month at Zcar.com. Way to go Zferrari. Now thats another HybridZ car on that site. Let's make that a monthly habit. Good job and nice GTO.

Sounds to me your home free, 75 is the cut off date if your in one of the county that requires testing. See Lones post. Here in central Pa. we don't need the test.(YET)

Well Speed, Dick, or Mr Goodman, not sure how you want to be addressed. My GTO is on a hold right now. The railroad found my medical history and found out I've got neck problems. They put me out of service. After MRI's last week found I've got 6 buldge disks, two that are herinated. Mean while, while being off work (past two months) I got two jobs on the side restoring 65 mustangs. Every once and a while I get to play with it. Got the body cut to fit on, wheels cut, doors cut,and I'm ready to fill in the rear 1/4 glass. That leads me to a couple of questions. How did you finish the inside of those windows? I'm puting 1x1 tubing with a slight curve at the door opening, then using sheet metal on the outside. Might double wall that and put some on the inside too. Noticed some GTO's have vents there some don't. Like to get ideas and putting some type of working vent there. Next, my VR rear tub had to be cut for the hatch, I left a little extra, that hangs in where the hatch closes. I have to trim it to get a nice fit along the hacth edge. Now what is under that? Did you close in your old tail light openings? Just trying to think about water getting in that gap and where it will go? I would love to get some pictures of your car. It's my dream. And here's a link for a v-12 http://classicjaguar.com/JUAN6.jpg Look how short the intake is. Not really the best for the H.E. engine, but it will work for me. Really need a GTO forum so we can swap idea's (that's pick your brain). There is a lot of GTO guys out there. guess this is long enough, keep in touch. Dale

Wiring harness, doors, and reenforced frame(unibody) plus the above. There is quite a bit more wiring used in the late model Z to meet both safty and smog laws. The doors have heavier beams in them, and there is reenforcements in the sub frames for the bigger bumpers. There is also a frame rail that runs the whole way back the floor that my early one dosn't have.

Hey Chris,John's manual has the reinforcement and roll bar pic's in it. Shows different ways that other guys did it. his web site has a picture of a yellow VR that has a roll bar. http://www.reactionresearch.com/velorossa.html look under gallery and click on the yellow VR. As for Dick's GTO there aren't enought of these to give him credit. I've got all his pic's everywhere it inspire me. Great car speedracer. Wish I had more pictures and I'd make a calendar for myself. Stable has tail lights that are close to the real one's, and they told me they'd fit my VR. P.S. Dick the V-12 is not dead. Still might use it.

I've got 8 1/4 inches where the lights mount on my VR body.

O.K. guys thanks