staledale
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Everything posted by staledale
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No more whinning about weak IRS's
staledale replied to Z-Dreamer's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
After rereading this thread I think Silicone Boy would need a solid rear to be legal at the track. No IRS after you get into the 10's I think. Jag had two diff center sections, a Dana, and a weaker one that I cann't think of off hand. I've got the weaker one but it will be more than enought for my project. The Dana is the same as the Vettes used, Strong but not bullet proof. Scottie put one in his turbo V6 (Vette that is) and he pounds it hard. Check out his web site on the install of the vette rear. The main reason I'm using a Jag rear is, I'm using the complete Jag drive train. -
No more whinning about weak IRS's
staledale replied to Z-Dreamer's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=2089 I think that's the link to my pictures. I not check under my profile for my gallery, for a picture of my Sunday afternoon polishing. It's not perfect, but dosen't look bad. It was the rougher then the one I still have to clean. There is a lot of deep marks and pitting from poor casting and factory grinding that are to hard to get out. The unfinished one should be a little easier to do. It would be easier to put under a Z than a 9inch ford, at least I think so. -
No more whinning about weak IRS's
staledale replied to Z-Dreamer's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Well I got my Jag rear in a package deal for about nothing, found narrowed axles and swing arms that are chrome plated just the right size on E-Bay for $200. I'll need new u-joints which are the same as Chevy and rebuild the inboard brakes. I just spent this afternoon polishing the outer carrier for the stub axle. I'll post a picture tomarrow. I'll have less than $400 in it . It's a 3:31 posi unit. It pays to learn to search E-bay. -
Chevy wheel bolt pattern
staledale replied to staledale's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Hey Dmiller240 great site that tells it all. thanks for the help guys! -
Chevy wheel bolt pattern
staledale replied to staledale's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
O.K. thanks guys, I just wondered if chevy had a change back when thing went metric on the wheel studs. -
I trying to buy a set of adaptors for my Dayton wires, the guy selling them said it is 4 1/2 bolt pattern and they fit a Chevy. I've always known chevy as 4 3/4. I know that if you measure center of bolt to center of opp bolt it will measure 4 1/2, but did Chevy change the bolt pattern in the past few yrs? I can get a hell of a deal if they work. any help would be appreciated.
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Wish it was a Ferrari V-12, A Jag is all I could afford. I'm building a coupe, of the GTO. If you click under this post on my profile then click on Staledales presonal gallery you'll see my car. The black body panels are Vella-Rossa, and the gray is from Stable. I got my body on a 77 Z with the roof wacked off and the quarters and doors trimmed with a tourch. I saved it and stuff it away for some reason (got a Cadillac 500ci for it) the body, floors, and frame rails are great on it. But I wanted a coupe and switched the fiberglass to my 72 Z. It is pertty solid but the frame rail where the front crossmember bolts on is bent, so the full frame project.
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It is rated at 300HP stock, at 5.3L (326ci). But with free flowin exhaust, the weber carbs, a little cam, and the smog pumps gone, I hope to get close to 400HP. Dot has a Jag V12 in his, and it weights in at 3200lbs, that is my main concern. He went with a Corvette rear, I'm using an XKE irs, so that should be close. I'm putting a frame under mine so did DOT. I was hoping to be a little lighter but!!!!! I'm also using the turbo 400 from Jag (GM) for now. 3.31 posi rear.
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Just finish watching the reply, the guys good.
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Hey Glenn, Did you have to do any cutting on your firewall? I'd also like to know a little more about your front brakes. thanks, Dale
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Sure!! Lots of them. My newly arrived grandson. Surprize dad, guess what? While they's been a lot of remodeling of the house to make a nursery and move my son into a new bedroom, so the GTO hasn't gotten any attention. I'm finishing up a chest of drawers for my son and back to the garage I go. Just a little set back. Will have some updates soon. I'm ready to pull the six so I can see how the 12 fits. Then I start on the frame. I'll post the pictures then.
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Cuban brought up the subject of Lo-Jack in the kit car forum, what is the story on it? Good , bad, or what? Anyone that has used or know anything about it, please give your 2 cents. thanks
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jbeech Nice looking GTO. How long have you had it? Tell us a little about it. What kit is it? I see where your hood is about 6 inches shorter than mine. About the same at the windsheild but my hood ends a couple inches in front of the core support. like to say again nice car. Wonder how many complete 250 GTO our members have on the road?
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250z Did you ever get a price on any of his other items? wondered about the door latches and hood hold downs.
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I painted with Imron 5000 for yrs (that's why I only have one brain cell left. lol) I loved it when you have all the right stuff. A real paint booth, good filters, and a very clean area. Slow to dry (gets dust), flows out great for the extra high gloss. You can speed up the drying time, but start to lose the flow out and gloss. I sprayed 100ft long locomotives with it for yrs. Two of us would mix up 10 gallon each, one guy to a side, and spray for the next 4 hrs solid. Our company charged up to $37,000 for each locomotive we painted. I painted almost 200 Am Tracs. I've used that paint on cars with great sucuess. I love to use it more often but I got a little dirt issue with the slow drying time. It stands up to stone chips better that any paint I've used. Any of my own cars I paint, I use it. Lots of people like that PPG b/c paint, I've see touch up problems with it, and stone chips. I am learning how to stop the problems with the touch ups.
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Hi Speed, That's something to think about. Don't think it would be to hard, but I've got a lot of issues to take care of first. I'm in that area where I start saying "will I did this, might as well do that". It's snowballing on me. Better that care of my basic's first. Frame, drive train, then maybe start thinking about body mods. I've got to fill in the rear side window as it is, but the hatch is just around the corner. Got pics of my rear swing arms and axles to put up. Anyone get prices off that web site for door handles? I think he's now a member on HybridZ.
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Do you mean, to see my pictures, or to put up your own pictures? I'll try to help ya, but you have to remember that I only have one brain cell still working.
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Hey RacerX havn't talk since I was looking for a paint gun. Now my air compresser isn't big enought. oh well. No real up date pictures just yet. Unless you want to see my wheels and chrome axles. Got to strat striping out the drive train and make room for the frame rails. I still haven't figured out what gas tank to use. Which the fuel cells had an inlet offset to one side. Maybe a mustang tank might fit. Have a donor car for a Cobra that I'll have to climb under and measure. Know anyone that needs a 72 intake with carbs(rebuilt) and all hardware? What do you have going? I've not been reading the whole board lately. Haven't been up todate.
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That's a short stack, I'd love to have a little longer one about 4 inches but........ Thats why I have to drop it in to see if my measurements are right. The hood and fenders drop off so quick right about where the first set of carbs are. The width is a bigger problem. Couple days we'll know.
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That's a Stable frontend. My problem will be the spread of the carbs and the height. I will have to make the bump a little higher and wider. The front carbs will be that high, oh I wish I had them 6 in a row. Get that 6 out and drop the V12 in and get a little better idea where things will fit.
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The distributor is right in the middle, I'll settle for the three in a row on each side. I will make covers to go over the Jag valve covers that look Ferrari like. Yes it is one peice front end with a forward lifting hood. Had to move all the parts to windsheild wipers (motor, arms, pivots) back 1/2 in. and over 5/8 in. to let the front end go back tight to the windsheild rubber. There was close to a 1 in. gap when I started. That let the front fenders over lap the doors a little. So now I trimed them back to get 1/8 gap at the door seams. (little to tight) There is still a little to large of a gap where the door starts to kick back and up to the windsheild post. That shouldn't be to hard to fill in. Didn't get to it yet today, had laundry day today.
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Have a couple of pictures up in my personal gallery. I've got a good start, gutted the inside and have the tar off the floor. Wasn't that bad, 1100 watt heat gun, putty knife, 5 gal bucket to sit on, and a little golden amber refreshment, bout 4 hrs and not working all that hard. Will drop the gas tank and get the drive train ready to remove tomorrow. Which someone wanted it. I'd give it to somebody who comes and picks it up.
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Had to use the software from Kodak that came with my camera, but I got my first picture on.
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Thanks Tim, I'll give that a try.
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I've tried to post some pitures in my personal gallery but I'm getting a message that say's "file to large" how do I change my pictures? Remember, I only have one brain cell left. Make it simple, please.