240zip

good investments too. Rough examples are in the $25,000 range

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/features/z/ZRS1.htm

Blackdragon shows availability for $199 ... 17-piece set, might be the same one.

264.37 http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQNissanQQ240ZQQPrecision_PartsQQWeatherstrip_SealQQ19701973QQPCNN452101.html?apwcid=P1135867996W43b3f85c7ab9e&apwid4DGKp97

How does a magazine like Nostalgic Hero (JDM) or Classic Motorsports go about selecting and then doing a piece on a car? Do they look at self-published examples and then select one, or do they allow people to submit pictures for publication? Just curious if anyone had been published in such a magazine and what the procedure was.

I had a box of 240Z voltage regulators. I decided to pop the top and look inside. One was electro-mechanical with a relay mechanism. No transistors. Another was the same, but had a cheaper plastic top. The third was shorter and had transistors inside. All discrete components. Finally the last one (newest) had an IC chip. The newest one also seems to have an external fuse. If anyone wants, I can take pictures. I hadn't seen this discussed elsewhere.

The 4.2L 4 cam engine was from a 1984. $999 for the whole car, but it came with an automatic. I also found another interesting engine - a Porsche 928 2 cam v8 with a five speed. In both cases you're talking an insane amount to do the swap and then expense it maintaining it. I think the Maserati engine would be great for someone doing a Ferrari GTO / 250 replica conversion. With the ZF 5 speed (which mates to the engine with no problem) and the 4 double down draft webers, you'd have an incredible car. The Maserati engine came in the Indy and a few other cars of that era. I was tempted to take the engine and clean it up and have it on display in my shop just because I love the look of it.

I saw this transplanted into a rat rod. It has four cams, four dual down draft webers. Mates to ZF 5 speed. I'm going to guess it would be a nearly impossible swap even if the engine were nearly free. About 260 HP stock, likely 280 with a free flowing exhaust. Sometimes these cars come into the wrecking yard for almost nothing.

I was looking at an intake for my triple DCOE set-up and noticed it had no balance tube (this one is a spare). Instead of a balance tube someone put in air fittings on each runner and created an odd set-up with hoses attached to a tube that sits on top. It seems it originally came with no balance tube. Under what circumstances (i.e. racing?) would you run a set of triple Webers without a balance tube? Are there any advantages to no having a balance tube?

Thanks for the feedback. I'm surprised that people have been able to run DCOE's with a mechanical fuel pump. I think we'll keep the mechanical pump, our fuel regulator, and add the electric pump near the fuel tank. I have a pump block plate, so I may remove it at some point in future.

In reading up on DCOEs there doesn't seem to be a solid consensus on whether one should keep the mechanical fuel pump in conjunction with the low-pressure high-volume electric fuel pump. People with triple DCOEs on Jags tend to keep them. Any opinions (one way or the other)? The only agreement was 3 PSI for the pressure and ensuring one had sufficient fuel flow.

I have two options with fuel delivery for my Weber 42 DCOE's. First option is a 1 into 3 fuel block that feeds three individual fuel lines to the DCOEs. The second option is a pass through fuel line configuration that goes into the first DCOE, then to the second, and then the third. This second (pass-through / daisy-chain) approach allows for use of the OEM return fuel line. Which set-up is recommended? I looked at JDM 240Z 432 OER triple carb set-ups and they used the pass-through configuration. I then looked at some racing configurations and they all used the fuel block approach.

I'm looking for the braided hose from the master vac to the check valve. My OEM one is a mess (showing its 40 y.o. age). Does anyone make a reproduction?

I've seen this and variants for triples. If I were to go the triple route, I'd consider it. My idea was the same concept but for SUs. RaceTep I would still use the SU heat shield. I think I need to create a picture. I'd duct air via a 3" pipe and CAI filter from in front of the radiator support. None-the-less this is something that's so cheap and quick that I figure I'll just do it.

Just for clarification. We're not asking for an OEM plastic one. I'd like a picture of one that's been fabricated. I'm thinking of something like the stock one only out of aluminum and TIG welded.

I have a CAI cone filter and an old SU airbox. Has anyone cut then welded a 3" pipe to the airbox and then routed it out the front and attached a CAI filter? This seems like a really cheap mod. CAI kits can be had for under $50. The cuting and welding of the adaptor flange is perhaps 1 hour of work (tops).

We'd like to add a fan shroud to this 240Z with an aluminum radiator. Anyone else make one they'd like to share?

We ended up going with John Coffey's R180 STi conversion. Suspension components were powdercoated, hardware was bead blasted and then zinc plated. Energy Suspension bushings were used. All bearings / seals were replaced. Half shafts were rebuilt and balanced. We went with Tokico Illumina 5-way struts and 200 lbs/in linear rate springs in back. The R180 installation was simple with no issues.

Interesting ... we'll start off slow. I didn't know race gas resulted in less power. We have an MSA exhaust and the 6 into 2 into 1 headers. We took the MSA exhaust and then added a Dynomax resonnator. It's all TIG welded (we just like using our TIG at the shop and it looks nice ... ). On the engine itself, it uses ARP bolts pretty much all around. The head to the header uses a copper gasket. Dan runs a turbo motor (know him) with MegaSquirt. Great set-up. On the transmission / differential. We have a 5 speed and R180 LSD with a 3.9 ratio. I used JohnC's adaptors and the Subaru STi rear differential. We'll do an initial tune with the wideband and then see how it goes on the dyno.

I have L28 with .5mm overbore, flat top pistons and an E31 (non-shaved) head. With a Felpro gasket I calculate 10.32:1 as the CR. I used a 260 duration and .450 lift (intake and exhaust) for the cam. I'm very concerned about the system running too lean with the SUs. Can I used the Stock SU carbs with stock needles (I'm running at 5,000 feet elevation)? I'm considering getting SM needles, but given the altitude, I'm not sure if it's necessary. I have K&N filters for the SUs. I also have some extra SU needles (one for an automatic and one for the manual). I'm fairly certain that the code on the SUs on the car are from a manual transmission. I'm not sure if the automatic fuel needle profile would be better for this particular set-up. I also have two sets of triple 42DCOE Webers. I didn't want to bother with the rebuild and setting up of the Webers if the SUs would work. Not that it's critical to the question, but the ignition is a MSD 6a with Pertronix set-up. We have an O2 wideband to help tune the car and will likely pour some race gas into the tank for the first start-up.

I had the EXACT same problem. He's out of them. In my case I already purchased the fronts and was then informed no rears. I used Koni HD springs with 1/2 a coil removed. They're for the 280Z, but are rated at 200lbs. Cut the 1/2 a coil and you get the stock ride height.

I'm interested in a complete SDS EM-6F set-up. I'll also consider a completed Megasquirt or other EMS. Preference is for EDIS.

I have the MSA muffler kit that comes with the Dynaflow muffler (some call it a turbo muffler). I know some people have added a free flowing resonator to this system. Can anyone recommend a free flowing resonator? It seems you can get oval canisters or round tube designs. I found one (4.5" x 6.75" Oval Body, 10" Long) that seems OK. I also found one that's basically a 3.5" tube and 8" long. If anyone has done this, can you tell me what type of resonator you used?

I'm not sure if they need to be rebuilt, but I checked on the factory authorized rebuilding and I think they charge in the neighborhood of $150 per strut to rebuild them. That might explain why people buy the Tokicos.

I found a set of decent Koni HD struts in a set of suspension components we took off a 240Z. All (F/R) are in good shape. They struck me as being very high quality. I also 'found' a set of black strut inserts. These had a Datsun stamped logo on them and were black. They look like modern Tokico's, abeit non-adjustable. How do the Koni's compare to new Tokico 5-way adjustables? I'm used to finding crushed stuts (due to water, then freezing). This was the first time I came across good ones. Something tells me I could have save some money on my suspension rebuild by using the Koni's, but frankly there was no way to know they would be in good shape.