240zip

stainless for $180? Geez ... I wish they made one for the L6!

I don't think it's made by Kamenari. Their heatshield looks like this ... I saw one from the same site, a JDM one. But the link to it has been pulled. It used to cost around $225. I personally liked the design. If I were to fabricate one, it would be the 'L' design. The one you're talking about is rather simple and would be as effective as the Kamenari one pictured on top.

I did a search and it seems many people are not using heat shields. Seems the ideal scenario would be to use a cold air box (like JDM OEM set-ups) but these simply don't exist in the US (except perhaps in TonyD's basement cache of parts). It would be nice is someone had a CAD template of a nice heat shield they'd be willing to share. Who makes heat shields for the triple carb set-ups? Any recommendations on what works? My set-up has ceramic coated unwrapped headers and Weber 42DCOE's with K&N filters. Is there a preference for material choice? Seems many JDM examples are made of stainless steel. I recall once I saw a piece about someone who made a heat shield that used some space-age material that was riveted to metal.

I was looking at my Road and Track article on the 240Z from January of 1970 and it does show the rubber piece. I then looked at a 11-72 Datsun 240Z brochure (the one with the green 240Z on the cover) and it's not there. I would guess that some very early (1969 production) cars may have had them, but it's clear that they weren't around for long. I'll scan some pictures from the JDM magazines and post them.

Did USA 240Zs come with these rear bumper end caps? I've only seen them on JDM restorations and on a few select 240Zs here in the US in magazines (never in person). Did these just fall off? Did people remove them for some reason?

After reading your post I wondered ... my DCOE's are sitting without a heatshield on top of unwrapped ceramic coated headers. Perhaps the carbs are simply heating up (heat soak) after a long run and then as you stated are venting out the open element.

yes, it's there, and I think it's connected to the PCV valve that goes into the Cannon intake. I'll look again, maybe it's loose or something. I can't imagine that we left that unhooked.

Tony, you bring up a good point ... nearly all the standard emission items have been removed. As a general rule, do cars with Weber DCOE's run any sort of EVAP system? You mentioned cases where other OEM DCOE's had EVAP systems, but I'm concerned that I left something out of this installation.

no issues driving at all ... it drives great, just the smell of gas is stronger than I'd like when parked in the garage. DCOE's were rebuilt and tested. Car is likely running a bit rich, but nothing that affects performance.

I added webers to my 2.8L equiped 240Z. I've noticed that my triple webers (42DCOE-8's) have a strong gas smell in the garage. The tank has a mixture of pump and race (108 octane) gas. I checked all hoses, the fuel pump, and fuel lines. Absolutely no leaks. I checked around the carbs. Again, no leaks. Do DCOE's simply have a stronger gas smell as compared to SU's? Does race gas result in the strong smell? The smell was bad enough that I moved the car to the detached garage. Any pointers as to what could be causing this issue?

inspiration versus reality ... oddly enough, the stock Dino is a bit of a dog in terms of performance, but it sure does look nice.

on the tach adapter ... I have the OEM 240Z tach ... and I was told I needed it for that tach. it works. on the fan. that's a non-OEM metal flex fan. using the OEM fan clutch caused clearance issues. On use of an electric fan. I just didn't want electric fans in the engine bay. if I have overheating issues, I'll consider it, but I don't see it being an issue. on polishing the manifold ... it's honestly not that high on my priority list, my next set of tasks is getting the interior up to snuff, that will likely take all Winter. about the only thing I'm going to do for sure for the engine is to fabricate a nice heat shield between those headers and the carbs. it's sort of shame to cover them up.

some pictures of the engine bay completed Shows the MSD6AL and Tach Adapter along with the Filter King regulator / filter. I really like how the MSD bracket turned out. Shows 42DCOE-8 set-up and linkage. The return spring is simple and effective. You can see the copper gasket in this picture. Seems to be working fine so far. Opposite view of engine bay. Still needs a few minor items and pieces to complete, but at least it's running. Currently in the break-in period.

Just some pictures of car at delivery ... buffed and detailed Still need to work on some minor timing issues after Christmas You get a better idea of the color in this picture

I've seen layered metal head gaskets for the L28 and I mainly thought they were used in stroker applications. I've recently seen a spat of solid (not layered) copper gaskets being sold. There's one for about $110 on eBay. Under what circumstance would a solid copper gasket make sense? I used a 'dead soft' copper exhaust gasket for my header and had to machine the exhaust flange on a Bridgeport to make it perfectly straight. I'm pleased with the result, but it's clear that you can't just use these without some metal preparation. Would you really want to use such a gasket for a turbo L28ET application?

3/4" steel ... put me on the list please

I don't see why you couldn't take some aluminum bar stock and then TIG weld the pieces together.

here are two pictures of one off a car we're parting out hope these are of some help ...

It was out of my price range at $150-$200 though Im sure thats what they can go for, I was just ultra broke at the time. Those Sun distributor testers can go for upwards of $2000 ... if you see one for $200, let me know. I'd be happy to buy it and let you use it. http://paramountd.com/sale.html

30 ounce ... I see you're in Milliiken. I'm down the road in Mead. I'd love to see your Rebello 3.0 in person.

I put an E31 head on a F54 280ZX block. That's a fairly common swap for the 240Z. The EFI heads from the 280ZX would mate with the L26 block too. Pretty much all the heads / blocks for the L24, L26, and L28 can be interchanged, albeit with mixed results. To be frank, the effort to go EFI and the effort to go turbo are about the same.

You can source a L24 block here in the US for a very reasonable price (perhaps $100 or less). I think there's someone selling one in the classified here for $50. The L24 came with two heads - the E31 and the E88. Early E88s are basically the same as the E31. The most power you're going to get from a L24 would be a rebuilt engine from either Rebello or Sunbelt. Rebello makes a special L24 engine that's 'stroked' to 2.7 liters but uses the stock block and head. You'd be able to show your government folks the correct block and head. http://www.rebelloracing.com/enginebuild.htm They claim 270HP with triples. Not sure of your budget, but you may want to consult them. I suspect they've sold to Europe.

Cost of the driver's door panel from Canada is about $250 including shipping to the US. That also covers customs fees. So, for about $400 you can get a pair (one from the US, the other from Canada). That's likely the cheapest route to take. Otherwise, you're looking at $600 + shipping (cheapest on eBay).

I think for the money, it seems getting the upgrade makes sense. Gives me more than I have now and I'll look into other data logging options. I checked your photo albums. Hopefully I'll have something to show in about 6 months.

Nigel, the URL brings up an Australian site. Do you have to order from them or can this be purchased in North America / Canada? Thanks for the information.