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About skully

  • Birthday 08/07/1969

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    Charlotte, NC

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Newbie (1/14)



  1. Finally getting to finish my brake rebuild but after chasing leaks (all new Stainless steel lines) I bled the MC and all four corners (wilwood 6/4 setup) the pedal is still soft and goes to the floor. I would expect it be firm and not allow for full travel. Is this a booster rod adjustment? Also using the 280Z booster
  2. Ordered a Tilton 75 TIL-75-875U and there's no way it will fit. the diameter of the C MC will rub on the 8.5 MC. Running a T56 and Wilwood 6/4 on the Z. Anyone else have this problem? Ideas? Seems like I would need a 8" or smaller MC or alternate Clutch MC than the recommended Tilton 75 series... ugh
  3. picked up 21503 but no way this "fits" in any direction. Is this used to splice and cut like KTM did or is 21712 the actual LS to Datsun Radiator the working #? Not sure I follow socorob's post -", Gates 21712, and Goodyear 61457. The other half that goes to the Datsun radiator is an original for the Datsun, Gates PN 20776." Would be nice to have some definitive posts and pics: Datsun Radiator- Upper: 21503 Lower: xxxxx Chevy / Aftermarket Radiator - Upper:22478 Lower:22625 Alternative solutions: Split lower with 1.5" tubing See threadhttp://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116370-ls1-gurus-info-needed-on-radiator-hoses-what-are-you-guys-using/?p=1091157
  4. Radiator ordered. Need to get back to work on her and order tubing for the CAI and oil cooler
  5. We get there between 8am (hard core) and 10 (lazy) - I try to get up there by 9 and hang out for a few hours - we have a great turn out of Z's. old, new - GT-R's G35/7 ... usually about 15-25 show up.
  6. Cr@p- looks like I reversed my inlet/ return - check this one out- it's better http://www.hotwireauto.com/?page=support
  7. Hey 280Zjake- I should be there- park over by the one shelter- that's where the Carolina Z Club parks (I am the CZC Treasurer) - We talked about those long tubes right? We will have to chat-- Mikey303- I had to check a few places on the routing of the C5 filter. http://www.speedinc.com/ls1-ls2-lsx-conversion-fuel-filter-w-regulator-6-an.html Finished routing my fuel lines last night- all hooked up. Now to disassemble and pump some cleaner through and reassemble. (tomorrow...)
  8. thanks! My first Z was an 82 280ZX Coupe- White with red - This is my 10th - another Z white w/red - I figured since I gutted the interrior - I'd keep the red alive in places for the look. Turned out pretty nice so far i think.
  9. Love it Mike...Can't wait to see it run and get down the track
  10. I figured it was about time to start my thread on my 240Z that I've been building for a few years.... To start the background on the Z; I found it on ZCar.com in central Florida however it did live half it's life in Texas. Pictures looked pretty decent for a 72 and mostly unmolested. It had recent paint, classic hubcaps and upgraded 280Z block; 5spd and R200 diff transplant. After reviewing the pics and video, I made up my mind to commit to this one. The 175/70-14 donuts were so bad; they almost looked like original tires but what the hell, she was going to be a track car- right? I contacted the owner and found a flight on Jet Blue to Orlando for $99. I flew down on Saturday morning and my old boss picked me up at the Orlando airport and we drove over to check it out. Everything was as expected, nothing to make me fly back to Charlotte today. I did cut some of the fuel line and re-tighten some of the clamps just in case. Paid the guy and drove off to Charlotte. Car ran great up to Columbia where I stopped to see family and take a break from the drive. The biggest problem was the exhaust leak but with both windows down, wasn't too bad ~ Hit the house about midnight that night but she ran great and no issues. I drove her for about a year before the planning stages began. My last 240Z I built was 12:1 high compression L28 that I built back in 93 with forged pistons, floating pins; cam and all the fixins... L28's are pretty good but have limits and are still iron blocks. Looking at other alternatives; I started looking at RB swaps. The biggest issue I found was going to get parts for them, but wasn't a huge issue considering our global transportation system and JDM suppliers on the west coast. You can get a RB engine and wiring harness pretty decent price but then you want to get bigger turbo (s) and all the fixins...Some say the RB26 has too much power and RB25 is better...both can put out gobs of power and take your paycheck just as easy as making that power. There's some good suppliers of RB swaps these days too like McKinney. Then I started looking at VQ swaps like A Hoke. I like the idea of staying in the family but it wasn't that important- Weight and power were the main requirements. There were some VQ swaps out there that look pretty good but then I started looking at the power and decided no VQ35. Hmmm, what about VQ37? still pretty new and prices were still pretty high for a VQ37 with tranny and harness. I started to think about the old american love of sticking a V8 in a small foreign car like Carol Shelby. Why not? The SCARAB was our answer to this question. But the early generation small block engines were heavy and not what I was looking for in a car to track. After seeing Dave Palarmo's LS1 240Z at the 2008 ZCON @ mid-ohio I thought that was a nice setup. Doing some research on it; the LS engine is a few pounds different than the L28. Buying a LS1/T-56 combo was easy to come by but many of them have oil issues (lack of owner responsibilities in changing the oil) and ragged out / tranny issues with hard shifting over 80K+ miles on most of the combo's. Started looking at the various LS engines and options. The F-Body SS Camaro's and Firechickens were around and running car would cost about 4-6K depending on the condition. Better the condition the better the care I thought...THen started looking at wrecked GTO's for LS2 engines with lower miles. About the same in price. I put the word out and found an LS6 at the right price. A fellow track junkie and known around the circles; I was pleased to find this beast with about 4800 miles on it and already had a hot cam installed. So off to the rodeo I went. I started to strip down the Z and for the past three years- due to three crazy kids, wife and job...I'm "almost done!" kind of...at this point I'm just ready to get her started and shake out a few things- mainly what is left to do: Run brake lines (MC to wheels all aorund) Finish fuel lines (today?!?) Dash decision - Aluminum or stock (going twords aluminum to just do it...) wire it up Radiator Exhaust Battery wires THE LIST [Drivetrain] LS6 Engine - Fuel Injected with cable throttle body. T-56 Magnum- Enough to hold 600 HP. - Stock will not work (for long) Q45 / CV shafts. Driveshaft shop Aluminum driveshaft DXD dual friction clutch Interior Roll bar Auto-Meter guages Start switch Battery relocation / lighter battery Exterior ZG flares BRE spoiler [Chassis] Bad Dog Racing full frame rails New floor pans Stripped and painted underpan Stripped and painted front clip [Fuel] Fuel cell - 16 gal Summit circle track Russell Fittings Bosch 44 fuel pump Speedway LS conversion regulator For now- stock fuel rail [suspension] TTT rear lower control arms Coilovers - Koni Shocks Quick steering couplers / bump steer spacers TTT T/C rods TTT Lower Control Arms [brakes] AZC Wilwood on all 4 corners (6/4). Heavy Duty Rotors SS Lines all around Wilwood 1" MC 280Z Booster Pics attached... Thanks to Matt Isbel and Mike Kelly for inspiration as well as the countless hours on HYBRIDZ allowing me to second guess everything and upgrade upgrade upgrade... This is my first real track car so I'm sure I've screwed up somewhere- feel free to tell me -much of this has been a great learning experience from restoring cars since I was a kid helping my Dad to what I've built to date. So far I'm really happy and wish I could be ready for ZDAYZ but looks like that's out this year- Hope to get her to CMP this summer... Right now, I'd like feedback on the fuel setup - how much fuel starvation will I have and do I need to sump it? Any concerns with my setup like heat soak or fuel starvation issues I can avoid? Thanks in advance for the feedback
  11. Crap- Missed that note at the beginning- thanks bfg.
  12. How much does this weigh? With all the foam, extra metal, bondo and three coats of Fiber Glass- it must weigh 60 lbs now?
  13. Yep, it's the 39 spline so I'll have to go with the upgrade or eat it- so I'd rather upgrade all said and done. It's the better choice anyway just didn't want to shell out the 700 this year...and thought they could be swapped out - nothing on Ross's website about the larger flange or spline count - what I ordered is this -http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=65 and as it states - "These billet pieces only match up with 280Z stub axles which ARE stronger than 240Z units so if you have the chance to upgrade from 240Z stub axles and companion flanges, you can directly swap in our billet 280Z stub axles (or used OEM 280Z units, your option) and our billet CV adaptor/companion flanges" ... Thanks for the feedback at least I know what the next steps are.
  14. yes, I'll post some photo's in the am.
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