Erins.ZCar

We estimate under 10MPH only! Otherwise manufacturers would have been doing it 30+ years instead of Park Benches... Mostly concerned about radiator and gas tank damage in a minor collision. I could double the bars or size and add some diagnal supports but the weight increase would equal the original bumpers.

I decided to add some bumper support for my MSA 2 front and rear skirts. I don't like the idea of my daughter driving without at least a small amount of collision protection. Plus given teenage boys who constantly have to lean or stand on something I decided to give some support to the fiberglass bumpers using 1" 11 Gauge steel tubing and fabricating support structures for the skirts to sit on. This will reduce the risk of fiberglass fractures from someone leaning or "resting" on the skirts while providing a small amount of protection in case of a minor fender bender. I also removed the front tow hooks and used those mounting holes and fabricated support bars to reach over to the fender wells to support the bottom corners of the front skirt. I used the original front bumper shock mounts and just torched off the shocks leaving the mounting plates which I welded the tubing to directly. For the rear, I just got lazy and cut off the shocks so I didn't have to drop the gas tank and welded directly onto the remaining tube. What do you think of my answer to the Kobayashi Maru?

I have two '76 and one '77 280Z and all engine compartments match the original paint on the cars. My '76s have silver engine compartments and silver body paint, my '77 has a red engine compartment and red body paint that PO re-painted dark blue and a crappy paint job at that! Costs me over a grand to soda blast the '77 because the bad paint job. My experience tells me engine compartment color equals original body paint unless someone has done a full restoration and quality paint job. Hope this helps!

Sorry, I understand that, was just offering a possible different solution. No disrespect meant!

I installed 1965 Mustang Tail Lights onto my daughter's 76 280Z. I removed the stock tail lights, surrounds, and license plate holder first: I then used 1/2" foam insulation sheet and laid out the tail light surrounds and license plate holder on the sheet in their mounted positions tracing the general shape into the foam. I cut out the template and shaped it to fit into the rear end: I measured center and spaced the Mustang tail lights properly and then test fit the Mustang parts in place: Once I was happy with the test fit and template design, I took the template to my local machine shop and for a very reasonable cost they cut my template out of 18 gauge steel. I spot welded the new plate in place and the car went into paint earlier this week. Sorry forgot to take photos of the spot welded piece. Will stop by tomorrow morning and take a pic or two and post it after the plate is fully welded and finished. Once back from paint I'll finish the re-wiring of the tail lights since the Mustang uses a single combination bulb instead of multiple bulbs and I'll relocate the backup lights to the MSA Rear Skirt opening using LEDs.

Really need a pair of 2+2 side skirts. ZStore has been backordered for 45 days now and no one else seems to have pair in stock either. By chance does anyone have an unused pair available?

Thanks, work in progress! My daughter's 16th birthday present. Yes, she picked it out and requested the Mustang tail lights. ZForce sells a fiberglass replacement panel that will fit any 4-4.5" round lights. That means it should take anything from a 68 Stingray Bubble lights to 76 I think it is? C4 or C5 models? Whatever you choose to do, give it your own little twist! Makes it kinda of special even if inspired by someone else's mod! Good Luck!

Like the idea of the newer Camaro lights as well. My first love was to install a set of 65-66 Mustang lights so I started by buying a set a reprod tail lights and then created a template out of foam insulation. Test fitted the lights and they look great, see pics. Now I have a friend with a metal shop cutting a 16 gauge replacement panel with his plasma system. I had him not cut the tail light holes out so we can use the original as a template. Might consider selling the blank replacement panel so anyone can install any lights you want. What do you think? Cost would be around $80-$90 per panel plus shipping. Easier for my friend to cut five panels at a time out of one sheet of metal.

Cheapest repair to a Z I ever made!

Six years ago I replaced mine with a perfect match I got at "Insert Big Box Hardware Retailer Here". Just cut the old one off, matched it up by size, heated up with hair dryer, lubed it up, and it worked fine for me.