Paz8

2.02 sbc heads are "camel hump" heads or Fuelie heads from the sixties and seventies, 64 C.C. combustion chambers. 2.02 is the intake valve size. Why not put a good cam and valve springs in and use the motor, if your concerned over the mains, start it up and get it warm and change the filter and oil after 15 min. run time just to be safe. Use an overdrive trans and a 3.54 ratio rear to take advantage of the mid range torque. Just my $.02

Thanks for the offer VinhZXT, I have 30+ years in elect./ electronics the wiring isn't a problem. Just looking to disable start and pop open doors so when I go Sunday riding I don't need to put back the T tops everytime I leave for 5 minutes. Actually looking for a good brand name product, I don't want to create a problem with a cheap alarm system, what brand do you install?? Don't need lo-jack, I have two friends with me in the car Smith and Wesson.

OK, did a search and couldn't find the answer, building a V8 ZX and have the complete interior removed down to the steel. Thought that when I reassemble the car I would like a security system for remote entry and START disable, easier to wire the thing now that everythings apart. Looking at some alarms made by Commando, anyone use one of these or can suggest a brand name alarm that is reliable. Don't need a pager kind of system or a lot of extra sh*t.

What type of heads on the engine?? If they are 2.02, use the engine, as you know the "magic" in SBC is the heads. Just my opinion

I wouldn't count on a parking brake holding, if the trans is in reverse it isn't going to hold as well. If your state has a safety inspection requirement you'll need a back-up light switch also??

On my 83 ZX with SBC I used a cast exhaust man. from a Camaro or Caprice, the drivers side points striaght down between spark plugs 5 and 7 and still interfered with the steering shaft. Cut the straight section pointing down off (about an inch above the O2 sensor) and ground a rear facing angle into it. Tack weld to check fit and then get the manifold hot (in an oven) and MIG weld about three passes. Touch up the welds and paint with VHT.

You never mentioned the year of the Z car you are planning to install the SBC, If it's a ZX it makes a difference.

Gotta agree, you can fix runs on the clear coat fairly easy, some people new to automotive paint don't realize the cost of just the paint supplies to do a quality paint job.

If your painting the entire car the type of paint you choose determines the type of primer coats you use. Base coat/clear coat is the most used. You need to stick with one manufacture as they call the paints "systems" As an example, I use Chroma base/clear so I use all of duponts primers etc. this way everything works together, this takes the guess work out. The big brand name base/clear coat paints are costly so you need to do it right the first time. I am NOT a pro painter just shelf taught doing my own projects, just my opinion.

I also set back the motor to within about 1/4 inch of the firewall to distributor. If you use a ZX front cross member you can buy JTR motor mounts which are adjustable front to rear and left to right, this makes it easier to place engine were you want it. Good to hear your "doing it right" if it was easy anyone could do it.

Just did a quick measurement on my zx with a SBC, engine is set back about even with the lower flat part of the firewall, comes to be about 12 to 14 inches to steering rack, rack is almost level with front crossmember, sticks up a little on both ends. Hope that helps some.

VinhZXT, would like to hook up sometime, and see your projects. Spdsk8r thanks for the pics, shifter looks great, guess I'll go with the camaro shifter and cable, be easy. Already modified wiring for shifter mounted switches and the lock-up clutch in the trans. Thanks again for your input.

I'm wrestling with the same problem, would like to keep it neat looking. I'm using a 700r4 or a 4L60 without the E. The ZX shifter has the arm on the wrong side, but that can be fixed the JTR manual shows how. The ZX shifter does NOT have switches for neutral start or back up lights this was handled internally by the datsun trans. I looked at Camaro shifters and it looks like it would stick up sort of high. I'm going to look at a Subaru shifter my next trip to the junk yard, they have 4 forward gear positions and all the switches. Noticed your from Philly, I'm 50 miles north of you, almost neighbors.

I'm out of this one, the kids a day dreamer, and another guy has to get in the last word.

Pop n Wood you and I agree, I still suggest a complete running camaro that someone wants to unload because of body damage, interior bad, bald tires, you get the picture. These cars have rotted floor pans if in the snow belt. You just need to find one that is good running. Off that car you get engine, trans, radiator, drive shaft, floor shifter, etc. You can pick up these cars for under $500 or as little as $200, the thing don't even need a title. This may be considered a RED Neck way of doing it, but this is the guys first swap, he won't keep this car forever.

The original post requested info on an ECONOMICAL sbc, the LS1 as described is a LOT of MONEY, something us old dudes have but maybe not everyone that posts here. If I were building a daily driver I would go with the LS1 because of the reliablity and smoothness, fuel economy, etc. I have put a few in street rods for this reason. Now, I am NOT going to suggest a $5000 crate motor because MONEY is a concern. Anyone understand this??

Gotta love it then everything comes together, everyone in their younger days tries to "micky mouse" sh*t together, never really works out well. Good to see you are doing it right. If it was easy, anyone could do it.

Thanks Cody, mine's an 83'

Did a search and couldn't find the answer: Is the front sway bar the same dia. for turbo and NA s130's??

That painted # is used to match up the gear set forget it. Look again at the ring gear, it should be stamped with something like this "H39:11 CX 3.4" the 39:11 is the ratio, 11 divided into 39= 3.54. It is stamped kind of small so look close.

Don't get too hung up on engine codes, it will make you crazy, the casting # are at the rear of the block and I know I can't read them with the motor in the car. A pre 1987 motor is carburated and will NOT require you to mess around with all that computer wiring when doing a swap. If you go with a injected engine then get the complete harness and computer out of the car, this raises the cost and complexity. Almost any SBC 350 will make a stock Z look like it's going backwards. As for cost it varies widely, miles on engine. year, type, etc. ask around and find someone that deals with a junk yard that he TRUSTS and buy there. Just my opinion

Went Junk yarding today, something I really like to do, found a 1990 ZX with a finned rear cover, could not get a good look at the rear but noticed it's way different than a R200. Anyone out there messed with trying to swap one into a S130?? Looks like a good amount of fabrication, I can get the rear and half shafts cheap. P.S. I'm assuming it's a LSD type??

Grumpy, I know exactly how you feel, I'm the same age as you and been spinning wrenches since my early teens (when the world was simpler) I work alone 99.9 % of the time and like it that way,. After building 2 custom Harleys the last 2 winters, I decided to do a Z car. I'm reitired and have the time so nothing I do is rushed, I love fabrication with steel, bending welding etc. The Important thing in this Hobby is that it is just that a HOBBY, if I don't feel like working on the Z the next few days then so what? I do it for enjoyment and it is great to drive something you built from nothing. Amen

Look for a Camaro or Firebird 350 with a CARB, mid 1980's, get the engine and transmission together as a unit, get the drive shaft. This way is easy and economical and can be modified later. Somtimes you can buy a complete car (Camaro) that is banged up or body rotted out but still runs good very cheap. This way you can drive the donor car to check out the motor and trans. This makes for an easy swap. Just my opinion

Greetings to all, new guy to the forum, my first post. I may be missing something here but you failed to mention what kind of trans your running, if it's a manual it's not as bad with a built up sbc made to put out near WOT, BUT, with a auto (700r4 as example) you need some low end power band to make it streetable, back to your 750 CFM ?, try the jets and adjust your accelerator pumps to make them squirt less fuel, I think the quadrajets that Chevy used on 350 were around 750 CFM, don't know for sure. Paz8