Paz8

Deja also is running cast iron exhaust manifolds which helps to keep down the temp under the hood, just my observation.

You didn't mention what type of trans you would like to end up with? It would make some sense to get your "temporary" engine with the type of trans you want to keep in the car, this way you buy the trans once. If you want a carb engine look for a 85' or older Camaro, Firebird, problem is most are old with alot of mileage, but don't give up there is alot of SBC out there.

Thr JTR manual has suggestions for which 350 they consider the best for the swap. They also suggest to get a complete engine, trans, and drive shaft from one car, the lower the mileage the better. Read the conversion manual and then read it again, has a ton of info on your questions.

Ok, my stock stereo pod is out of the car while I do my interior, I'm here looking at now. Illumination- Two pin connector red/blue and black/red, should light up your new stuff at night and still work with the light dimmer. The six pin connector Green/yellow comes from the fuse block 10A fuse marked R on with ign key. The same connector a blue wire comes from the fuse block and is hot at all times. You need to check with some type of tester to make sure, mine stuff is from an 83' ZX, don't know if they are the same. Why don't you buy a light socket and bulb at an auto supply place and attach longer wires to it and use it as a voltage tester. Get a good chassis ground on the shell part and touch the other end to the wire your working on. You need to check with the ign. key in on position or acc. position. Hope this helps some.

Be aware that your voice warning system will not work with an after market audio system, it's connected to the drivers side front speaker, has a wire going to the stock radio to mute it so you can hear the voice talking. This may not be an issue with you, just my input.

Did you also remove the pan that covers the bottom of the rad. to the front of the engine? If so the air is going to travel up behind the rad. and try to stop the air going through the front at highway speed. They put that pan there for a reason!!!

You should never go more than a 50/50 mix, most car manufacturers go with 40% antifreeze, 60% water.

I have a Hobo Freight flanger / punch , problem is the punch only works about a 1/4 inch in from the edge of a peice of sheet metal. The flanger works great.

I'm almost finished replacing both floor pans and frame rails on my 83'ZX. The car is on jack stands, engine and trans removed. I used a 4.5 inch angle grinder with cutoff wheels for the entire job, did all the cutting from inside the car, only needed to go under car to cut frame rails. I also used an air powered metal shear, nibbler, and flanger/punch when modifing the new pans. This is taking alot of time, can't wait to put the SBC back in the car and getter done.

I have an 83'ZX I assume they are the same. You do have the two wires reversed as per your post. The other small relay in that fender space is the horn relay yellow/black and yellow wires. There is also a connector which leads to the inside of the car to the fuel pump relay, this is where the blue/red and white/black wires connect along with other wires.

I think the frame rails are around .050, or slightly thinner. You can't help burning through sometimes because the metal may be rusted thin on the inside where you can't see it. It will weld nice at one spot and go through a couple of inches away. I use a small 120 volt Miller mig with .023 wire and gas with it set around 3 volts and speed around 40.

Pop N Wood, is that going to require an engine control computer, if so what kind? Just curious, I like the idea of the carburation.

So this guy owns a business in LOS ALAMOS NEW MEXICO, correct? Is it a used car lot? What street is it on? Whats his first name?

You just picked up the car on Saturday! go after the seller and make him fix it. If it's showing all these problems now your in for a long hard road. Maybe alittle harsh but the truth. The vibration can be alot of things, motor mounts, trans mount, exhaust system rubbing the underside of the car etc. SBC 350 built after 85' (I think) use balanced flywheels or flex plates as part of the engine balance. The leaking trans is a seperate problem, AT fluid is redish and smells different than engine oil, put some on your finger and check it out. This could also be a simple fix like a leak in the trans cooler line. The WOT problem can be alot of things, fuel filter, stuck choke plate, intake leak, fuel pump, etc.

why don't you pull the oil pan to see if the crack continues to the inside of the block. The pan needs to come off anyway if the cracks welded because that area needs to be heated before it's welded.

Anyone found an off the shelf PS hose for the pressure side of the pump to the steering rack? Using an old style chevy PS pump 70's and early 80's and a ZX power rack and pinion.

Yes,Yes,Yes if it is a street driven car, too many things can go wrong, I wouldn't want to be upside down in my Z trying to get out of the seat belt thinking that I should have put in a fuel pump shut off.

Did a search and couldn't find an answer, anyone know the diameter of a stock 280 turbo exhaust pipe from the cat to the rear mounted muffler for a model year 83'. Thinking that I could use a pair of these for my SBC exhaust, save alot of fab work.

Try a different junk yard, that is a very common manifold, or take it to a CERTIFIED welder and have it fixed.

You weren't kidding when you stated you don't do things half way, seems to me you could fab up some mounts for an LS1, with the engine set back that far any off the shelf mounts that you could buy wouldn't fit anyway. Just my thoughts.

Anyone have an Autopower Street roll bar installed in a 280 ZX ? Have my complete interior removed and replacing floor pans, thought I could make provision for a roll bar now, car will be street driven only.

Check the float levels on your 600 and the power valve, as stated before 600 Holley is a good street carb. How do the spark plugs look, what color are they? How does the engine IDLE, alittle fast and rough, intake or vacuum leak? Don't replace the carb on one persons say so, may not be the problem at all.

How are the exhaust valves in the heads? Bet that a few are alittle rusty. That cam looks like it sat and got pitted then someone started the engine and it ran dry a few seconds, check the cylinder bores for scoring. I hate dishonest people that KNOWINGLY sell damaged stuff.

Looks great, just a few thoughts, the air moving through the radiator needs to exit under the car somewhere, guess you could put in a bunch of louvered panning but you would need alot of area. As far as the lift issue goes it seems to me that it's not an issue unless your driving at very high speeds. just my opinion.

Better yet are those TV shows building bikes, you know American C*opper, the only person that can spin wrenches is the employee, the other family members have no mechanical ability at all. Well lets fire up this bike, the drama builds, the bike starts without a single puff of smoke out the pipes, who are they kidding??