Zman0690

While I love making things myself I have towonder why you would put a cage in a car that isn't going to the track? If its for safety then why would it matter where the wreck happened, wouldn't the results be the same and thus the need for safety? Really not trying to start anything, just curious.

There were actually several molds that look similar to this that only really differ on the side pieces and how they addressed the hatch key mechanism.

Excellent, I would also add the option of going stand alone as the plug and play options for the DE are becoming fairly reasonable second hand, especially when compared to what companies like Zfever are charging to eliminate NATS/BCM. Additionally this option opens up all the opportunities for tuning and turbo charging if one desires down the road.

Weld-thru primer, in general, is not designed to actually weld to or thru. Its more like a high heat primer that does not flake off when the surrounding metal heats up. I mean think about it this way, do you need primer under your weld? No, but the surrounding area is where it is needed. I generally spray the area surrounding where my weld will be and then sand off the portion directly where the welds are going to be.

I'm failing to see what the purpose of these would be.

Hello fellow VQ swappers. I've been trying to decide what differential ratio to go with on my VQ swap and decided I'd see what everyone else is/has gone with and why? What's everyone's setup or your logic on the best street/strip setup. FYI, whatever I go with it will have to be some form of LSD.

He specified he was using a Walbro 255 which should provide more than adequate volume for what he is running. I do agree that an improperly sized fuel filter could be an issue. Although Angry_Dave hasn't posted a reply to this in a while so this may be another thread which has no conclusion.

Well its good to know that it was cleaned out properly. The main difference between carbed and FI tanks is a baffling system. You have to realize that when you are cornering/accelerating and your pickup starts sucking air the carbs are still getting gas from the float bowls, with an FI system if the pickup is ever not submerged then you are going to have issues. Are you checking the voltage after load has been put on the motor? It seems to me your problem is originating after you are driving it, not while it is sitting still. You need to recreate this. Otherwise you are correct in your assumption that there is some sort of blockage where you are getting enough PSI as long as the volume requirements are not too high. Did you use AN fittings or barbs? Either way it shouldn't be too much trouble to disconnect the lines and blow them out along with putting some air pressure in the outlets of the pump and filter and blowing back to see if anything comes out. Sorry its taken me so long to respond, the new forum system does a horrible job of email notifications.

Well your first problem (from what I understand from many people, not personal experience) was using Z fever to begin with. Seems like all I hear is horror stories from that company, especially anything involving VQ swaps. Secondly just because you replace the regulator does not mean that the regulator is getting proper fuel pressure to begin with. Walbro is a reputable company but that does not mean the pump is not defective or clogged, especially since you are using a tank that is 40 years old and probably wasn't properly cleaned out and setup to run F.I. I would also check the voltage the pump is getting under load and ensure that you are getting proper voltage.

Excellent.

Let me know your approach. I posted earlier this year wanting to see what others had done and how their results had held up over the years and got a few bites but not nearly what I was looking for. I was really hoping more people would have posted close up pictures of their results, their fastening technique and how long since they were attached. I still think this is something the future Z community would really benefit from.

I don't know how many of you are already aware so I thought I would share. I've had a nice sized compressor (4hp/60gal) and many air tools for several years now and always thought I needed something with more power because my air tools just didn't have the torque or power I thought they should have. Well after reading on other boards about people complaining about the same thing there were several people who suggested switching to Milton Hi Flo fittings and all I can say is wow. These fittings have almost twice the diameter of my old fittings and my tools have never worked this well. No more bogging down, lots of torque and I couldn't be happier! Anyways just thought I would pass along the tip in case anyone else was experiencing the same thing. BTW they can be quite pricey but I found the best deal online at Tool Source.

Can you post up some pics of the modifications you made to get the steering shaft to fit your custom mounts? Thanks. BTW I just want to make sure that you CADed these in mm correct? Thanks!

I've got a set still attached to a short block. $20 shipped to your door. $25 if you want a nice set of insulators to go with them. PM me back.

I'm glad to see you are actually trying to save this car, mind you all my Zedds had slightly less rust it was still worth the learning experience just keeping my Z on the road every week. I'd really recommend you start with structural rust instead of cosmetic like you did though. Good luck and keep the updates coming.