dwarlick

If the engine movement causes rattleing against the rad support my first thought would be to cover the pipes in some rubber like a piece of bicycle innertube. If that doesn't work then I can alyays enlarge the holes I am not enthusiastic about that option. Hopefully with the noeprene bushings on the motor mounts vibration will be minimal. Straight, the motor and tranny cost 5800 from racer98 highly recommend Karim. Motor mounts were 550, I/C was about 200, radiator 200. New timing belt, fuel system, gauges, AEM with wideband, boost controller MAP sensor, 600cc injectors, modification of pan and pickup, wiring, plumbing and misc parts including N1 oil and water pumps all totaled about 13-14k. In total its approaching 30k and I haven't touched the body or interior.

Which part? The entire swap cost a sh*tload.

AAhhh, Thanks?

I mentioned this shop in another thread, but I thought I'd share some pics some are iphone so sorry about quality. Notice the intake piping. I can't wait to get this thing on the street its gonna be nice.

I have no idea about the solid rotor setup. I would think the performance improvement would be nominal because it is still a solid rotor.

These are the best I have you need better let me know I can Snap a pic later this week. My car is in the shop getting a minor power plant upgrade . see third pic. [/url]

I am having a shop work on this very thing. They are putting in a AEM, MAP, boost controller and a Wideband. My understanding is that the placement of the BOV before or after I/C does not matter although some believe that before may cause inefficiencies due to the reversal of flow in the compressed air. The venting of the air back into the intake is a recirculating BOV system which is how the RB26 setup stock. So that means the ECU is programmed to account for that air being pumped back into the intake so if you used a "atmospheric" BOV with the stock ECU then the tune will not be correct and the motor will run rich upon rapid decelleration. Lastly AEM with MAP sensor does not require the use of MAFs. This a good thing because the are bulky and are just another part that can break.

In my case the tires rubbed so I trimmed the air dam and fenders. I still have not gotten an alignment and I believe this will fix the problem. Also I used 245's on the front and I could have used a narrower tire which would also help. As far as spacers, I don't really even notice them.

This thread will also help http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104735 You will have to change the hub if you want to run vented rotors.

I had the same issue and got help from the forum. I have the S13 disc conversion in the rear and clearance on the rear is not an issue. For the front if you want to run the toyota 4x4's you have two options and both require the hubs from Modern Motorsport and Z31 rotors if you want vented fronts. First you can run the S13W caliper which has 4 equal sized pistons and are monster big and they require about a 5/8ths inch spacer. Second option is to use the S12+8 caliper and a 1/4 spacer. I chose option 2. The down side of the S12+8s is they have one large piston (same as the ones on S13w) and one smaller piston. I don't see this as a big issue. They are still four piston and they are designed to stop a vehicle that is about twice the weight of a Z. Check out my thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129101&highlight=watanabe+4x4

Here is a link to the progress on my swap. Its getting close and I'm pretty excited about it. http://www.toyspeedracing.com/id178.html

Don't forget recirculating BOV's if you are going with factory ECU. I just recently put my car into a swap shop and they are doing all the things I don't have time or the skills to do. Here is a rough outline. AEM Standalone, Wideband, Boost controller, Sensors, and AEM Gauge - I think about $1,800 parts Gauges - $800 Fuel Lines Filter, Regulator and After Market Fuel Rail Rewiring I/C Piping Intake Piping Downpipe Fabrication Oil pan and pickup modification Replaced oil pump water pump and timing belt With N1s Now mind you I drove the car into them with the RB26 mounted and running. Before I took it to them I had done my own half assed version of I/C and Intake piping and halfway patched the exhust and the car was running. I remembered thinking at the time that the guys in hybridz were wrong and that this is a cheap swap. Oh boy was I wrong. All together the stuff I listed above is costing me over $11k. I know that sounds like a lot but I have been monitoring their progress closely and at their shop rate of $75/hr I know this is a more than fair price. The stuff I listed is a monumental amount of work and in my opinion if you are not a good fabricator and a good at general mechanical and electrical do not attempt this swap on your own. If you have the money or the skills (and free time) then go for it. Here is a link to the shop's page on my swap. http://www.toyspeedracing.com/id178.html BTW if anyone on this board mentions any of this to my wife I will stab you in the heart with an ice pick.

I want to commend you on you patience and persistence. I too was hasty in selecting a base for my project and purchased a POS rust bucket the first go around and ended up bailing out on it and finding a clean '71 Series 1 instead (2,800 for basically a R200 rearend). Anyone looking to start a project take heed, your money goes sooo much further paying a little more for a clean, as rust free as possible body as you can find. There are still plenty out there. Also be very careful if you travel a long way to look at a possible purchase. Your tendency will be to discount the bad and focus on the good. Be critical and don't dismiss rust as something that can be easily fixed. Unless you are a body man you can easily exceed the value of the vehicle in a body restoration. Even you young guys that have limited funds and are getting impatient don't be too quick to jump. Thats the beauty of the Z,they are plentful and realitively cheap. Thats why few feel guilty about heavily modifying these cars, these are not ferarris.

oil temp sensor

Thanks for the pics mate. I was thinking I had seen that before. That clarifies things. The only other question is would you have to have two BOVs to do this or could you use one bigger one (HKS SSQV) with a wye connection in the hoses that plumbs to both turbos? Might save a little money and its one less thing to break.

I have a related question. If you're running a TT, two MAF setup and factory ECU, is it ok to recirculate the BOV into the front turbo only? The front flange has a port and the rear does not.

For those of you just starting out in this endeavor I would jump on this. As a matter of fact I am, I just paypal'ed Rob for the whole setup. I have the slightly modified 200zr pan that I will gladly sell for the price I paid for it from nismo after I get my new setup from Rob. But, for you RB25/26 guys the sump is inadequate and you will still have to make a pickup. If your a fabricator, know what you're doing and have the time then knock yourself out. I on the other hand am an ameture and don't have the time. I will easily have $10k in the motor, tranny, mounts, wireing, gauges, etc. and for less than $1k I am going to have an expertly made parts by a world class fabricator that will eliminate that crap I cobbled together and protect my investment up to 1000+ hp. For Christ's sake the guy has the fastest 240Z in the world, that just sounds cool. This is a steal deal.

Have you read thru the Chris Rummel Sticky? You should be able to extrapolate the ignition and powering up the ECU from that. I got my RB26 started in a couple of hours by just following that sticky. I will say that some of the stuff is repeated so read it carefully but I think it should get you there. BTW I'm horrible with wiring and the FSM looked like gobbldie gook to me, so this might boil it down for you its only about eight wires and you're blowing smoke.

I posted in the parts wanted for some RB26DETT O2 sensor plugs on the harness side. Someone over at fresh alloy said that any Nissan O2 plugs will work. Can someone confirm which ones? There is one that is square and one that is an oblonged oval. I know I could hard wire it but my mechanic wants to use the plugs. If anyone has any extras lying around it would really help. Thanks Danny BTW the engine bay is looking sweet. Pics to come

Wanted RB26 O2 Sensor Plugs. I need the harness side not the sensor side.THX

Update: It turned out to be severely retarded timing. As a result the plugs were fouling and it was missing on several cylinders. Now its off to the fabricator for custom I/C piping and exhaust. Thanks again for everybody's input it was helpful.

Thanks for the effort Mike. Rayaapp - I was thinking the O2 sensor may not cause this much of a problem. As far as fuel pressure I will pick up a gauge asap. But, I have a brand new walbro 255 and like I said the when I loosened the clamp to the fuel rail and the fuel pressure seemed really strong. Also, it smells rich for sure. noodl35- when its cold I can rev up really high and let off and it will go back to idle. After it warms up almost no throttle and if I do rev it, it putters and coughs and wants to die unless I feather the throttle and sometimes to no avail and it dies anyway.

Mike thanks for the pics but those are not quite detailed enough. Both of my sensors have 3 wires coming off (2 white and 1 black) What I need is a clear picture of both sides of the plugs ie the harness side wire colors.

This brings me to my next point the O2 sensors are not hooked up. My harness was a little hacked up and I don't have the harness side of the connectors. I don't know where exactly the wires are on the harness any pics would help. I realize that this is an import detail to leave out but it slipped my mind and I'm kind of a Jack Ass. As I stated before I would not have ever attempted a swap like this without this board's help, and to this point you have given me enough information to be dangerous. But seriously, I hope I don't burn down my garage.

No the timing was not checked. I don't know how to do that. But the CAS has not moved.