ZROSSA

Couple of things, It seems that you must limit the air into the front end of the z. Once that is done you should vent it through the bonnet(hood). Then the front end of your pan sould be a little lower then the rear before you get to the diffuser part. It seems for a road car that the best thing to do is limit the air under the car. Anything else will only work on the race track. Were do you run the exhuast? I dont mean to be negative. I would like to do the same. Just not sure how yet. Douglas

I have to comment seeing they are from up the road. Nice to see "rock" moving in a different dirrection then the record scratchy copy cats that we have been subjected to over the last few years. When I first heard them I thought they sounded like Fu Man Chu. Another Kiwi band in a similar mould to look out for is "The D4's". Douglas

Propane(lpg) has a higher octane rating, is cheeper(here) and is much cleaner burning so you get less polution. They use it a lot in aussie for taxis and mods on new cars that would not pass the polution inspections. Also it seems to be a way to get around having to lower the compression on high compression n/a engine if run with boost. I have also seen kits for diesel engines. I would like to know more about that. Douglas

I wouldnt be so eager to slot the floor. Square tube can be bent as well. This might be easier. You can also slot the tube and re weld it. I dont know for sure but I get the feeling that if you cut into that floor and start to weld it its going to move around and warp all over the place. Douglas

Mike, There are three different shifters for the supra 5 speed. One of them must fit your aplication so that you dont need to cut up the dash. Look here: http://www.conversioncomp.co.nz/ Douglas

This is all offset dependent. I have 225/50/16's on 7 inch rims and the car is a little lower then standard. About 1 inch. It looks to me that I can fit 245/45/16's easy. I would need to go wider on the rims to do so but there is room. Mine is a 76 260 2+2. Mabye they have a little more room in the guards, allthough i have never heard this. Douglas

A guy named Alan Staniforth has done a few on home designed and built hill climb cars. Fred Phun (sp) does a how to make your car handle thats alright but im kind of guessing that you already know most of whats in there. Carol Smiths books are all good reading. Sae does a lot of litrature but I have never read it. You might be able to get it through your university. Happy hunting, Douglas

Bit of a fan of the scooby. My wife has a early Jap spec legacy wagon with the first of the ej20's in them. Has around 260 hp and gets me in trouble every time I drive it. My father in law has had version 5 sti 2 door wrx. Nice car. Now has a evo 7. Much nicer car. More low down torque and scary fast. The new sti thats out in Japan with 320 hp is a limited edition. Only 200 made and all sold. Mind you it has a 6 speed box and is 100 kg lighter. It should have the evo 7 beaten. Douglas

Thats what happens if you drive a ford to long. Grow boobs that is. Douglas

Russ Have a look in the other 6 cylinder section. Buick v6, Toyota, Nissan a little bit of every thing. Engine weight is not really a issuie. They will almost all be lighter then the original or you can mount them so that they offer a better balance. Why not chose a HP and torque level and then work backwards. You may even achieve what you want by turboing the original engine. With the fuel prices in your part of the world mabye the turbo sixes would be more wise. Mind you they all chew the juice if you use it. Douglas

Russ, From what I have observed over years of reading UK car mags like CCC and Race car engineering, You guys pay more for car parts then we do even in New Zealand. It also seems that the US v8s are a bit "foreign" to a lot of the tuners. They never seem to get really good hp numbers out of them. The rover is a nice unit but as you have seen will cost a lot of $ to get average chevy power out of them. I would just keep looking. You will find one. Even here they are still the best bang for the buck and we live in the land of cheep jap. import engines. Good luck, Douglas

Bit large, arnt they? Mine has 225/50/16s all around. I think your speedo and gearing will be way out. Douglas

Little more info. needed here David. Douglas

Sorry about the link have a look here; http://www.usq.edu.au/users/degroot/240z/Pages/visitors2.htm Third car down. Norway zed. The only thing I would do differently is make it so you could use standard z turning lights and i would replace the square lights with some larger round ones that would mount next to the air inlet for the radiator. Kind of like the Holden C/dore brake ducks in the link below. http://www.hsv.com.au/racing/2002/2002photosf.html I think the air dam on these cars would look great if they were modified to fit on a z. Cheers Douglas

I would be in the market for one. Shipping would be a bit steep over here though. I would not be looking for a msa copy however. I am interested in a over bumper spoiler that is a bit more intergrated then the msa one. The only one I have seen that i really like was buy a chap named Jan Krakevik. http://www.usq.au/users/degroot/240z/images/car/vis/janziskog.jpg I tried to contact him but has no reply. Mabye he doesnt understand english. I think someone else here had the same thing happen. Any way, make me a front end like that and the moneys on the way. Cheers Douglas

Kid-Vid, I have spent days looking for of the shelf 180 degree headers that wil fit. They all go over the back of the engine and on top of the trans. There is a current link in the chevy forum with 1600 convertible with a small block and 180 headers. Look how forward the engine is and a new trans tunnel would have to be made. I would rather run them under the oil pan like on the link a couple of posts up. Mabye start off with some old block huggers and cut them up before the collecters. Make up a plate that you weld to whats left that bolts to a similar plate that the rest of the pipes run from. Pipes from the second plate will run under the pan and to the collecters. This would make it a two piece header but you should be able to get it in without taking the engine out. I am going to give this way a go when the time comes. I would still like to see some hp numbers on a 180 degree system vs a conventional system. I wonder if you just get a torque emprovement in the mid range and no extra hp? Its a confusing issuie that I havent been able to find the answer for. Another thing that might be worth considering and I no even less about is just joining the out of balance pipe to the other side so that you only have two pipes crossing over instead of 4. Look here this guys talk about it a little: http://members.tripod.com/lyc_42/darkside/exh2.htm Happy Researching Dougals

Rumour has it that the car makers have a hell of a time trying to get the Straight 6 to pass saftey requirements. Not much of a crush zone up front. The also nee a higher Bonnet/hood line. Douglas

Doug, That wasnt the one I was thinking about but a good one never the less. I cant find it. You have got the idea anyway. It sound like the first couple of feet on the z are in low presure due to the lip forcing the air else where. This would imply that adding a little dam in this area really wouldnt help. What you need to do is seal the back of the radiator to the vent you make in this dead zone on the hood. The air the has to go there then. Air flow will speed up and your car will run cooler. Then you can think about limiting the amount of air you let in there in the first place. Douglas

Howdy, Have a look around here. http://www.mulsannescorner.com/ lots of good stuff on downforce. 7 degrees is the acepted angle that the air wont seperate from. There are exeptions. Look at the back of any current F1 car and there is more than 7 degrees. I dont know the math behind it though. There really is a lot more to do then just puting one of these on the back. You have got to take the whole car into it. The car needs to be very low. Like 2 inchs of the ground. The underside of the car need to be as smooth as yo can get it. You would really need a belly pan from the front to the back. You also need side skirts. Not like the ones you see for looks. These need to be shaped so that they create a vortex on the side of the car that prevents air getting under the car. The only cars I know of that use this tech. on the streets ate the Ferrari 360 and the Maclaren F1. You will still need to be going pretty fast to notice the diff. I would guess at least 80 mph, more likely 100 + . Mabye have a look around some viper sights. The race ones have a pretty mean one hanging out the back. They must do something. Cheers Douglas

205 hp stock with no intercooler. The fj20 was the basic design that nissan was going to use in F1. Its very strong, a bit heavy but probably easyer to get big hp out of then the sr20. fj20det has one in his Zed. I think. Douglas

There was a wicked thread about this about a year ago. Try to find it. It has input from people who do this kind of thing for a living. Sorry cant remember any name. In the end you want the air exit in a low pressure area. Tape lots of peices of string all over your hood and drive at say 60 mph. Where the string is lifting up is a low pressure area. You could just save the trouble and make a hood like Terry O's. Cheers Douglas

I found this interesting, http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/vehicles/tcpracecar/modifications.html Obvoiusly a better body man then I, but it could be done. Douglas

If anyone is interested.... Have a look here. Third photo down. This could work on a z. http://www.angelfire.com/md3/bmdf/header.htm Douglas

I have got to get one of those crescents. Douglas

Big Chris, Toyota make a 5lt v12 as well. It might be hard to find though. Its in one of there domestic market limo's called a century. Still I think it would be cheeper tham a bmw in our end of the world. Douglas