ZROSSA

There are about three different companys out there that also put 350 chevs into the 911. This hangs out the back like the vw. They say in the chev in the 911 has the same weight distribution as the standard 911 turbo. It has a higher center of gravity though and the turbo was never known for it cornering anyway. Douglas

Thanks John, There will be 3 removable x members underneath to box the trans tunnel to help with torsional stiffness. I thought lateral stifness would be taken care of buy tying into the fire wall and front and rear struts? This would have stressed panels covering it so it shouldnt realy move at all. Lotus have used something similar in there road cars from the 1st elan to the esprit. I believe the viper still uses a back bone as does tvr. I realise that there are beter ways to make a chassis stronger but i think that this could work beter then subframe conecters becuase it can tie in all the suspension mounts as well. Obviously a bit more work though. Any Ideas on tube sizes? Cheers Douglas

Thanks John. I have searched but havent found any photos of the viper chassis. I had an idea that they were not that stiff buy the cages you see in the le mans ones. Buy the way you said that it will be taking the chassis past the norm for a 240 i take it if done properly it will still be way better then stock with a roof? The weak point as you say will be between the firewall and the rear but it will be wellcross braced to limit this as much as possable. Cheers Douglas

Howdy all, I am going to take the roof of my 2+2. I have talked to a few of you already on chassis strengthening but i need a little help on tube sizes. What i am planing to do is make a backbone chassis that is welded on to the trans tunnel. I would be done like a space frame and go through the fire wall so it joins with the struts up front. The back will join to the rear struts in a t shape very much like the older Lotus' the space frame will then have sheet metal welded to it to tie into the tunnel to the space frame. I understand the round tube is the strongest but i would pref to use square as it far easyier for me to fabricate. I dont mind useing round tube to do the x-bracing. What i am looking for is what size tubing should i use. I think i would like 1x2 inch for the main beams so any thing that joins should be 1 inch. What Guage tubing would be good. I would like this as thin as i can get away with. Its not subject to any rules i just want max stifness for min weight. Cheers Douglas

Thanks, This was some time ago and i have had work done on the 600 now so I will be sticking with it. I have slowed down on the engine for a while. The body work needs seeing to first and my other car must come first, My new house before that. Cheers Douglas

I think that being in the U.S. would be the first thing ruling against the rb. If you compare the 2.0 lt rb there really seems to be one answer. The sr is lighter has more/cheeper parts avalable. the power should be similar and mabye work in favour for the sr. It has two less cylinders to drag around. You will also get the weight further back with the 4. It might even pay to look at te ke24 with a turbo kit as well. This is all from a bang for $ piont of veiw, If thats not relavent then the straight 6 always sounds great. Cheers Douglas

You can also use a trans from a front wheel drive car that has the engine mounted north south. Subaru, Audi,and Renualt come to mind. Douglas

Mines a 2+2 as well. I bought it converted and its a bit of a kiwi special ,but very similar to the jtr one. Odd as it may seem, I plane to cut the roof of as well. More to due with rust in the hatch then anything else, however. The chassis looks stronger on the 2+2. As far as I can see the drivshaft is the only diff. Douglas

My fav. book of all time is PERFORMANCE 4 STROKE TUNING by A. Grayham Bell. I learn more everytime I read it. Must be over 20 times now. Imho get it first. For me it made the Vizard and other books easyier to understand. It even has formulas to match exhausts size to your cams and heaps more. Its one of those books that makes you see a lot of the hype in car mags these days. Beware of some mags. Dont forget that they make money buy selling advertising and there projects are seldom paid for out of there own pockets. The guys on this sight are awsume and know there stuff. I never bother going anywhere else unless Grumpy Vette says to. Dont fear to ask away, but dont forget most of what you seek is probably already hear. Welcome Douglas

I should have put quote marks around it. It was from a Jackie Stewart book I read years ago. He felt that when racing there was no additional deceleration to be had from the transmission with modern brakes. I tend to agree. Cheers Douglas

yep, thats what i ment. Douglas

Does the axial flow mean that the compreser is like the ones in jet engines? Or is It just a positive didplacement type? Cheers Douglas

If i could find a large displacement v6 4 valve engine i would go for that. Providing i was starting form the begining. It would have to make an easy 400 flywheel hp and not be boosted. I dont think one exists so i will stick to the small block chev. There is a co in the UK called TVR that has a 4 lt 380hp straight 6. This would be fun but i really want the weight as back as far as i can get it. Douglas

This donk was also in the starion and aussie trucks and sigmas. Some of the aussie have had good results with the engine. Its not much of a rever and the 2.0 lt engine made more power from the factory, But it does make good torque for a 4. I think its still in production in aussie with a 3 valve head. I could stand corrected on that though. Do a search on the aussie sites like AUTOSPEED, FAST FOURS and HOT FOURS. They are bound to have something. The later two have become very ricey over the years so try some ofthe past issiues. Cheers Douglas

Brakes are for braking. Not transmisions. I always found that, for me, the manual trans ment i could be in the gear i wanted to be in when i wanted to be in it. You would also get no driveline jerk if you matched the revs so the car was more stable during the gear change. Auto cars are getting beter but not there yet. The new bmw m3 may be an exeption, but i dont think its been released to the public yet. Douglas

I love superchargers. My wife had a aw11 mr2 for years with a factory supercharger. You could nail that thing at low revs and it would take of with a howl. I kept a 750 sport bike at bay for 40kms (he turned of) through hell twisties in third gear the whole way. Baby forced sale. Douglas

Why? After reading this http://www.hybridz.org//ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001534 It seemed to me like a band aid to get around a design flaw. Correct me if im wrong or totally of the track. Douglas

Isnt the 302 ford lighter then the nissan six? Mount it way back and away you go. Douglas

I thought compression ratios went down because of the fuel quality and the removal of lead. Im going to go with the high compression ratio being better for emissions. Douglas

Dwayne, Is this beasty a 2 seater or 2+2? I have really got to wonder if a 2+2 is worth it seing that heaps came over as jap imports. In saying that, mines a 2+2. So far i have found rust around the hatch, hence i am thinking about converting it to a convertible. I havent climbed under it yet but if the floor and chassis have rust i will take what i want and bin the rest. Cheers for the links, buy the way and I sympathise with you regarding Auckland weather. I put up with it for 20 years. That why I live in the Hawkes Bay now. You wouldnt contemplate a convertible in Auckland. Cheers Douglas

NEED PHOTOS.................please Douglas

Go here, http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html they have lots of names and different air dams. There is also a company in nz called aerotech that does a similar Airdam. The local racer use there one and it looks alright. They were asking $300 nzd for it. Around $240 aud + shiping. They have e-mail, but are not very good at answering it. They do however answer the phone. Let me know if I can be any help. Douglas

Does anyone have a link to see the green conv. z. I checked out the current photos at msa and didnt see anything. This sounds like something I need to see given my current rusty roof situation. Cheers, Douglas

I made up some lower wisbones that moved the lower point where the strut joins the wisbone forward. This obvoisly increases the caster, but that may not be a bad thing on the z. This was on my old corolla. It extended the wheel base around 3 inches. Do something similar and a little massage on the fire wall and it may save you a bit of work. Douglas

I have ordered the video from john at VReng. Hopefully it will get here before x-mas. I will have to get the damn thing converted to work on our tv here. I think we have more dot per inch on our scren or something like that. Pain in the arse. Showcars e-mailed back as well. They want around $5000 usd + an extra $800 for the two plus two. Shame really as a lot of there other stuff seemed good value. The hunt for knowledge will continue Douglas