veritech-z

Here is some more motivation for you:

Speak to the "overall lack of functionality" for a second, I'm curious about that. As best I can tell it covers the fronts of the wheels, leaving the backs open for venting (and the front fenders seem to radius in towards the wheels to ease that transition). It doesn't seem to me to be appreciably different from the IMSA flares, it just has open backs to prevent air from collecting? *edit* Just reread the post, you're talking about the impractical ride height probably? I can't argue the car isn't super low, because it's super low. But that isn't a function of the flares so much as the suspension choices

this is the car that Sung Kang is having Greddy build him to debut at SEMA. They've been chronicling the build for a bit now on their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/SungKangOfficial

Reactions to these flares are fascinating. Also there seems to be three separate threads going talking about this build.

You'd probably like the Star Road kit better then; there are pics in the Non-tech thread

Also this thread is happening down in non-tech if you want to see video of this car getting made: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123679-han-from-fast-n-furious-is-building-a-z/

It'll be interesting to see if they productize it or if it just stays a 1-off SEMA build.

I've seen rocketbunny FR-Ss around town, they didn't seem especially chipped up. You could always do the Porsche 930 thing and put skateboard grip tape on the fronts of your flares to protect against debris. (presumably it isn't actually skateboard grip tape, but if the shoe fits...)

Episode 2 is up: https://www.facebook.com/egarage/videos/892397430797125/

The honda j-series swap is all the rage now in the honda world. http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/htup-1008-j-series-engine-swaps/ Ever since Bisimoto did that 1000hp Oddessy van the word seems to be out. I've seen swap kits to put them into the CRX even. There is a company that's making a swap kit for the miata already, so you may save a little effort by adapting their transmission situation to your application. 1000hp j-series van: miata j-swap kit: http://www.superfastmiatas.com/JV6%20Miata%20Kit.html

The kit in that facebook link is still a 3D render. I wonder if they are going to debut this at SEMA this year? It looks awesome...I'm not sure if I prefer it to the one Star Road showed at tokyo Auto Salon last year or not.

I've been following this on Greddy's facebook page as well. Every time I remember that dude was named "Han Seoul-Oh" in those movies it cracks me up.

I had one for a bit as well on my 77. I was never happy with the fitment either. It was fiberglass, of unknown vintage, and I mounted it up fairly high on the lower valance (which I don't believe is the intended mount location):

While we are selling wheels, I have 17" Impul RS-IIIs laying around, but you need a 1.5" adapter to run them

Or possibly the Work Meister S1 3-Piece: http://www.workwheelsusa.com/product.php?category=29&wheel=85

My vote is SSR Professor SP-1: http://www.ssr-wheels.com/wheels/sp1_17181920.asp

I had a similar rail from JSK on my car that I actually fed from both sides, with the regulator/return line coming off of a port on one of the faces of the rail itself. My rationale, developed from reading up on split fuel rails at the time, was that feeding both sides of the rail would hopefully provide consistent flow to all the cylinders while under load. My concern, possibly unfounded, was that the far cylinder from the line-in side could potentially starve and this should prevent that. You can see how that looked here: It ran fine like that until I added a turbo to the mix without upgrading my injectors and blew the engine.

I still have my Impul RS-IIIs in a stack in the corner of the garage with barely used but old Falken tires on them, 17 X 7 and 17 X 8. I'm in Orlando as well. They need some cleanup, and you'd have to get 1.5" hub adapters to run them, but they're different and you aren't likely to see another set. Dual drilled for both 4X114.3 and 5X114.3. I'd let them go for $650. Here they are on my 280 I no longer own:

Here is an interesting article that talks about cam selection for a turbo motor: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ctrp-1106-turbo-camshaft-guide/ This article alleges that with a modern, high-efficiency turbo you can treat the rest of your build the same way you would for an NA build. That being said, if you are bolting on a stock l28et setup, that probably doesn't qualify as a "modern, high efficiency turbo." For me, the takeaway is probably to do what redzedturbo suggested and just get on the horn with Isky or somebody for a recommendation.

I've been in that situation as well (car can never not be running), and I did a parking lot turbo install. It is definitely easier to just swap the manifolds than to pull the engine if you don't have a hoist or the space. I have also done a parking lot head swap, and that is also easier than pulling the whole engine under those conditions. So is your car running now, and you have an extra cam you need to do something with, or is your car not running, and you have to get this cam situation resolved regardless?

I guess I don't really see how one slowly adds a turbo. You can slowly acquire all the parts, but it's either installed or it isn't. If you're buying a complete l28et, it seems to me that whatever gains you are getting from the overbore on your old block could be had by cranking the boost, and any money you would be spending on that cam regrind could be better spent on an intercooler?

I would encourage you to not do one more thing until you have a definite plan. A turbo build and an NA build are different enough that you are better off picking a direction and committing. Any half measures you do are going to be disappointing and set back your ultimate end game.

Something to remember: advertised wheel width is typically 1" narrower than physical width since it measures the bead seat and not the outside width of the wheel. So a 17 X 8 wheel is actually going to be 9" wide if you bust out the tape measure and do outside to outside.

ZFever is now Feverracing, and seems to have moved on from the early zcar community to Z32 N/A to Turbo and S13/14 swaps. I only dealt with them once back in the day, when I needed some doors. They got me some for the wrong year that had different latch styles, so I had to transfer the guts over to my old ones. Brent from ZDocs was really cool, but he isn't on the Fletcher location anymore for a couple years now. I assumed he closed up shop, but maybe he just moved?

There seem to be a few here in Orlando popping up for sale in the last few months, good luck with it! 1988: http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/5111721786.html