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"Whatever you do, don't get caught." - My Dad

Learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to make them all yourself. -A pilot friend of mine

I think you should use proper grammar in your posts. Capitalization in particular. Then you should look at the bottle you purchased and compare the label on it to the specifications of your transmission.

I'd say put MTL in and see what happens. Swap it out later if it's not better within a week. How many miles per day/week/whatever do you drive? I know what you mean about the early vs late trannys. My 280ZX is an 82, but has an early tranny in it. Plus the 3.9 R200. 1st is damn near useless, and with the wide torque band of the L6 gears like that aren't needed. 3600 rpm on the freeway isn't that much fun, I need a 3.54 rear, at the very least. -Eric

Dave - that's good stuff. Everybody note the GL-4 rating - that's what we need. Flexi - All the fluids we're talking about here are for manual transmissions. No Dexron, Type F, or +4 here. The bad thing is GL-5 (only) rated fluids say for manual transmissions and rear ends on them. They're okay for some newer transmissions without yellowed metals in them, but wreck havoc with ours.

Y'all shouldn't feel that bad. It's real easy to make that mistake the first time, especially with synthetics being advertised as being so good for transmissions, and the weight of the oil being correct. I did it once, and realized within two miles something didn't sound right. Took two changes of oil and a few thousand miles with good stuff in it to get things to settle down. There's still a tiny bit of noise in neutral and reverse, but everything works great now. Be nice if someone who has rebuilt transmissions would chime in here and note which parts of which transmissions are brass or bronze. -Eric

When you say two connectors, do you mean two pins on the top? Or two separate connectors with two pins each? The one with two separate connections of two pins each adjusts timing in a weird way. Make sure your vacuum advance is ported, not constant, and just for kicks adjust your AFM 1/2 to 1 tooth looser to ritchen the mixture. See what happens. I won't be around for the weekend, going sailing, but I'll be back sometime later. -Eric

I kinda doubt the diff is the problem. He's tried two different ones, and in my experience with messed up gears, they work better at low speeds, and catch at high speeds. My grandpa's pickup has a chipped tooth in the 4wd transfer case, so in 4wd you can't go over 30mph, but works fine below that.

The local Kragens (now Oreillys) have Mobil 1 on sale as a buy 4 get the 5th free, limit two free. You can pick up the coupon from the display in the front of the store, good through 9/1/09. They also have 5qts of Castrol GTX plus one Fram oil filter for 15.99, limit 10qts/2 filters.

Slack in a drivetrain normally isn't an issue. As long as there is a smooth and constant amount of power going to the wheels then there isn't trouble. Under no normal circumstances should power be given to and then taken away rapidly. Even new cars will jerk and make clunking noises if you treat their accellerator pedals like the kick button in mortal combat. Your vacuum advance should be hooked up to ported vacuum, so there is no advance at idle, and then once you crack the throttle past perhaps 10 degrees, there is vacuum present. Time the car with that line unhooked and plugged. Which 280ZX distributor do you have? Are there one or two 2-pin connectors on the black box? Verify TDC on #1 with the tool that screws in to the spark plug hole and your rotate the engine by hand, that way you know your dampener hasn't slipped. Also, try enriching your entire fuel mixture by moving the AFM gear one tooth after marking the original position. See if you're running lean. A wideband is ideal, but making small changes to mixture to see what happens works too.

This is the non-turbo car then? Unhook the vac line and drive 100 feet. Just try it. How did you time it?

Try completely unhooking the vacuum advance line from the distributor and going out and back in to your driveway. I'm wondering if you don't have it hooked up to ported vacuum, but constant. -Eric Edit: Wait, aren't you running the turbo ECU with CAS sensor, rather than traditional distributor?