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Today's chemistry lesson. A Ferric Wheel Ortho-Docs Para-Docs

I'm glad I could be of at least a little help. I was just curious about the hydraulic system for the fan, don't worry about it. My curiosity is nothing but that, I dobut I'd ever see one of those systems on my neck of the woods. Your alt might not be regulated by the ecu, I think mine is, but my engine is pretty different, I dunno. The wolf v500 system is awsome, be sure to fill us in with the details if you go for it. I may be completely off base, but I'd immagine that many clutch masters in differant cars have similar throws, the diamter making a notable difference. I suppose the best way to find out what works is to try someting and find out. Be it a relocated stock master, or a short bodied aftermarket.

I found that my t-tops leaked between the seals and the body. I pulled off the seals very carefully, so as not to tear them, then cleaned everything very well. Sealed it all back up with black RTV, and no more leaks! What worries me finding a decently priced source for the rear hatch glass weather stripping. I'm not sure I can remove mine to re-seal it without breaking the window. Neither Black Dragon or MSA carry the seal so I can just cut my old one out and use a new one, not worrying about killing my 800$ glass. Edit: FAST got me part # 90310-P7960. Courtesy Nissan has it for 82$. Ouch. That's the the weather stripping on the rear hatch of my 82 2+2. All S130 2+2s should be the same. 90310-P7900 should be for late 80/81+ two-seaters.

Yup, you're on the right track. They just require a bit of machining. Search, and there's a thread with pictures of all the modifications necessary. The guy had to open up the center hole to fit over our hubs and also took one of the four bolt holes off so he could get the bracket on/off without taking everything apart and pulling half shafts.

Okay, hbz was down from about 10:42 till about 11:02, PST, on 3/13/09. Bloody friday the 13th... Here's what I got. A trace route ended with hop 9, hops 10 and 11 being un-reachable. Here's my trace, with all the important stuff, and the complete (normal) hops below. Failed: Tracing route to forums.hybridz.org [72.214.7.53] 5 12 ms 13 ms 11 ms ex1-p10-0.pxpaca.sbcglobal.net [151.164.190.82] 6 14 ms 12 ms 13 ms 151.164.251.210 7 47 ms 34 ms 35 ms fed1dsrj02-ge610.0.rd.sd.cox.net [68.1.0.207] 8 36 ms 36 ms 34 ms 68.6.8.163 9 35 ms 34 ms 24 ms elcncmtk01-gex0200.sd.sd.cox.net [68.6.11.29] 10 * * * Request timed out. 11 * * * Request timed out. Normal (failed, continued): 8 64 ms 44 ms 25 ms 68.6.8.55 9 26 ms 34 ms 25 ms elcncmtk01-gex0200.sd.sd.cox.net [68.6.11.29] 10 43 ms 41 ms 31 ms wsip-72-214-7-53.sd.sd.cox.net [72.214.7.53] A trace from the east cost shows the last hop before failure to be 68.6.11.25 elcncmtk04-gex0100.sd.sd.cox.net and the next hop is the hbz IP. So it's either a problem with hop 9, the server itself, or Cox communications. Or there's some transparent routing where the server is hosted causing issues. I think it's either the server or a block of IPs with routes miss-configured, or most likely a router at hbz's public IP not working.

What's the ratio of a jack-o'-lantern's diameter to its circumference? Pumpkin Pi. Also - I once knew an optimist who drowned in a half full glass of water.

It happens to me too. Mostly late at night, past midnight-4am. Normally hitting refresh will bring it back, but sometimes it takes a min or two. I didn't mention anything because I don't think it's a problem with the site. For me, I get a "Site not found", not a "Network timeout" error. It happens almost instantly, while a network timeout normally takes at least four seconds, if not longer. Looks more like a DNS error, perhaps something with the routers at the co-lo. Seems to take longer to bring up the error then if it was a core router, but just enough time to hit the destination network. Something that would be great to help diagnose is a network monitor. Sending out pings to hbz every few seconds, and when one fails it captures DNS and route information, seeing how far the ping got and what network it terminated in. I think solarwinds made a great suite for stuff like that, I'll have to check later to see if I still have it.

Hot water with a rubber hose works great for softening it up and letting it stretch over a fitting. Sometimes it just isn't enough though. If you have a really tough one try using a tea kettle that whistles. Get the water in it boiling and hold the end of the hose in the stream of steam. That'll get it really hot without burning or melting the hose. Works great on nylon hose that's easy to crack/split.

I'd love to see pictures of the hydraulic fan mechanisms; pump, motor, etc. My '90 LS400 with a 1UZ has a PITA mechanical fan that lives on its own bracket, driven off the belt. Check http://www.lexls.com in the tutorial section for good info on the power steering pump. Isn't the alt computer controlled, making it hard to go stand-alone? What diameter is the AP racing master you're looking at compared to the stock (on the supra, I guess) one? I've never measured the throw at the clutch rod attachment point on my 280ZX, but from working under my dash on wiring it looked decently long, but with a fair amount of angle change, compared to a straight shot into the master.

Couple of things I might suggest. While no so much specific to your build, just to save you hassle down the road. I'd take a look at the seals on the power steering pump, as those are known to leak. While not such a huge problem in itself, it leaks straight on to the alternator, and that's actually more expensive and a pain to change than the power steering pump. Also, in moving the engine around, be very careful not to bend the blades on the mechanical fan, or any part of the clutch, if you're using it. If it gets un-balanced, it will kill the bearing in the fan bracket. While not a horrid pain to change out, it's not cheap. All this of course on top of the usual timing belt/water pump seemingly-mandatory service. Other than that, you're build is looking simply beautiful. Those engines are very nice to drive, very smooth power. Going super-charged might just be the ticket with such a tight header install, and all those accessories blocking the pipes going forward then back again. For the clutch master clearance issues, you could try moving the master into the firewall an inch or so. Cut the firewall and weld a plate in a bit more into the passenger compartment. Thread the rod down a bit more and play with linkage geometry to keep things from binding. Just a crazy (and possibly impractical and impossible/bad) idea if you can't find something to bolt up and fit. Keep up the great work!

Suzie was in chemistry But Suzie is no more For what she thought was H2O Was H2SO4

No, if we didn't have electricity we'd be sitting around watching TV by candle light.