ktm

I see that many have beat me to the line for the center console. I had visions of doing the same (console) for my car. Amazing vision and execution.

Pallnet offers a metric grade 10.9 exhaust stud kit for $30.

Ron, how did you hang that plate off that supports the coils?

Are those AFR's correct? You unhooked the FPR? I am assuming you unhooked the boost reference port. If that is so, then why are your AFR's showing that you got richer with boost as opposed to leaning out? The stock ECCS does run rather rich on boost, then it starts to lean out at the higher RPMs. Your AFR curves show that you get richer with your RPMs. Here is a good link that describes a similar setup as yours and similar results: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=88752&highlight=stock+afr

I am going to have a few ancillary parts of my engine either plated or powder coated, but I do not know which would be better. I am having all my nuts, bolts, hard line supports brackets, throttle linkage, injector plates and bolts, oil pan bolts, etc. plated with a shiny zinc plating. I am thinking about either plating (with black zinc chromate) or powdercoating the following: Fuel pump blockoff plate Timing chain inspection plate Water pump pulley Alternator pulley Alternator fan T-stat housings (this may be a problem plating as they are aluminum) Thoughts/suggestions are more than welcome.

Also, Tony D indicated that you do not need to source different straps, simply use a longer J-bolt. I have not confirmed this myself. I just had my 240z tank modified by a local speed shop that specializes in custom fabrication.

Based on an 82 FSM, the yellow wire connects to the 'thermal transmitter' or water temperature guage. The problem is that there are a few coolant temperature sensors on these cars and you are only talking about one. All of the other coolant sensors have plug connections or two wires. Only the coolant temperature sensor used for the gauge has a single bullet connection.

I am in the final stages of acquiring the necessary parts to complete my turbo build. I've been thinking about the electrical connections and have come up with the following setup. I will use use the following fuse block (top one): Marine Block for my power distribution. I see no reason to run a terminal block and a fuse block separately as this fuse block solves both issues. I will then run power on the fused side of the connection to each of the following relays: two for the headlights, up to two for the fan (if a two speed fan), EMS, fuel pump, and whatever else I can think of. The cost is slightly more than if I went with a terminal block and a generic, non-weatherproof fuse block, however, it is not that much more. Since nearly all of my relays are for 'external' components, it makes sense to have a fuse block in the engine bay. Thoughts?

I managed to drill 95% of the stud out. I have remnant threads left in the hole though. I was able to drill straight and true and only kissed the back of the hole once with the drill (was not expecting the breakthrough).

1) Stroker turbo and cheap do not go together. 2) You need to search more, because many people are pushing over 350 hp on stock block, head, cam, etc. I am putting together a build that should net me an easy 325 whp when done, and I am not doing any sort of head work, boring out cylinders, or lengthening the stroke.

I do not plan on using any EZouts or extractors. I have read far too many horror stories about them. If need be I will either drill it out using successively larger bits or use the reverse drill bits you mentioned. I am just concerned about being too far off center and doing serious damage.

I have never had to remove a sheared bolt/stud out of a head before, and I am leary to learn on my P90a. The engine is on a stand and both manifolds have been removed. The stud by cylinder 1 snapped flush with the head. I have read about drilling out the stud, but I am a bit concerned about my abilities to do it properly. I know that I can always 'correct' any overdrilling by either going to the next size up or installing a helicoil. Is there anyone in the Orange County area that may be able to help me out? I have a drill, Dremel and Craftsman tap/die set.

I just purchased one from Ron Tyler. I just need to show him da' money now.

24OZ, I found this supplier of surge tanks in Australia: http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.php?products_id=123 Very nice looking pieces. I went to my local custom speed engineering/fabricating shop next to my office and talked to them about fabricating a tank for me. He suggested that I let him modify my gas tank, welding in baffles and changing the pick-ups to 3/8-in. supply and return with AN fittings. Cost? Around $300. I've decided to go this route instead of the surge tank route. By the time you throw in the cost of the tank and shipping, plus the second pump, you are around $200. I am going to use relays for my pump(s). I am going to order my relays, wires, and connectors from Waytek. The only issue I have now is what Bosch relay do I order? I bought a used Holley Red pump for around $32 that I will no longer need. I'd be willing to let it go for around $25 plus shipping if interested.

Your best bet to achieve a good A/F ratio with SUs is to invest in a Colortune. Other than that it is as ezzzzzzz said.

I read about your expansion tank setup. Unfortunately it would require welding, a skill I do not possess at the moment (though I have always wanted to learn). I have figured out my mounting location. I have a spare set of the vertical plates that go on either side of the differential. I will use on of those as a mounting bracket for a side-mount surge tank. I will then run the EFI pump where Tony mentioned and the low pressure pump near the stock location.

Well, I certainly learned something new. I did not even think about furniture dollies.

Believe me, I searched and searched. I found a company in Australia (what is it about Australia and cars - they have all the EMS companies and surge tank manufacturers) that produces a variety of tanks with different mounting options (bottom, top and side mounts). The easy solution is to mount the tank in the engine bay. There is plenty of room on the passenger side and you can easily locate the EFI pump below the tank. The problem comes from trying to mount the surge tank by the gas tank. I see a nice flat spot between the gas tank and the moustache bar where a top mounted tank could fit. However, I do not see a good place (mind you I was looking underneath the car without it being jacked up) for the EFI pump since it should be located beneath the outlet of the surge tank. Aside from heat issues and the safety aspect, is there a reason not to mount the tank in the engine bay? Is there another good spot to locate the tank?

It sounds like the previous owner did not take good care of the car. This would lead me to believe that it may need a good tune up. Your problem can be caused by a number of things such as fuel starvation, weak spark, bad distributor, etc. I would suggest a few things: 1) Replace the distributor cap and rotor unless you know when it was replaced. You could be getting a intermittent spark or a weak spark. 2) Check your plugs and replace if necessary. I suggest NGK plugs. 3) While the engine is running, pull a spark plug wire off a plug and listen for a change in tone. If there is a change, that cylinder is firing. If not, you know that one cylinder is not firing. This is just a trouble-shooting technique. If the plug looks fine was replaced and the distributor cap/rotor were replaced, you may be looking at new plug wires. 4) Check your valve lash and set accordingly if necessary. 5) Check your timing as well and set accordingly if necessary. 6) Your carbs have a mixture adjustment nut on the bottom. Screw them all the way up and then back them out 2-1/2 turns. This will get you close to the mixture, assuming your carbs are synched. 7) Check and replace your fuel filter unless you already have. 8) Have you checked the float bowels to make sure that the banjor fitting, screen, needle valve and float are working correctly? 9) What does your gas look like? Is it clear or colored? 10) Have you checked to make sure your carbs are functioning properly? Do the dampers have oil? Do they have the right kind of oil? Are you able to lift the piston on the bottom of the carb? Does it return with a clunk (it should)? Finally, I see that you are in So. Cal. Pop N Wood has a pair of downdraft Webers and I have a pair of round-top SUs I could make you a deal on (I live in Irvine).

Thanks to a poster over at Classiczcars.com: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21488

Pop N Wood, by no means am I slighting Hybridz. I have found through my own experience, though, that the archives here tend to be lacking for addressing stock L24 issues. I am not saying that Hybridz'ers do not appreciate a stock Z, simply that other sites may have more information, as well as members who are more knowledgeable, about the stock 240z. Hell, I a member of the three big'uns (Zcar.com, Classiczcars.com and Hybridz.org) and I routinely search all three places for my information.

Thanks again for the trade! I am quite stoked, as that cover looks beautiful.

Understood. Hybridz may not be the place for many of your inquiries though. You should really check out Classiczcars.com. They cater to purists such as yourself. This site is more geared towards folks who do swaps. I am not saying that you won't find help here, but there is a wealth of information on stock cars over there, I would venture to say even more information than would be found here.

Convert over to electronic ignition with a Crane XR700 or Petronix system and ditch the points entirely. Hell, have I got a deal for you. I pulled the distributor off my running 240z as I am dropping in a 1983 turbo. The distributor already HAS a Crane XR700 system installed. I can sell you the complete system (optical sensor already installed, ignition box, etc.) for cheap + shipping. Drop me a PM if you are interested.

I thought so based on a few discussions I have read, but better to ask than ASSume.