ktm

I agree with everyone else above. If you want a V8 powered Z, then you've found your car. They have done all of the hard work already and you know it runs. You can now customize it to your hearts content and make it yours.

'72 240z. I've owned it for a little over a year now. So far I've made the following modifications: Tokico HP Blues and Springs Urethene Bushings ST Sway Bars Swapped R-180 for 3.545 Gears L28ET Swap Wolf V500 EMS T03/04E 0.63 A/R 50 trim water-cooled turbo Supra 440cc injectors 1978 280z 5-speed 60mm T/B N-42 non-egr intake

Cygnus, it's wrinkle black. Mike (2003Z) powdercoated the valve cover, intake, water pump pully, alternator bracket, alternator pulley and fan, upper and lower t-stat housings and oil pan all wrinkle black. I had a local shop powder coat the other parts with textured black. The exhaust manifold is ceramic coated. I hope it runs as good as it looks too! I will be wiring it up over the next few weeks and start up will be in a couple months. I can't wait.

Ron, I inquired about extrude honing the intake and the cost outweighed the benefit. I spoke to JeffP on Zcar.com who had his intake extrude honed and he said it cost him around $300. When I inquired it was closer to $600. For that money I can buy a Lonewolf intake. For the time being I will just use this N42. In a couple years (or next year) I'll probably buy a Lonewolf. With the money I already have invested in this one (cost of the intake, powdercoating, shaving/welding, etc.) I would be nearly 2/3 of the way to a Lonewolf. Live and learn. Hugh, the coil packs are completely mounted. What is not clearly evident is that there is another bar running below the top one which secures the coil packs. There are two struts that attach the setup to the block. I used 6mm allthread rod and 5/16 aluminum tubing. The four end pieces of tubing have a slightly thicker wall diameter than the rest. I tapped these pieces with a 6mm tap and use them to secure everything.

I used a fitting provided by Stealthmodeperformance.com. It's a BSPT to NPT adpater. The end of the fitting is 1/8 BSPT female and 1/8 BSPT male. The fitting for the oil feed is NPT. I had to buy the 45 degree fitting separately (they provide a 90 degree).

Yorgo and his dad helped me install my L28ET earlier today. It only took us 4 hours after a few trials (destroyed the first rear main seal we installed, hoist arm was not set long enough, etc.). However, we did get it in the end. I am using a T03/04E, 0.63 a/r 50 trim turbo with 360 degree thrust bearings and water cooled section. You can see how I routed my coolant lines in the photos. I am also using a Wolf V500 EMS and will be using LS1 coil on plugs for spark. Fuel lines are SS braided lines by Earls and Goodridge. I have a Walbro pump installed and my fuel tank has been modified. I modified my throttle linkage to accept a throttle body quarter off of a Toyota Camry. The stock linkage can be readily tapped for an 8mm bolt, which is the perfect size for the quarter. I need to install the radiator, electric fan, intercooler and piping, and exhaust. Now, onto the engine pics. I have a few pics of the tranny tunnel after I coated it with POR15 and Chassis Coat, but those can wait.

That'll do. Thanks. Sometimes the solution is so obviously simple that it eludes us.

To be honest I have not dropped the motor back into my car. I did the modification after doing a bit of research here on Hybridz regarding routing the coolant line for the turbo. I live in southern California, so I am not worried about cold starts. I have also ditched the AAR as I am going with a modified build (Wolf EMS, T03/04, N42 non-egr intake, etc.). Finally, since I have basically rerouted the bypass line to pass through my turbo instead of my TB, I solved the issue that mobythevan talked about in the thread referenced by naviathan. I know that the Subaru Impreza's have a similar coolant line running to their TB and one of the common mods is remove it.

I am about ready to drop my motor and transmission back into my car. I need the pressure plate bolts and bell housing bolts (I can't find my old ones) for a 280zx L28ET and 280z five speed. Does anyone know what the lengths are for the PP and the four bell housing bolts? Thanks

I am using that line to feed my water coolant section of my turbo. I have bypassed the TB fittings (and removed them from my TB).

That's what I paid as well for mine shipped.

Thanks for the offer. I am looking for a confirmed appointment, as I need to make arrangements with the family if I am going to occupy a large block of time.

I am dropping in my L28ET into a 1972 240z. The engine and tranny will both go in at the same time. I am looking for an extra set of hands to help guide the assembly into place without slamming into the painted engine bay. I live in Foothill Ranch, CA, right off the CA241. I can be reached at 714-415-8249. I have all the tools necessary and will have a hoist and load leveler. I would like to receive this as a 'favor' and will most certainly return the favor in kind. All food and beverages are on me. Thanks, Bo

Count me in as well. I commented on them at Justin's house and really liked the look of them.

Slow Old Car, my original post is a few months old. I am a looooon ways down the build path now. I just purchased my clutch and flywheel (ACT clutch, Fidanza flywhee) and the engine is ready to go back into the car. My fuel system did cost about 2.5 times as much as I originally planned. I was going to go with hardline, but I went with Earl's braided SS front and back with their Ano-tuff fittings. I picked up a Walbro GLP392 (?) pump and a 40 micron filter. I found a screaming deal on some used Supra injectors ($50 shipped for all 6) and had them cleaned and tested by Mr. Injector. I've priced things out a bit more as I've been going along. So far, with my aftermarket EMS, powder coated parts, fueling, turbo, etc., I am rapidly closing in on the $6000.