ktm

Why are you running larger injectors? Your stock injectors are fine with your stock turbo, even with 10 to 12 psi.

He occassionally lists a fuel rail on ebay for the 280z with a Buy It Now option. If you want one, just look on Ebay. Pallnet makes a great fuel rail as well.

My mistake on this one. I had the wrong o-rings on the injectors. As soon as I replaced the o-rings with the correct set the injectors seated correctly. Thanks for the replies.

When I bought my injectors off of Ebay, I asked that the seller include the injector clip pigtail shown in the auction. The clips are generally in good shape, though a couple have a broken locking clip. Does anyone know of a source where I can buy new injector clips for these injectors? Thanks.

I have a set of the 440cc Supra turbo injectors. I am nearing the completion of my engine build and I test fit the injectors in the manifold. The injectors ends fit into the ports in the intake without the o-ring installed. However, if I put the stock o-ring on the injector end, the o-ring seats itself outside the port. My question is should the end of the injector slide into the manifold port with the o-ring attached? The end of the injector is larger than the OE pintle cap. Thanks.

Monossi, I figured it was a balance mark, but it seemed rather excessive to me. Thank you for your insight.

The marks on the edges of the blades are grind marks. The central shaft right below the nut is scored as shown in the picture.

As the title says, does this look right for a compressor wheel. This is a Garrett T03/04E turbo:

This thread was duly highjacked. I will say that I was able to mount my Walbro pump using the stock captive nuts in the crossmember and the two mounting brackets that came with the pump. Since my pump lies on its side as opposed to the Holley's, etc. that must be vertical, it worked out well.

5-slot Mags 14x7 Western Turbines

Wolf V500 here as well. I will be using it to control 6 injectors and 6 LS1 plug on coils.

My name is Bo McCoy. We talked for a bit at the show on Sunday (I told you I was going to buy 73Greenmachine's LSD). I live near Irvine. Feel free to drop a line if you need some help.

I am very excited to hear that VG's were tested and that the Supra 'wing' (the '06 STi has a similar 'wing' at the top of the rear window too) was on the list as well. I had a feeling that VG's would go a long way to improving the airflow over the back end of the car. I am looking forward to seeing the pictures and reading more about the results. See you on the road.

There've been a few used ones for sale recently. Check out Zcar.com 70-83 tech forum and do a search on stroker, 3.1, etc. Two of these were for sale in California. If you are willing to spend up to $5,999 for an engine, why not front the additional $1000? Also, the last time I called Rebello (9 months ago), their stroker build was not that expensive. If you can source the crank, block and head, you are golden. I seem to recall the entire build was around $5000 to $6000 and that included a set of triple Mikunis.

The moustache bar (and the two adjacent upright supports) are made of a hellaciously strong metal. It will take a machine shop to drill it. Saying that, I would be leary of drilling the moustache bar. It is a spring and does flex under load.

Damn Mike, sorry to read that you are going to have to tear it all down again. I am praying that I will not suffer the same fate once I get my engine installed. While I am not doing any headwork or replacing the head gasket, I am a little concerned about the gasket (no reason, only paranoia).

I am incredibly jealous. I am still a ways away from dropping my engine into the car. It looks and sounds like it's coming along very nicely.

Ah, so you bailed on my ECU. Thank you for notifying me /sarcasm.

I had him powdercoat my N42 non-egr intake, oil pan, t-stat housings, fuel pump and head cover plates, alternator fan/pulley and bracket with crinkle black. They came out amazing and his prices were incredible. Pics below. Thanks again Mike!

I was going to originally run the along the bottom of the tunnel. However, after mocking up my fuel pump location (Walbro), I could not see how I was going to get the line to the fuel pump. It looks like your system is low enough to allow you to go underneath the moustache bar. Thanks for the reply.

I am running stainless steel braided lines for my supply and return on my L28T swap. Right now I am in the process of mocking up my route using 5/8" clear plastic tubing which is approximately the same diameter as the -6 braided line I am using. I am wondering where I should route the lines. I had an epiphany when mocking up one route. One alignment has it running down the driver side of the tranny tunnel, over the ebrake bracket, between the ebrake plate, and then overtop the differential. This aligns the supply line perfectly with the outlet of the fuel pump (to be placed on the inclined surface above the rear frame rail). However, it's a tight fit and I was worried about abraiding the SS line. After looking at the clear tubing, I then thought that I could sleeve the fuel line with a clear plastic line (wall thickness is substantial) until I get far enough up the tranny tunnel to then use brackets. Thoughts? Also, where have some of you, who are running braided lines all the way up and back, routing your lines?

Damn Mike, I am sorry to hear that. Are you going to take everything off again and recoat?

I am not familiar with Webers. On SUs, you adjust the mixture using two nuts located on the bottom of the carburetors. If you put SUs on an L28, you may need to switch to a larger needle (other than the stock needle that came with the SUs on an L24) otherwise you could start to lean out at higher RPMs. There has got to be a similar way to adjust Webers. Think of the needles/jets as coarse tuning and the mixture nuts as fine tuning.

They are two entirely different tools used to "measure" to different parameters in your engine. The unisyn measures airflow, the Colortune "measures" air/fuel ratios. You should use both to properly tune your car. Do you need to use a unisyn? Yes. Do you need to use a Colortune. No, however, you will have no way to 'precisely' (I say 'precisely' because you are not actually measuring your A/F ratio) measure your A/F ratio. The purpose behind the unisyn is to synch the airflow between the carburetors. Once the airflow is synchronized, you can then use the Colortune to adjust your fuel, but either adjusting the mixture nuts, or changing jets/needles. Others will use a narrowband O2 sensor to measure their A/F ratio.

Agreed, however, it is not that easy. While you can easily reskin the roof, remember that the roof is convex and would require a bit of shaping. Otherwise you'll be using quite a bit of bondo/filler to form the correct shape.