datman

Before and After

Good idea, Thanks

On this subject I finally got around to sorting an old p90 out for modification. I commissioned a local company to make certain changes to the head. Stage 1 will be to strip it and acid dip it to clean out the internal water ways. Stage 2 will be to modify the combustion chamber (pics to follow) Stage 3 will be to tap into the water jacket for each chamber and route to a common manifold. Finally the combustion chamber will be ceramic coated. I'm looking forward to comparing the head to the standard p90 I'm running right now. The combustion chamber mod looks to be different from any I have seen on here so far. I will post up pictures as they send them to me. I'd like to thank the guy that cut the heads into cross sections, the pictures have been of great help.

I have a spec 11lb flywheel and a Spec 3+ clutch and never had an issue, very light on the pedal and copes with 350ft/lb all day long.

I have Falken FK452's, they are excellent in wet and dry conditions.

Here is what I did to my struts

I know a guy that used to work for Toyo in the development dept... he said " To drive a car with 888'sin the rain is insane"

I had this probelm on my VW TDI van from a sticky VNT mech..it eventualy failed big style and burst the intercooler!! luckilly for me it was under warranty

I think its been mentioned on here before but I was looking at the cooling system on my 72 Alfa GT junior yesterday, It has a pipe from each cylinder back to a common rail then joins the thermostat housing..very neat solution for such an old engine and its only a 1.3L. I'm going to copy that onto my car.

At what Rpm do you get that torque? mine is a similar setup and I get 316lb ft@4163rpm 275bhp @ the wheels@5750 rpm something is not right!

Sorry to hear about your car. A cheap way of fitting a tracker... get an old cellphone and set it to silent / auto answer. Use and old phone charger and hard wire it in to the 12v line, hide the phone somewhere in the car and register it with a phone tracking company. You can pretty much pinpoint the car and also listen to the people in the car if you like.

I had problems with pinking on my engine for some time...I have a knocksense kit fitted and it would flash under full load at 4000 ish rpm 12psi boost 18deg timing.....I couldn't hear it so I suspected I had sensitivity too high on the knocksense box....I dropped the boost and tried again and had no warning flashes.....I fitted a heatshield under my inlet manifold/fuel rail and took 2 deg timing off the the problem areas and it stopped. I would imagine plenty of engines are knocking slightly....not enough to cause instant failure but not good in the long term. Great Thread though, I think I will modify my spare head.

The main problem is when changing the pulley for another which has a different diameter, that puts the TDC mark out of alignment with the marker (which can be off anyway). Remove #1 spark plug and slide and alloy rod into the bore, turn the crank by hand until the pistons stops and scribe a line on the marker inline with the notch on the pulley, then turn the crank the other direction until the piston hits the rod again and scribe another line...divide the space between the 2 lines and you will have TDC....well near enough anyway.

Mikeatrpi.....you will need to change that clear hose coming from your manifold if it runs to anything other than the boost gauge....when the engine bay gets hot that kind of tube goes very soft and will collapse under vacuum......I found out the hard way

I was thinking that my injectors make more noise because they are low imp. and run at a very low duty cycle at idle so they slam open and shut. It does sound a lot worse on video.