Mike C

You can do a ton of work and make it flow at higher rpms, but you seemed more like a cheap guy like me! I like the '82 cars a lot, but they are so expensive, if you need just a little work done, you'd be far and away ahead buying a car in good shape. JTR sells a GM TPI/TBI fuel injection swappers guide that is as useful as the Z conversion book. If nothing else, the crossfire should woul look neat in the Z!

Doesn't titanium have a very large growth factor when subjected to heat? I think this causes troubles with mounts in addition to the price. Even mild steel exhaust systems "grow" in length when hot. Make sure you have good mounts that will take into account this factor. The rod in the bushing of new cars works well and is there precisely for this reason.

The front rear weight thing can make a difference, but the left to right should not in an IRS setup if memory serves. Seems to me it would be better to get more weight OFF the front than add more weight to the rear.

Are you talking about the gear setup itself? If so, you can get a universal carrier shim set for about $20 and change the backlash setting quite easily. Probably worth while it it is the one thing buggin' ya'!

Are you talking about the gear setup itself? If so, you can get a universal carrier shim set for about $20 and change the backlash setting quite easily. Probably worth while it it is the one thing buggin' ya'!

Doing a crossfire conversion is no more difficult than a TBI or TPI conversion. The problem with the crossfire is the wet flow long runners have trouble with fuel falling out of suspension as well as higher rpm air flow. It is an excellent setup for a Jeep or other offroader. I use to refer to my L-83 ('84 Corvette) as the ultimate tow truck motor. Free is free. Swapping the intake for a carbed setup would allow you to move the power range up. One thing about a used crossfire motor is chances are it hasn't been over-revved! BTW, if you wan to sell the rear end, I need a complete disc brake trailing arm setup to convert my drum brake '64 to discs. I'd be willing to buy front setup as well if price was right. (I've got one set already, but hey, spares can't hurt!)

Hmm. First sign you're getting old is you can't REMEBER how old you are (trust me I resmeble that...) I'm 34, still immature and still wasting my hard earned money! (at least that's what my wife tells me) I think you are going about it right. Nothing wrong with the 280 swap. 280 makes a better daily driver for the most part as the extra weight and sound deadening makes for more comfort. The climate control system is better, too. Just find yourself a donor car for drivline. I think an L69 305 HO 5 speed Z/28 would be a good start and should be cheap as well. You could probably even sell off enough parts to pay for the whole enchilada.

Really this is a personal question, I guess. If it were me, I would continue working on the car, get all of the bugs sorted out, save some more money, and build another motor. This is me however and I wouldn't have to shell out any $ for a rebuilder. Especially if you are planning on different heads, cam, etc. Just put them all on the new assembly but enjoy the car in the mean time.

Pete, did you ever solve your rotor probs?

I believe ALL of the European cars got the 5 speed from the first 240's on up. It's hit or miss on yours from our perspective! In '75 on up all of the manual trans US cars got the r200, but some autos had the r180. Look for the bolt on bearing retainers behind the half shaft flanges. Also, I have seen at least two different style r180s. One that has the exact same halfshaft as the r200 and one that is different where it attaches to the diff.

Also check and make sure the cam was installed correctly. That can really play havoc with a motor. SOunds like my 2.4l motor that just quits at 4500 or so. It is my 3rd 240 and by far the slowest! I'm really looking forward to having the time to drop the 2.8l motor in.

You can always trigger your MSD from a points distributor. Using the points as a low voltage switch gives them a life span 10 times that of a regular points ignition. Just adjust to accomodate block wear every couple of years. Also, things like dwell will be controlled by the MSD. Works really well actually.

The small cap distributor showed up in '88 I believe. It is on ALL fuel injected V8's. You can also buy them new from Holley, MSD, and GM as well. In the GM performance parts catalog, I think they are $150.

Swapping the LSD is not hard. IF you keep pinion depth where it is at. Just measure the backlash of the 3.90 before removing the open diff using a dial indicator. Then when reinstalling the ring gear on the LSD, just set it so the backlash is the same as it was to begin with. You can get universal carrier shim sets at a local driveline shop. Check your pattern and good to go. Once again, PAYING for the LSD, whether it is from the boneyard, NIssan or wherevver is the hard part!

The ford rear is NOT 100# lighter than a GM 10 bolt. They are very close to the same weight. In equivalent axle lengths. Also, which 10 bolt? THere is an 8.2" ring gear, 8.5" ring gear, 7 1/2" ring gear and 7 5/8" ring gear. THe smaller the gear, the lighter the housing. Give or take a few pounds. The GM uses a cast housing and stamped cover. The Ford uses a stamped housing and a cast center section. Axle tube thickness of both is equal at ~1/4". This changes depending on what vehicle the housing was designed for however. Both uses 3" axle tubes (8.5" 10 bolt and 9" late model cars use smaller axle tubes to get weights down but limit you to axle diameter spline count)The center of the Ford is larger than the GM and the lower pinion placement of the Ford requires more clearance above the "pumpkin" than the GM design in order to maintain same u-joint angles. It also costs about 1-1.5% in frictional losses compared to the GM. Stock-to-stock, strengths are approximately equal. Advantage Ford with their non-tapered axle and availability of aftermarket parts, but if you have to buy axles, differentials, and gears it's pretty much a wash except for having to pony up for the c-clip eliminator on the 10 bolt. 33 spline axles are max for the 8.5" 10 bolt while you can go at least 35 spline on the Ford.

Some 72's have inertial reel seat belts. My November built car did not, but my January built car does. My November car did have the pockets, however. The top of the strut towers is different for where the retractable shoulder belts mount, but could be modified with some difficulty. I have a complete set of belts from a '78 I'll sell for $50.

I have not run an Accelerator, but I have used the Torker II. It made no more power than the dual plane 8004 it replaced by my butt-o-meter. It reduced some low speed output I thought, but gained nothing on top. I replaced mine with a GM high rise dual plane (67-69 Z/28)Either of the little single planes will be useable for a street car with a cam in the 220-230 degrees of duration, but I think you will have better luck with an Edelbrock Performer RPM. If you really NEED the added plenum volume/flow of a single plane intake, I would just get a Victor Jr. I would like to make a good recommendation for your motor, but really need more specs. Making some assumptions, 355 ci, 9.5:1 compresion, 230 @.050 cam with .480 lift I would buy the Performer RPM and a 750 double pumper.

I'm not sure that it has to be a particular brand... It just has to be designed for the pull-off clutch. So you cannot use a regular SBC style flywheel. But surely somebody other than GM and Centerforce makes the flywheel for the pull-off setup, somebody other than Centerforce probably makes the pull-off compatible flywheel for the two piece rear seal. RAM and McLeod would be good places to start.

Yes. And no. In the 60's they had capacitive discharge ignition that was optional on high performance cars. It is expensive and hard to come by. The later model cars have a smaller cap "HEI" ignition, but they are computer controlled. Some of the new electronic ignition curve boxes might be adaptable, however. I bought the MSD ready to run distributor. Uses the old points style cap and you just hook up two wires.

I had a buddy looking at building a Cobra kit and the E type was the diff of choice, but they were outlandish at something in the neighborhood of $2500 complete. While the more common/pedestrian XJ6 setup can be had for $500.

I've had a couple. Weiand model 8004. I ran one in '85 on the Camaro and replaced it with a Torker II. Bad choice I thought. I have one on my JImmy now. It makes good power to 5500 rpm or so. Just base that on what cam you will use as anything over 220 at .050 will want the added plenum volume of the Performer RPM or the Weiand Stealth. (Holley 300-36 and the LT-1 intake fall in here as well.)

All small blocks have forged rods. The LT-1 should have a forged crank as noted above as well as forged pistons. Just be careful as a lot more people seem to have LT-1s for sale than were ever made. Rocker studs. If it is a real LT-1 they have a hex head at the base where it "srews" into the head rather than the standard pressed in stud. It it does not have the big valve/screw in stud heads, it's value is diminished significantly. Screw in studs can be added as can big valves, but seldom do you see the unshrouding cut in the chamber wall unless it was factory. If you had casting numbers and dates you could better ID said motor. Figure a steel crank (wide parting line on the outside of journals vs. the narrow cast parting line) 4 bolt short block is worth $300 or so. So much depends on used stuff whether or not it is rebuildable and if so, how much machining does it need? A block that cleans up at .030 is worth more than one that will take .040 or .060. Same as a crank. One that goes .010/.010 is worth lots more than one that will take .030/.030 although it will still be better than a cast crank IMO.

They do have inboard brakes and they are a first class PITA! Both to change pads and for parts. And you only THINK car parts are expensive until you work on a jag...

If it is rebuildable, it is easily worth it. Look for screw in studs and guide plates. If the large valves are factroy installed, the will have unshroud cuts in the chamber. It should also have a steel crank and 4 bolt mains. These engines used the "pink" rods, basically a truck rod that was shot peened and magged, they were marked with a pink paint blaze that may or may not still be there. They also had windage trays and aluminum high rise intake and aluminum finned valve covers. A 1970 model will have dome pistons, while the 71-72 is flat top. They also had mechanical lifter camshafts. Be careful though, in 73 they went to L82 which also has big valves but in an open chamber head, but no longer got the aluminum intake or mechanical camshaft and value will be reduced significantly IMO, but might still be worth $550 if it is comlete.

I have the slightly smaller Carter 5 psi street pump. I mounted it on one of the rear suspension verticals. I bought a CP products chrome regulator. It goes from 1-5 psi. A lot of other companies including Mr. Gasket have a similar one ~$25. Give Summit/Jegs a call and tell them what you're looking for. I upgraded to this for my 2.8l motor and triple Del'Lortos that's on the stand in the shop waiting for me to have time...