Zmanco

Please read this thread from the beginning. Your questions are all answered in it.

When I rebuilt my L28 last year I was unable to find any sources of oversize rings for a stock bore. In the end I went 20 over (10 over pistons were too long of a wait). I purchased a set of ITM pistons and rings from BAP-GEON. The top ring is Moly and the rest cast iron. They weren't too much more than just buying rings. BTW, I went through 3 sets of rings (bought and returned) with incorrect (too large) end gaps before I settled on the ITM set. Even these had to be gapped. My point is that I had a heck of time finding the rings I wanted. There just aren't that many choices left if you want a Moly top ring.

I already had a can of fix-a-flat in the car. If it's worse than that, then it's a flatbed home or to the nearest tire shop.

Funny you say that: earlier this evening it dawned on my how stupid I would feel if that's where I would have figured this out. It got me thinking about what else have I overlooked... For now, that's all I can come up with

I knew my original spare's rim wouldn't clear the Toyota 4x4 calipers up front, but until tonight, I hadn't thought about the 240sx calipers in the rear. Turns out the stock rim won't clear them either. No point in leaving it in the car - and it weighs 40 pounds. Outrageous considering how small the tire is.

You might try going out and getting some heat in the brakes, and then quickly pulling the wheel while it's still hot to look for interference and/or something rubbing etc.

Actually, I already have an adjustable prop valve. The problem is that even with the valve all the way open, I have too much brake up front. My hope is to use a pad with a higher coefficient of friciton in the rear so I can start to use the valve to adjust the balance.

Especially with the 240sx conversion - you have to pull the caliper off to change the pads, and then if you're not careful, the rotor will literally fall off And to top it all off, a pair of rotors is cheaper than a set of pads.

I decided to try the Hawk HP Plus. Thanks for all the inputs everyone.

John, I don't have quite as much torque as you do , but I am planning to do exactly what you describe. If the R/T mount can limit the nose of the diff to rise no more than some small amount (not sure what the optimum amount is as I haven't installed mine yet), then the stock mount should be able to keep the nose located without failing over time. This should also keep things quiet. That's my thinking, and plan. Sounds like a few others have already gone down this path with success.

A thermostat enables the engine to operate at a consistent temp regardless of the ambient temperature. It also helps it warm up faster, but for a modern engine (certainly one running FI), I suspect that is a secondary benefit.

One other thing to consider: the size of the hole in the thermostat varies by brand. I had a Stant and later put a Nissan unit in (both were 180). The Stant had a significantly smaller opening than the Nissan. I was pretty surprised - I just figured that all thermostats would have the same size opening.

Greg, yes, mainly street with a few hard track days per season. I currently have the Axxis Metal masters both front and rear and except that there isn't enough bite from the rear, have been quite happy with them. Reasonable cold stopping and good fade resistance.

I'm looking to change my rear pads to get more rear brake bias. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116954 Since I also want to be able to use them on the street, I've narrowed it down to the Hawk HP Plus and the Porterfield R4-S. From comments on this site and the manufacturers descriptions, they appear to be rather similar in their performance and temp ranges. Since my primary goal here is to get more rear brake bias (which I will then adjust with the prop valve - currently all the way open), I'd like to choose the pad with the highest coefficient of friction. Unfortunately that information isn't on either manufacturer's web site. Does anyone know which one has a higher coefficient of friction? Are there any other pads I should be looking at? Edit: Could I get away with using the Hawk Black on the street if I only have them on the rears? Anyone tried this?

http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=ANH&MfrPartNumber=2378&PartType=38&PTSet=A As popnwood said, it's for a 68 el camino with 307. $2.39!

I've been watching this thread with a lot of interest as I'm getting ready to install the bracket soon myself. But I'm confused by the concern that the GM mount is going to be torn apart. The picture in my head is that the GM mount goes between the top of the nose of the diff and the R/T bracket. The stock diff mount is also installed to support the nose of the diff from beneath it. If this is correct, then the GM mount would only be under compression during acceleration, correct? How could this tear up the mount? What am I missing here? Signed, confused in Colorado

I read most of the MS docs last night, and I think I better understand how a wideband sensor might help. I see 2 main benefits: 1. under light throttle cruising conditions, you can more easily tune (using autotune) to an AFR other than 14.7. It appears this can be done with a NB as well, but not easily. 2. When tuning for power, the WB will report the actual AFR, not just if it is lean or rich. Given the extra adjustability of FI (vs. Carbs), I can see this being very helpful. Given I will have to replace my 1 wire NB anyway (it's mounted too far away from the engine to stay warm at idle), I think I'm going to spend the extra and go with the WB. I suspect I'll get the $150 back in reduced tuning time and maybe better fuel economy when cruising. At least, that's how I'm going to rationalize it So having said all that, what do you all think of the Innovative unit below: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-digital-wideband-controller-with-sensor-p-41.html At $200 it appears to be the least expensive WB I've found. Does it "bolt right up" to the MS I v3.0 ? The manual suggests it does, but I'd feel better confirming it here first. Also, where did you mount the controller? Firewall? Or in the cabin?

If I did go with a WB sensor, would the value be in tuning at WOT when the MS is open loop? Just want to be sure I understand how FI works. Also, what about the impedance of the Turbo injectors? Low or high? Thanks.

I understand why a wideband O2 sensor makes sense for a turbo motor, but for N/A, is there any benefit, besides ease of trouble shooting? I mean, if the objective is to run at stoich, then a narrow band should be sufficient, right? I guess I could see it helpful when running WOT and the MS is running open loop if the datalogs would show the actual A/F values. I'm getting ready to buy my MS hardware and already have a narrowband sensor installed that I used for tuning my carbs. I would rather not spend the extra $$$ (about 200) if it doesn't buy me something significant. Thoughts? PS. Are the stock Nissan TURBO injectors considered low or high impedance?

Look what just landed in my inbox: http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=93840 http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=32915

GrommitZ, I'm actually beginning to rethink my original decision not to change camber. I'm thinking that maybe this kit from MSA would make sense. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC08 Does anyone know how easy it is to change camber on this? Do you have to pull the strut assembly out to adjust, or can it be done on the car? The MSA site is silent about this. With regard to your question about where the apex was on that turn, the concensus from the group was about 140 degrees around (my very poor estimate from my memory). The point is that it was very late. The turn probably has a radius of at least 100 feet. No matter where you apex, the turn is so long that you have to be on the throttle at least part way for much of the turn. The powerbrute seems to lock up without a lot of throttle, which in this case works to my disadvantage. Here is the track map at PMI. I've been talking about turn 1. http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5201258 And my LSD is definitely broken in

I have one from an 80 280zx (don't know if it was from California) and it DOES have the EGR. I'm going to use anyway with a block off plate across the EGR port. Interesting that the California one does not have EGR - I would have expected the reverse.

I tried adjusting my braking points and line, but the understeer was still an issue. For example, at the end of the straight there is a sweeper that is more than 180 degrees around. The entrance is gradual and I was coming into it around 65 mph. It's like a big carousel, and the push was tough coming out. In fact I found that I was roughly equal to the stock 350zs on the track that day in acceleration, braking, but through the carousel, I just watched them pull away. Too much push

Ryan, yes I do have Illuminas. I checked last night and it turns out I had them set on 1 (softest) Front and 2 Rear. I had thought it was 3 on the rears but I was mistaken. I did turn it up to 4 in the rear which makes the ride much 'jigglier" (if that's a word), but there's no place on public roads where I can see how it affects understeer in 3rd gear sweepers

Wheelman, Without the bump spacers, going around a bumpy corner had the steering wheel moving all around in my hands as the tires went up and down. It seems like the force I needed to exert on the wheel to keep it turned would change over the bumps causing me to over/under correct and hence I couldn't keep the wheel in one position. Adding the bump spacers made it better, but didn't eliminate it. It is my understanding that the spacers are really only there to get the steering geometry back to (or pretty close to) stock with regard to bump steer. I doubt it changes the roll center very much. As for the drop, I was so excited to get started installing the springs that I forgot to measure my ride height before. I would guess it only dropped me about 1" in front, less in the rear - definitely not 2". But I don't know if the springs I took off were stock. I think the original owner had put a Mulholland package on many years ago.