Zmanco

Ok, we both posted at the same time. The nipples look to be at the top now. If the rear resevoir went dry while you were swapping the calipers, then you might try bleading both front and rear fittings on the M/C.

Blueovalz makes a good point: http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12316463315.jpg In this picture you can see that the nipple is not at the top. You're not going to get the air out that way. Sorry Ryan, I feel your pain...

If you put them on the wrong side the nipple won't be at the top to collect the air and bleeding is going to be really difficult FWIW, I used 240SX calipers and the ebrake bracket is very close to the antiroll bar but it does clear without hitting.

I can only tell you about my experience on my last rebuild where I had the crank ground 1 size under to clean it up. The replacement bearings fit fine EXCEPT for the center thrust washer which was just a little too thick in the fore/aft direction. I had to carefully sand it down until it was in spec. It wasn't hard to do, and so far the engine is in great shape, but I was a bit nervous that if I didn't do it correctly (for example, keep the surfaces flat and parallel) that the problem would show up after the engine was assembled and in the car and I'd be tearing everything apart again.

Ryan, if the calipers were dry before you put them in, you might remove the 2 mounting bolts and kind of move/shake the caliper around. Do this with the brake lines attached. You're trying to dislodge any air that's trapped inside the body of the caliper. There was a thread here last year about a guy who experienced what you are, and that was how he finally fixed it. The theory was that there was air trapped inside the caliper where the brake fluid hadn't fully "wetted" (if that's a word) the interior of the caliper. When I put mine on, I did this from the start and never had any issues with bleeding. I'm not saying my one data point proves it, just suggesting it's a quick and easy thing to do before you tear into replacing things.

I'll chime in: at the last track day with the 350z club, my 240 was dead even on the straights, slightly better in braking (mine don't fade anymore), and slightly worse on high speed sweepers (too much push) compared to the stock 350zs. Given I have around 10k in my car with a midlly built L28 (with my 2 hands in my garage), AND mine is not depreciating, I was having a great time. A little negative camber via camber bushings in the front and I'm hoping to solve the push issue too. Once I finish the FI conversion, my focus will be all on fine tuning the handling further, and improving my driving skills. Pretty fun to see the 34 year old car running with the modern stuff BIG GRIN! And in fairness to the 350Z guys, they're happy to see the old skool join in as well.

John, from the pictures it looks like you're using braided fuel line. For my application that's a bit more than I need, hence I was trying to go with hard lines. Do you think there's any problem with using brake line? I figure the brakes generate much more pressure than the FI fuel pump, and I can't imagine there being any problems with gasoline and the metal in the brake lines. But wondering if I have overlooked anything?

As I get ready for my FI conversion, I'm considering putting in a hard fuel line return on my 73 but am finding that there is nothing available at my local autoshops. The closest is to use some 5/16" brake lines in 60" lengths and join them with unions, and then cobble together some fittings to end with a 5/16" nipple. But this seems a bit more kludgey than I'd like for fuel. I started out thinking I was going to use the vent line on the drivers side for my return, but it means pulling a long length of rubber hose (I'm using the stock fuel rail) to get to it. For a foot or two I don't mind running rubber hose, but for more than that I'd rather run hard line. How have others done this?

Success! Just finished putting the Hawk HP Plus pads in the rear. I'm still running the Metal Master Axxis in front. I've bedded them in and now there is enough rear brake with the prop valve all the way open to lock the rears before the fronts. I just need to adjust to get the fronts to lock first. Thanks everyone for all the inputs! I'm looking forwards to the next track day where I hope to have a little shorter braking distance

.180" lash pads. Keep in mind mine is a reground cam (.480 lift) so it's not likely to need the same as yours.

Ryan, I'll just add a little about the wipe pattern. When I upgraded to my reground cam (which has about the same specs as yours), I spent a fair amount of time on this site making sure I had the right lash pads. It really paid off as my valves are nearly silent. In fact, since I adjusted them hot, I haven't needed to adjust them again (I did check once to be sure that they weren't getting tighter). That includes 2 full track days at PMI with frequent pulls to 7k and several thousand miles of spirited driving on the street. My point is take your time getting this part done right - it will "pay you back" with reliability and peace and quiet later. On the snow front, we've got over a foot since this morning. I thought we were done with snow!

Sorry if this has been asked already, but I'm unable to find it searching... I'm going to be building my MS1 v3 board soon and want to figure the best way to control the cooling fan. I only intend to control fuel on my N/A, not worried about spark. I do expect that I will want to use it to control idle eventually, but haven't yet decided how I will do that (PWM vs. stepper, etc). But that means I'd rather not use the FIdle to control the fan. From what I can of MSnS, it can control 4 outputs. However, I'm unable to find them anywhere on the V3 schematics. I'm trying to find out what drives them and if it can sink enough current to drive my fan relay directly. If not, I'll add the transistor on the protoboard section. The main thing is I'd like to do all the circuit assy before I install in the car. Suggestions?

What are the pros and cons of using dropping resistors with low impedance injectors vs. going with the PWM method? I'm going to have to make a decision shortly for which path I take with my MS1 v3.0 and stock turbo injectors for my N/A L28. Is the main benefit that it's easier to tune the MS when using the dropping resistors? PS. JRD, hope this isn't too much of a thread hijack - seems relevant to your question.

My email to him bounced back - his account is inactive. Checked the websites of the local car parts stores (Napa, Checker, Autozone) as well as Courtesy Nissan and none show pintle caps for a 280zx. Am I making this too hard - is there any easier way to go about this?

http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=14497&cat=500 Just bought these on ebay. Should I be concerned with the cracked plastic around the tips? Also, can I just cut the old hose off and press new hose onto the barbs? I've noticed that clamps aren't used on the injectors - perhaps so they don't crack?

At the risk of stating the obvious, you either have a very heavy foot, or are very rich, or both. I see 10 mpg on the track, but can get as much as 21 on the highway with a very light foot with 40 mm DCOEs. What do your plugs look like? How about carbon buildup on the back of the car near the exhaust? Those can be telltale signs of running too rich. Would be better to get access to a wideband O2 sensor. Given the rate at which you are spending $$$ on gas, might be a good investment to visit a dyno that knows how to tune your carbs. I'll guess you'll get the tuning money back in a very short time.

I have the Pallnet plexiglass spacer. The TB is 60 mm and the spacer is just a little larger.

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I've been enlarging the opening of the intake manifold. I'm noticing that there is no way to enlarge the intake opening to match the TB as I'll run out of material. Here's a picture - if you look inside you can see how much smaller the manifold's intake is compared to the TB. It's a little deceptive due to the distortion from the lense - I was only a few inches away. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=14470&cat=500&ppuser=16153 Is this normal? I'm guessing it is, but would rather check before I install it.

I had a similar issue with the guy who rebuilt my 5 speed. In my case the syncros were gone for 2nd and 3rd gear. After the rebuild they were still poor. It also popped out of gear in reverse. He claimed he had put new syncros in. In any event, while he fixed the reverse issue he must have done something else because the syncros are better now. I still have to granny shift on the 2-3 upshift if I take it to redline though. There's another guy who specializes in rebuilding Datsun Roadster transmissions far north of me. The next time I change the clutch and have the tranny out I'm going to take it to him and see what he can do. But first you need to confirm that the clutch is properly disengaging. Are you sure you don't still have air in the lines? What about putting it into 1st gear when the engine is idling and the car is stopped? Does it take more effort than it used to? If so, then the focus should remain on the clutch. If it's the same as before, then I'd focus on the tranny. I suspect you'll probably have to pull it again. I feel your pain

A few more questions: 1. I've been thinking about this some more, and have decided I am "ok" with slotting the strut top mounting holes. But from what I can see, it looks like there isn't much room to move the strut before it will hit the inside. For those of you who have done this, how much negative camber were you able to gain from this? 2. Jon, I follow your concern with the MSA Street Camber Kit and causing premature failure of the strut. You mentioned the camber bushings instead: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC07A I had dismissed them because it looked like there wasn't going to be much additional camber gained, but perhaps I was mistaken. Again, have any of you done this mod, and how much camber did you gain? 3. Lastly, how does the extra camber affect driving on the street? I had a 325 a few years ago to which I added Dinan's stage III package (springs, struts, bars, front and rear camber plates). IIRC I had about 1.5 degrees negative camber up front with 245 tires. When driving on ANY road with ANY amount of ruts, the car would hunt all over the place. It was not uncommon for it to jump 1 foot to either side without even moving the steering wheel. Needless to say, not fun! But I know that the BMW and Z geometries are not the same, so wonder if I need to be concerned about this with about 1 degree camber and "only" 225 rubber?

Last year I found a set of ITM cast pistons WITH Moly top rings for about $250. Bought them through BAP-GEON. If they don't have a store near you (likely), try the one in Colorado Springs, CO. IIRC, they were available in .010, .020, and .030 over.

COmputoman, my mistake, I was thinking you were looking for info on an S30. This is the only thread I found that references S130 and Toyota: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111474&highlight=s130+toyota