Zmanco

Stock headlights pull around 4-5 amps each (~10 total) which is switched by the combo switch. If you do the relay conversion, the only current carried by the combo is the coil current for the relay which is usually around 200 mA (0.2A). That makes a big difference. You could rig up a temporary switch to control the lights via a relay until you have time to do it right. The combo switches come up on ebay regularly. If your existing switch isn't too worn out, but rather the contacts are just dirty, you can take it apart and clean them. I did that on my 73 and at least made the switch reliably turn the lights on and off. But cleaning won't help much if the contacts are too worn, or the plastics are too worn to keep the contacts aligned.

Just bought mine from diyautotune.com and everything went perfectly. I've read others discuss their conversations with the owner and have only heard good things. Pricing for the kits was virtually the same for everyone, I didn't check for finished units.

The power consumed (and hence light emitted) by the bulbs is proportional to the square of the voltage at the bulb. What that means for those who hated math in school is that if you increase the voltage across the bulb from say 11 volts to 14 volts, the power consumed (and hence light emitted) is increased by 62%. This is HUGE. Even if you ignore the benefits of taking the load off the switch and increasing its reliability, the increase in the light you can see on the road is worth it all by itself. Do the relays - you won't regret it.

Justin, I'm watching your progress with special interest. I'm just in the middle of converting from triple webers to megasquirt using a stock FI manifold. It pains me to put the stock manifold on as I can see how much smaller the runners are than what I'm taking off. I'm really hoping I'm not going to loose too much top end. I keep seeing plenty of others with similar NA setups to mine getting good power (~175 rwhp) using the stock manifold, so hoping I'll see the same. But deep down inside, I have a feeling I'll be looking for a better intake by next summer. Perhaps you'll have a solution for me?

I had the same interference issue using 240sx calipers. I chose to cut the brackets off and mount them in the arch area just aft of the strut. I looped the brake hard line around and it naturally landed up there. The SS brake line fit nicely as well. Sorry, don't have any pictures right now, but if you experiment a little, I'm sure you'll figure out a location that fits. As for your other questions about the optimum street setup, I can't answer your question - I went with 240sx calipers. In my case, it's easy to replace parts: rotors from 84 NA 300zx, pads from 93 240sx - both of which have a good selection of performance versions available. I imagine you'll be able to make a similar list depending on which calipers/rotors you choose. Side note: I think it's important to do a check of what types of pads are available before choosing any new calipers. For example, the non-vented toyota 4x4 do offer several "heavy duty" type pads, but no real performance (aka "track") materials. One nice thing about the later toyota vented rotors is that you can use a pad from a 92 NA 300zx (you just have to cut off a tab). As the 300zx is a more performance-oriented vehicle, there are better choices for pads, such as HAWK HP+, which aren't available for truck. I haven't checked, but imagine that might be the same for 200sx vs. 240sx. Lastly, yes, the e-brake is very close to the sway bar, but as they are both attached to the strut, they move together and don't touch - just barely.

Just to add a little more to what BRAAP suggested, Alt-PrtScn (pressing the alt key and then print-screen key) will copy just the active application's window instead of the whole screen. If that's all you want to share, then there's no need to edit any further.

I've used the speedbleeders for a while now. Makes bleeding by yourself easier. But unless you are bleeding quite often (such as before track days), you'll be fine with the stock valves. Given you have everything apart right now, probably not a bad idea to put them in. It will never be easier (or cleaner).

I have the toyota 4x4 w/84 300zx vented rotors up front and 240sx calipers w/300zx solid rotors in the rear. Even with the prop valve opened all the way there is still too much front brake. While it's safer that way, I suspect that I'm leaving some braking performance on the table. If I was to do it again, I'd go with the S12+8 calipers which have a slightly smaller 2nd piston to give a little less front brake bias, and then tune it out with the prop valve. I believe this caliper weights a little less as well.

Look at the plug that is about 4-5" to the right of your red mark. That's where the PCV is installed on my manifold. Can't tell from this picture, but the hole may already be the correct size. Mine was.

Also, as the injectors are low impedance, any recommendations for a starting point for the PWM settings for TURBO injectors? Z-ya suggests the following for the stock N/A injectors from post #9 in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121361

I've gone through the stickies, but just about everything is for turbo apps. I'm going with the following: (hope to finish with the install this weekend and fire it up!) MS1 v3.0 MSnS - Fuel only L28 w/flat top pistons stage III equiv cam headers + exhaust MSD 6AL w/280ZX dizzy Stock '80 intake manifold Stock turbo injectors 60 mm TB Anyone have a map they think is close for me? I live at ~6500 feet, but don't think that should matter. Also, FWIW, I'm going with the 2nd MAP sensor for real-time barometric correction. Also, modded the board for the electric fan control, and will be using a PWM idle valve from an early SAAB. I'm worried I've got too many non-standard things going on simultaneously. I may deactivate the idle valve if I have problems bringing things up from scratch.

Thanks everyone. It turns out my stock shaft looks like it can be extended enough, although it will leave a bit of an angle for the rod that connects to the accelerator. I'm going to be installing in a few days and will know then.

To John's point, see if you can take one for a test drive. Specifically, find a place where you can get and stay on the gas around a long turn, such as a freeway on/off ramp. Then play around with flooring/lifting the gas in 2nd gear. Keep one hand on the steering wheel and the other on the shifter. Let us know what you experience You won't believe how much changing the throttle will affect a) the force on the steering wheel, the direction of the car, and c) the position of the shifter. Other than that, Saabs are great cars the rest of the time. I too almost bought one until I took it out for an agressive test drive. Bought a 3 series BMW instead - not as much raw acceleration, but so much more stable with handling at the limit.

I've used him for a bunch of DCOE parts, and his service was excellent BUT.... The fuel inlet valve in his kit is too small (forget the actual size, but it's smaller than the stock size for a DCOE40). Took me quite a long time to figure out why I has going lean at WOT at high revs.

cygnusx1, I'm following right behind you. Tomorrow I pick up a roll of steel fuel line and then I'll have collected all the parts I need to convert my 73 from carbs to FI via MS. I've already built up the intake manifold and the relay board. This weekend I need to build up the MS board, and then begin doing the fuel routing swap. I'm also going to use a bosch PWM air valve to let MS control the idle. Not sure if I'll hook that up right away, or maybe add once I've got the engine running. But it's all mounted and ready to go. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/P1040603_Medium_.JPG It's turning out to be a bigger project than I orignially expected due to all the little fittings, hoses, etc that I've had to source. Please keep posting any pictures and your experiences. I'm glad to learn from your experience and put it immediately to good use

I have an 82 5 speed and 4.11 and it's like having a close ratio box. But I'd only suggest the 4.11 if a) your engine makes useful power past 6k, and you like to shift a lot. If not, then I think a 3.9 might be better.

FWIW, last summer I bought a set of the Illuminas + Tokico springs from JDMwerks. Turned out one of the rear struts failed almost immediately and he was quite reasonable in sending a replacement out before I returned the bad one. I did have to call him and pester him to get it done as he doesn't appear to pay too much attention to email, but he did the important things promptly and without any hassle. BTW, I paid about $525 for the complete set delivered. I don't see those deals anymore so wonder if Tokico raised their prices?

http://www.wescoperformance.com FWIW, I used these guys for 3 point retractable seat belts in my '73 and have been really happy with them. If you're interested I can look up which ones I have.

I agree with Jon, I think there were 2 symptoms from 2 different root causes. Ryan, a simple test is to press on the brake pedal as hard as you can for 5-10 seconds. If the pedal goes down even the slightest bit, then you've got a problem with the M/C or a leak somewhere. I do this after bleeding to make sure I haven't left any of the nipples loose.

I think I have the same diff as you (R180 from Nissan pickup). After I installed the diffy and changed the side seals, I thought the leaks would all be done. Turns out the vent up top was loose (I could spin it around with no effort). Since I changed that it has been bone dry on the outside. Of course, it would have been a lot easier to replace when I had the diff out on the bench It sounds like one by one you're replacing the sources of your leaks. After that it should be good to go for a long time.

I finished assembling the intake manifold yesterday for my FI conversion. Recap: I'm using the intake manifold from a 80 280zx on my 73. I noticed that the throttle shaft that goes from the firewall to the intake manifold from the stock SU intake is about 2" too short. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/P1040602_Large_.JPG A few questions: 1. Is the 280ZX shaft the same, only 2" longer? 2. If the answer to #1 is no, any suggestions? 3. If the answer to #1 is yes, anyone have a throttle shaft they don't need? Thanks,

Thanks Eric, that's where I bought my helmet.

Yes, it looks like the nipples are on top now. Try bleeding the M/C if you've still got a soft pedal.