Careless

gaht damn, this is such a mess. damnit fentin_fury, i should have bought your rb26 head! :'(

Hi doods, I have a Wolf V500 unit here, and I got a plug in adapter box. I'm curious to know what parts I need from the RB26 to get the whole thing running properly. My shipper sent me pics of everything that he took apart today and I was wondering what are the more important/expensive parts from an RB26 wiring harness and equpment that is needed to get the thing running? I know it would be a lot less parts on a standalone than on a factory unit, but the pics are so small I can't make anything out =(

Nigel, 13 inch tall, 5 inch wide, looks a bout the same size as the one in the write-up when you compare the cap size. He makes mention of 10" being the drum size, so if you factor in between 2 or 3 inches for the cap, and the 1/2 inch thicker bottom side, this is what you're looking for. Available at home depot, although it's not on their website, and you can no longer buy it online from any retailer. Therefore, it has been discontinued and replaced with an electronically controlled valve unit. http://www.geappliances.com/smartwater/model_fs.htm?GXWH04F strotter sorry for my quote of your post, I must not have been reading. the point about it failing in a crash is important and I overlooked it when quoting you. apologies!

You may be able to get away with the same setup using a larger receiver dryer from a truck, and it would be aluminum and would cool the fuel as well. you could cut off one end, and pipe thread it, perhaps? If you can find an aluminum pipe cap, then you can also run the electrical stakes right into the housing as he did, and also tap the fittings too. hmmmmmmmm... i like the in-tank surge pump unit too. makes more sense.

uhhhh.... really?

are the rear main seals and throw-out bearing cups available from napa? I am about to put my tranmission back on when I get my flywheel/clutch that should be here on thursday, but Nissan is soooooo far from me

hey.... PIP down over there! I'm trying to read your SAW post! *disappears back into a cave with EDIS*

HHHHHHHHHHHHHHAHAHAHAHAHAHA that has to be one of, if not THE funniest posts I've seen on the internet in a VERY VERY long time. LOL hahahahahaahahahah. those are awesome.

hmmmm. Amsoil sounds great, but really... I mean... what's a REALLY RELIABLE source to tell whether or not Amsoil is paying people a lot of money to just push their product? I would run Amsoil just the same as I run Royal Purple, but is there a reason to switch? It's all a mystery at this point.

Bishop, you're going to need a touch more than 1.0 bar for 500. I'd say closer to 1.2ish. And I dont think I need more than even 400 hp in my Z. =)

ahahahahah. there there *pets your head*

cartoon?! lol what? thanks for the info on the diffs. it doesn't say if it's a CLSD though, on the nismo page. But Tomei's products are top notch. If I were to go with something it would be the TechTraxx for sheezy.

also, be straight with your dad. tell him he's being like willie in that when you say "no" he goes and steals parts anyways with the "im not doing anything wrong face". I mean, he could at least ask.

lol, ass. he's making good progress, go josh go!

'atta girl little... Phillis?

Well what happens is they put the block into a controlled temperature room, and over a couple of days to a weeks time they slowly lower the temperature to sub-zero levels to settle he block at extremely low temperatures. It allows the metal to contract and really squeeze the molecules together. I've heard people get great results with it, and wouldn't build an engine without doing it. And I've heard people saying it's not really worth doing because money could be spent elsewhere and assembly is what counts. but in this case, it could be part of "assembly" practices, because in doing this treatment, you'd have to recheck all your clearances, and it's really something you might want to do before going with the machining of an engine block. the vq35 makes 300+ hp at a much lower RPM, and is a streetable motor in all senses of the term. a 300hp N/A VG, or RB as I am building will be a little "on edge". But It sure as hell would be fun, and a torquey little thing!

So.... that would work with the Open Diff that someone left on my car, you says?! I knew about their existance, but I was told it was better to get a CLSD case if anything. HMMMMMMMM. which company?!

Royal Purple 10w40 over hurrrr. After changing the oil from what the PO had to Royal Purple, i DID notice my car ran a bit smoother, so the damage has probably been done by whatever cheap ass oil he put in there previously. but it seems to pull a little harder. then again, I don't drive much so maybe it was my Imagination. MT90 going in the transmission. Possibly MaxGear for the diffy.

for 1800 + 1000 in repair parts (what i paid for my z31), you'd be pretty hard pressed to find another nissan for 3000 bux that is as quick as a turbo z31. I'd rather buy a z31 turbo (and have) over someones' 10 year old turbo civic science project for 8000 bux. There are 89 CRX's here going for like 3000 and they are garbage. I'll take my demolition_derby material, thank you very much

I dunno how you have it set up, but there are a couple of things you really need. 1) Air Dryer 2) Pressure Pot (with sand INSIDE It) 3) Air line to pressurize pot 4) gun to release pressurized air/sand. The pressure pot ones work VERY well if you have a dry air system. Syphon ones get clogged a lot easier too.

Pathfinder 300zx z31 87-89 turbo 300zx z32 for starters

I was going to post diagrams of the parts numbers yesterday, but it was 2:30AM, and there were literally like 4 pages with all these weird twirly lines and banjo bolts, and it would turn into a parts number mess from which I would rather not hand out parts numbers for because in the event that they're wrong, i'd feel like an ass. LOL. hydraulic stores, like CanadianZ said (we have a place here called NITRO), can make it for you.

haha. good point! i've been overlooking a lot of things lately. silly me without a reference point to start and end with, it'd be tough for Wolf to tell how fast the engine is spinning and on what phase of the cycle it will be firing on. oh dear.

for a sprung hub, clutchnet has some pretty strong discs. The rivets are quite thick and the plate steel holding them in isn't a flimsy clamp, it's more of a 4 piece housing. can't wait to see what the carbon kevlar disc is like. and can you please tell me what the interchanges are I may have enough money at the end of the week to grab a CLSD too and put that into the car. Really all I need right now to get this car the way i want to.

woops, nevermind what i posted. anyway. have you considered these, bishop? http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0008&product=FMFK055