Careless

and lucky for you, the size of the larger ones are the same as the VG30E and ET blocks, as well as CA20 and CA16 from the M10 chassis (stanza) and s12 chassis (200sx) cars... http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product1520.html

you can find brass and stainless plugs from a variety of car parts suppliers, you just have to know the size.

This man is crazy i tell you... CRAZY! :'( EDIT: and sorta makes me feel inadequate cause I don't have access to these machines, even though I was pretty good at CAD.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY-CLUTCH-FIDANZA-FLYWHEEL-90-96-NISSAN-300ZX-TURBO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33730QQihZ005QQitemZ150202183492 looking at this i realize its a 248mm clutch so it should be the same as the 87 turbo 250mm ring gear. but what do I use?

Thank you greatly. I just removed the second dust boot and saw the circlips before coming in and reading this. I remember reading that releasing the wrong one will release the check ball into the case. So I came in here to check and you came to save the day Now all i need to do is loosen the engine mounts and jack the engine up slightly and yell at the transmission until it gets sad and slides off. Hopefully it's that easy.

I don't understand. how can I get the shifter OFF if there are two large deeply nested screws holding the two front ears of the shift plate down? How can I access this compress ring if I don't have a way of getting the shifter off.

should I attempt to weld a nut to the top of the two screws that are deep in there and try and wrench them off?

VK56 in the next project, rob?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WELDON-RACING-16000A-FUEL-PUMP-CAN-SUPPORT-UP-TO-4800HP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ133197QQihZ019QQitemZ290189196065 this is the best pump that would suit your needs. we can plump lines to your car and have you pay for gas while we drive a long side.... i mean... Z meets are supposed to be cool right?

stony was refering to another thread where the dipstick knock-outs on the pan rail are on some blocks, and not on others. similar to what he's seen on these RB engines. he's not saying it's the dipstick hole itself, silly!

if you guys are so scared of running vista and megatune, why not run the programs in compatibility mode? there's a tab where you can change this if you right click your shortcut and go to properties. this will ensure it's running with an emulation layer or some sort that will run XP / NT 5/ 2000 specific commands and have them understood and relayed back in most cases without a problem. it will run a touch slower but I don't see what the big issue is.

are you sure it uploaded ? was the board checked at the com-port controlling circuit? there's a way of testing the chips on the board in their troubleshooting guide. it's easy if you have a good multimeter.

how do you use the B12 Chemtool? I generally like to drain oil warm, so it flows out of the pan a lot smoother

looks like its says 230, 260, and 575. hmmmm

I can't get my shifter off. took the console out, removed 4 bolts... I see two bolts at the front that are wide and require a screwdriver to remove. How the hell am I supposed to get to those with enough force? Is there something else I'm missing. It's the last thing I need to remove before dropping my transmission off the car. Can anyone help? I have the haynes and FSM and it says "remove shifter" on the FSM and the haynes is only displaying FS5R90A T5 and FS5W17C, and the crap auto. I would hate for this to be the thing that stops me from driving my car again... ever WTF

RB30 has it too, with a pressure sensor attached on mine.

hey everyone. im taking my transmission off in about an hour (starting to, anyway). I have to know what kind of clutches fit on the VG30ET. I have an 87 turbo, so it has the larger FS5R30A. I was told/read that I can use any clutch kit from an SR20, or KA, or any other FS5W17C transmission as long as I use the flywheel and pressure plate from the same kit. Would I have to move or modify the starter mounting or get a different starter? Ive been told by someone I don't trust very much that it's just the disc surface that's difference and the pressure plate housing.... Racinjitter was over one day and mentioned it too but I cant remeber what his words were, so Allz i got is this person I'm not too fond of as a backup source of info (cause I would trust Racinjitter if I remembered what he said!) I am looking at this deal here for an SR20 clutch disk with flywheel clutch pack: http://cgi.ebay.ca/EXEDY-CLUTCH-KIT-15-LB-RACING-FLYWHEEL-SILVIA-SR20DET_W0QQitemZ150259335441QQihZ005QQcategoryZ33730QQcmdZViewItem I'm wondering if it's possible to use. It's not quite the 30lbs of the stocker, or the 11 lbs of the lightweight versions of the 300zx flywheel, like this one: http://cgi.ebay.ca/F1-STAGE-2-CLUTCH-FLYWHEEL-90-96-300ZX-TWIN-TURBO_W0QQitemZ150260972409QQihZ005QQcategoryZ33730QQcmdZViewItem or should i go with an exedy/daikin http://cgi.ebay.ca/EXEDY-CLUTCH-PROLITE-RACING-FLYWHEEL-90-96-300ZX-TURBO_W0QQitemZ160252637995QQihZ006QQcategoryZ33730QQcmdZViewItem I Know the last two are for VG30DETT's but I cant find a clutch/flywheel combo for the 250mm packs, so I'll settle for a 240/241mm unit if they will work. Right now the SR20 one looks good cause it's a tad cheaper, and won't be super flimsy depending on the flywheel construction cause of the added 4 pounds of steel. I need to purchase this by end of day today or tomorrow morning, so any help is appreciated. I've already called some people but I'll be in the garage... FANKS GUYS!

not about to get into a pissing match, but with a huge car like a hummer, it's hard to tell what's making the difference. the roads could have been hot and stick on one day and causing a lot of rolling resistance, and dry and cool on another day, causing less resistance. that tornado thing did little to nothing. but.... if u wanna spend ur money on useless stuff like that... go right ahead.

I'm not even going to get into what happened with me and my engine yesterday, but i think you guys got it lucky, and i'm about to shoot something. And worst thing is... his business partner is on my side. I hate dirty childish businessman. next one that tries ♥♥♥♥ on me is going to get a rude awakening. I could have bought a lot better similar units for he money I had put down and was not refunded because he had spent my money already buying cars and parts for himself. Oh well... next person who does this won't be so lucky to have thwarted me.

yeah just don't put it in the oil like the dumbass on the miata forums. it goes in the rad with fresh coolant. it most likely will not stop leaks on the oil side of things. dont mix anything with oil.

i bet this would work. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RPC-250-4153&N=700+400615+115&autoview=sku essentially, any circuit that you see is driven by 2 or 4 magnets that sweep across an equal number of other magnets in a small circuit as twainhart mentioned. they in turn, send pulses of a constant voltage , almost like a PWM signal, to the sensor. I'm not sure if this is what you guys are looking for though =/

really? hmmmm.. i notice when i turn my lights on in my 87z31t it drops rpm's by about 100 :-/

well said.

you are seriously mislead. how then, do you explain that this tornado device, which is just a splitter, can reduce blow-by, reduce emissions, and all the other stuff it claims. why WOULDN'T someone make something that doesn't work on every car, only to make money on all the people starving for gas mileage increase? I mean... no one wants to capitalize on people's misfortunes and necessities nowadays... that's unheard of.

starting to wonder myself :-/