Careless

H-12? sick!

My father and I only recently started to get along, and only now is he seeing that all the funky stuff I talk about or I'm interested in is stuff that I can see becoming a life-long passion or side-career. He thought I was gonna bring home a pile of junk when I said "87 300zx Turbo" because it was an 87, like his rusty 87 jetta... it was a 300zx, which is synonymous with our old neighbor's expensive z32, so 1700 bucks SURELY cannot mean good things, and because it was a Turbo, and Turbo also means expensive to him. But when I brought it home, he was the one to drive it into the garage, and he took it around the block. I think he fell in love... so it's something that I'm sure he'd be open to. Just gotta justify doing it. Only way is break the current engine

I will be using the RB30 mounts, but I'm going to be cutting them and welding them to 1/4 inch plate with mounting holes and a thin sheet of rubber that I will epoxy to them. I want the rubber to remove any chatter, but it will be thin so that it will be somewhat more rigid than standard ones. The RB30 mounts are pretty damn beefy from the looks of em

Yep, I read that on his site. which is why I made my comment about how it has little to do with the radiator position, and actually makes it tighter, as I'm sure he used an offset mounting plate to make the shifter peek out of the hole in the standard up right position. soooo I don't think his install would be any much more complicated in the front of the car than many, unless his intercooler is different. I could see his being hard to adjust from the side, as well as fentin_fury's, because they run twinnies!

Who's to say the factory ECU doesn't pose these problems at power and rotating speed levels at which the AEM (and other EMS systems) perform. It's not just AEM. That's been proven on a number of GTR and Skyline boards.

As 240Z2NV stated, there are tons of info threads on this regarding it. I think you should give that fan a look cause it's pretty cheap and readily available. It would still get yanked and poked at a velocity high enough that it could burst because of the pressure on the inside acting against the pressure on the outside. Imagine a driveshaft waggling around at 7000rpm. Do you think the line would be safe in close quarters with that thing? especially if you have a driveshaft loop, you might end up keeping the driveshaft within the same quarters so that it hits the fuel line hundreds of times before you slow down. I guess since if your driveshaft undoes itself, you won't be driving, so severing the gas line is only doing you a favor cause you may end up draining it to do more work in that area anyway. oh, and if a grenade went off under there, I don't think you'd have a gas line or a fuel tank at all. you live in some bad parts 'a town, man!

i was actually looking for pictures of your car to post here. LOL

i know. only 1100hp. here I was, thinking it would be an astronomical number, like 1101hp. woah is me. can't wait to see this thing

Ron, either you learned how to touch up photos to near perfect status since the last time we exchanged email (what... a week ago?!), or that car is absolutely SPOTLESS. where'd u have to stand for the first shot, anyway? u have a mono pod with a double-wrist mount?

THIS THREAD NEEDS A WORK WARNING. TOO MUCH THROTTLE PLATE PR0N!

I think this will be what happens to my Z31 if the motor pops. My father has been working, teaching, living, breathing, and rebuilding A/C and D/C Starter motors for about 40 years now. Surely this is something he would definately want to help me on, as he loved the car when he found out I paid 1700 for it! Where would one acquire such a motor anyways? I'm sure my dad knows, but just for FAQ sake.

so in order to shift, you just ease up on the throttle and slip the gear in while the motor is idling?

he said he would be switching to another battery later. for now this is how it's gonna be. figure with the saved money from gas after all is said and done, it will actually pay for itself, even before the battery swap. (oh dear, we're talking about higher horsepower battery swaps now. NOOOOOOOO)

The man is only human! plus, i'm not entirely convinced that altering the pitch of the motor from left to right has any influence on where the rad or intercooler would go. can someone verify this?

yeah I meant ALSA. i'll change that now. glad you caught that, shows how much I glance over the newsletter they send me every 2 weeks. LOL. Raff

just went in the garage. definitely 200zr pan. difference between 200zr pan and RB30 pan that is readily noticeable is the bump in the "flat" portion, as well as the RB30 pan has a X king of marking that adds rigidity to the flat portion. Not sure if the RB25 is the same, but I think it is.

'bout $125, peaks upto 40amps in the high setting. low setting pulls a heck of a lot of air anyway.

Radiator Fan Assemblies Item / Number / Description DORMAN PART NUMBER 620-101 1995-90 Taurus, Sable, Continental Detailed Applications Year / Make / Model / Engine / Application / Note 1995 MERCURY SABLE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1995 FORD TAURUS: SE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1995 FORD TAURUS: LX V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1995 FORD TAURUS: GL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1994 MERCURY SABLE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1994 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: SIGNATURE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1994 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: EXECUTIVE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1994 FORD TAURUS: LX V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1994 FORD TAURUS: GL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1993 MERCURY SABLE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1993 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: SIGNATURE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1993 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: EXECUTIVE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1993 FORD TAURUS: LX V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1993 FORD TAURUS: GL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1992 MERCURY SABLE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1992 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: SIGNATURE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1992 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: EXECUTIVE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1992 FORD TAURUS: LX V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1992 FORD TAURUS: L V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1992 FORD TAURUS: GL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1991 MERCURY SABLE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1991 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: SIGNATURE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1991 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: EXECUTIVE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1991 FORD TAURUS: LX V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1991 FORD TAURUS: L V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1991 FORD TAURUS: GL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1990 MERCURY SABLE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1990 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1990 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL: SIGNATURE V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1990 FORD TAURUS: LX V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade 1990 FORD TAURUS: GL V6 - 3.8L (232 CID): GAS: FI: N: 4 Incl. Shroud, Motor & Blade END OF LIST

it's hard to get them curved. that would need to be custom you're better off mounting one up against the rear glass that is less curved.

i vote for ALSA corp. they have an amazing line. im sure they can get any look you want.

Im going to bet Marc took a lot more time than he did money to get those mounted on the inside. consider it a feasable option, whether you're getoffmyinternet or mr.rolston =)

it's been covered before, specifically here on HZ. It is an issue with the CAS, and not with the AEM unit. most people i've talked to on SAU seem to think it's because the belt has a tendency to stretch enough for one of the 360 slotted holes to be recounted, making the 360 degree revolution out of sync with the falling/leading edge cylinder holes used on the inner portion of the CAS. This is completely understandable, as the 360 marks are so close together, the computer does something erratic with the timing if it counts anywhere from say... 355 - 365 degree slots. All completely possible because belts will stretch under load. I'll bet the tiny CAS shaft that connects the slotted receiver to the cam has a bit of twist in it too, unless it's hardened steel or something. Either way, it has to do with the slots being too close to be computed as accurately as Nissan intended for higher RPM session. I can see AEM probably cutting the timing slots to 90, 45 count, all the way around the perimiter of the disc. Underground was selling modified RB26 CAS wheels through AEM, as I remember. Ron Tyler came up with a solution to drill a small 1/8 inch hole about 1/8 after the 1st cylinder square hold in the cas disc. This gives the ECU a double-beat and signifies first cylinder TDC. Ron can explain it better than I, but it was covered already, so if anyone is interested, a search will tell the tale.

Internet was going slow this morning. I actually pressed reply, turn my monitor off and left to work, but it didn't post! The fuel pump is external and it is bolted near the rear passenger wheel well. on the underside of where the interior tool boxes are (those 2 boxes behind the seats). take off the passenger rear wheel safely, and slip under there and undo the clamp. You might have a heck of a time removing the line from the tank to the pump and to the fuel line. Also, make sure your fuel tank is empty before you do that! (there's a drain bolt on the tank). Now to the somewhat more technical part. the stock 76 EFI pump flows roughly 40 gph or so with a 43 psi line pressure (correct me on this, anyone?). that's 150 +/- litres per hour. that will not provide the required fuel as mentioned by the synthtk. And a walbro 255 (LOOK FOR GENUINE ONES, THERE ARE FAKES!), will be right up your alley if u plan to keep the engine stock for a bit. You can always add a second one later anyway. If you have a 75, you may have a different pump cause it's a carb system in most cases... EITHER WAY, you need a higher capacity fuel pump.

HAHHAHAH that ♥♥♥♥ is super ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ ugly. leave it to the VW guys to do something utterly hideous and stupid because it's different.

I think you should use the FS5R30A Transmission rather than the FS5W17B or C. if it has to take near 400 torque from an electric motor, which is almost instantaneous compared to the stock L engine, you may see exploding tranny bits soon.