Careless

so you're going to do the measurements and take it to the machinist and tell him what to get on his readings? I'm wondering if that's what I should do too, but tools and the hand differ. where does one get a nice set of inside mics? lookin good, man!

Man, you should consider yourself very luck to have that car and be this far along with the project. take a look a projects like stony's and scottyM1z's and getoffmyinternet. trials and tribulations a plenty... but they've still managed to make the best of it and take it easy and do the best they can at the time in which they work on their cars. If you're seeing it as "work" then you're not enjoying it as a hobby. I've been stressing over my car for the passed year and a half, trying to get engine blocks, an engine head for my engine to move forward, and now I've got into a dispute with the seller. THESE things throw me off from working on the car. You though, should have no reason to put yourself down for what you're doing. Your project looks to be coming along as any other project would with someone who doesn't do this day in and day out or doesn't let anyone else do it for them. My car is a piece of ♥♥♥♥ (really), but one day I will get into working on it a lot. I have tons of client work that I hate doing because I can actually see my garage from my room window, and it makes me sick knowing that I should be an active individual and go out there and finish my work bench to start working on my car. And that's what I've been doing. I'm putting a sink on the workbench this week and then I'm going to start working on the car. Perhaps pulling the engine. But there's a lot more work than that. Atleast you got a head start with a clean body. Try spending less and working more. GET A FRIEND TO HELP. you wouldnt believe how many friends offered to help me with my car because it's something they've never seen before. Make the best of it. Make it a piece you can share with someone (while not on the ownership). Make it something your friends will know you're proud of, and have their support. I work on my friend's cars more than my own because I like making them feel good about getting something done. It's about time I do the same for myself, so this summer... things will get done. And I'm going to work hard at my day job to make that happen, so that money is not what stops me from working on it.

you'd need some sort of high heat polycarbonate. almost like the ones that people use to make those clear wheels if you've seen them. They're able to withstand brake heat.

cool bit of vintage kit for the collector, but it wouldn't be that hard to make anyway.

why hasn't someone banned this user yet? ... he just pissed all over the board with the worst word I've seen in a while.

anyway, i tried reading this thread and what it boils down to is that: 1) most, if not all of the mods on the board are members first, and officers second. 2) a ban is a citizens arrest

are there meetings i can go to? classes i can take?

Any updates on the weight? Trying to get this going still.

well if there's better, then why not go for better? Lighter weight? stronger at the same time? I'm sure they exist.

tell me what number and what part it is and i'll give u the right one.

11140-75T00 is what you should be after. don't append numbers like 9308 to the end of the numbers given, it will show up as "missing numbers".

yeah thats basically what i was getting at. its good that my typing got across, sometimes i read it and it doesn't make much sense. LOL

The reason why some of the parts numbers don't follow this format is due to the fact that the part could have been the same across all heads (42L00, or 58S00). That's my guess. so they go into the "general" pot. In that case, I use the Nissan FAST System to tell me everything, which I've posted pics of. R32's are not sold by Nissan here, unless dealership owners or sales managers choose to. Therefore, none of the dealerships should be carrying the JP (a1, a2) discs for Nissan FAST. That's why my favoured dealership's Assistant Parts manager calls me when he needs a part number from a Skyline. They won't give you the number because they cant. But they can order anything if u supply the number and whatnot.

have you tried heating until it's red and then going to sleep? hit it the next day. it usually works for me.

add chrysler to that duo now...

those fücking filters are the shît. …so, you were saying?

ahhhh come one. it's not his fault if that's what the dude told him. that's why he asked.

Even though you're a mod I'm gonna tell you to SEARCH! cause I specifically made a thread JUST ABOUT what you asked about 4 months ago. I'm pretty sure I explained how it works. sheeeeeesh, the hypocrisy in this place. <3333

i'll look into how to block it on an RB, but what should i be looking for?

Those customers are easy pickins'. even if you don't want to do that sorta stuff... if they ask for it...

i agree with you on the fact that you hold your own opinion and so do i, and that they may differ (we do agree on this right?...), then i'm pretty sure you'll agree with me that the taste for design is subjective, and some people will like one, or hate one, or be in between. Some would call that car a masterpiece. And that's why they sold other cars that were "ugly". no?

if u can cut a 3 inch pipe down the middle, weld on some 2 inch or so wide plates at the edges on both sides, you can then extend it to about 5 inches in diameter. then you can Y-weld a collector of two 3 inch pipes with a smooth transition (cause the strip you welded in the middle of the two 3 inch halves can be tapered to allow a widening or narrowing of the "short plenum" as i'll call it.) you can even put a divider in there so that it doesn't balonn and so it keeps velocity up for the times when it's revving low. That's what I would do since i have a welder i could practice on. and im sure you could do it. whats the worst that could happen, if u got some extra pipe layin around. it'll be a chore, and some people are fed up and just want it on the road. LOL, so its a draw on the decision for me if it were my choice.

you'd be resizing or honing the final size into the big end of the rod anyway, so I can't see that being an issue. distortion would be to the .001 +/- i bet. I'm sure a competent machine shop can take care of that. It's probably not going to make much of a difference seeing as the bearing should never touch the journal after starting, or at all if you have a good priming system. the only thing i can see being an issue is the rocking of the connecting rod, if any. But I think it's just a machinist trying to tell you that more work is involved, and he either does not want to go through the process or wants to save you money. In the end, you'd be better off with a machinist who checked that distortion in the first place, regardless of whether the rod is eagle or not. Lets face it, there are so many companies saying they make "the best, strongest, lightest" rod on the market for XXYYZZ Nissan engine. And then there's a machinist that just wipes em with some emery paper and slaps em in with bolts that are completely different than the ones the clearances were read and tested with. The ARP2000's on my spool rods are bolt in from the cap side. So this would mean you're talking about L19's right?

Actually that was part of a video, and I was hoping somebody would catch onto it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ccgXjA2BLEY

maybe in H-Town you guys don't associate sound with the law. I don't like when my cars be goin like WHOO WHOOOO. But then again I should be up in the mawnin' cookin breakfast or sump'n by then. Then you got the flows. That ain't trippen without the flowmasters. It's just for decoration anyway, baybay. dats it dats all. they do it for decoration. *drives off passed a stop sign in an MK3 supra*