Careless

TONKS GUYS! didn't go this week but will soon. hopefully they gots sump'n for me.

and with roughly 7000 hp (ala bud king) making a 6 second debut and demise, it's probably a science project with crank pin offsets.

And my dad makes some damn good whine, damnit!... and cheese! I'm italian, remember.

howz about I drop a rusty datsun chassis with no wheels infront of your driveway the night before, instead. my gift to you! hehehehe

oh suuuuuuuuuuuure. keep the z31/vg guys out of it

Hi, my motor is in pieces on the floor. LOL. What are some details about your motor? I see you only have 8 posts. Perhaps you should start a thread about your build and put more info down so people can see what you're upto, if you like. =)

I have both the front and rear subframes from an S14. As well as the steering column and linkage/shaft. They're both JDM/ The S14 rear subframe has an electronic HICAS system that can be removed and replaced with an threaded end eliminator bar that allows adjustable toe in and out angle. Apparently replacing the hub assembly with aluminum Z32 hubs is a good move, because the stock cast iron ones are a tad weighty. As for the front, yes it's mounted on the rear side of the cross member. That's something to keep in mind when doing a swap to another car or another car with a different engine. Not sure if it's better than the S13 though. I know it would be different mounting an RB engine in there with an S30 chassis and S14 front subframe. Something I plan to do anyway. I think what makes the S14 a superior design for the S30 chassis anyway is the fact that the rear uses taller shocks. For an S30 the s13 might work on the 240/early 260. For the late 260/280, I think you need the taller s14 rear shocks/coilovers. I would take pics of the stuff (got a phone with a relatively good camera on it now!), but I just moved all the stuff into the corners of the garage to do my Z31 clutch repair =(

Hi Guys, I'm going to the JY tomorrow. If I find a CLSD R200, what's the best way to remove it, and what tools does a bum like myself need? Sockets? Sizes? Johnson-bar? Ratches? Cro-bars? Thanksssssszszzszsz!

or you can weld a cross bar to go lower than the oil pan, just infront.

does the etoile wheel come in 5x114.3? Man, those are beautiful wheels Wish I hadda pair 'a those. Looks like Gotti wheels... also a brand I would love.

good gawd! Neethling is gunna run away and hide when u show up to tune this thing

a sheet of metal won't do a thing for you. you need to make a small gussetted box to surround the pan. a sheet of metal will just move into the oil pan and push it in together. you have to box in the pan with some plate, not sheet. It's much more economical and practical to figure out a way to raise the engine if you ask me. the 16's will add an inch to your height anyway, and just run a thicker tire.

YESSSSSSSSSSSS. swayte man! you guys are gonna have so much fun soon. LOL just in time for summer. Brantford ain't that far and i got a "friend" out there, so when my z's back on the road I'll let you know, maybe we can get together when I'm in the area and kick tires (on my car of course) for some time. good stuff guys!

More like 220 untouched and 280cfm with some work from what I've read on various sites. Not sure at what lift, but...

My PDF printer is acting up and my fonts aren't japanese and won't show japanese characters. Problems arise when trying to read the specs on the bearings too. The last number changes from a 0 to a 6, but they all say "STD" (no condom jokes please ) and it does not display any information about the size increase or decrease (no viagra jokes please ). I'm gonna go change the plugs, o2 sensor, and clean the engine on my z31 since the sun is out. I'll hit'cha back when I come in to do some more work on my computer.

both.... the cam is phased out during manufacturing in relation to how much the cam and crank twist during testing.

and if it ain't full with at least 255 billion Zimbabwe dollars, when I get it back, I'mma comin'a getcha!

The 200 or so hp in my dd z31 feels just fine. 500? sheeeeeesh.

Vin Diesel is your cousin? coooooool man.

Me too, and to bring something into consideration: cheftrd, you mentioned in one post in another thread that the bump-sticks on top fuel dragsters have their timing phased out of sync with the other lobes on the same cam because of the torsional forces applied at WOT off the line, causing the cam to twist violently in a instant. I think this is the same thing that's happening to the crank right when the clutch grabs hold... cranks, having offset crank pins, would make it hard for torsional forces to travel down the entirety of the crank and flatten out along the axis which it spins. Since the 6/rear pin area is closest to the clutch and has no where to transfer the load from the immediate grabbing of the disc... twisty = snappy. That sounds like a believable reason to me.

GIMMIE BACK MY TOTE! :mrgreen:

I didn't see that you had asked. I'll get on it when I get home. I know that the RB30 bearings are the same as the VG30 Bearings, but the journal size is 2 or 3 mm larger than the RB26, I fink. Sooooooo I just thought i'd mention it because I'm driving my Z31 now :mrgreen:. But yah, I'll get on that tonight, and I'll export a PDF with all the bearing sizes for each year/engine/crank and I'll compile it into one doc and host it here in a thread.

what problem are u having with MS1

yep. notice the 25 inake.