Careless

sorta disheartened that you didn't personally get to drive it to its full potential, but I think I speak for everyone when I say a job expertly done, and I'm anxious to see the next project. hats off

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/powerfc-faq/inj_top-en.htm lucky my friend nick sent this to me yesterday night. LOL number 3 on the list.

i believe 43 ft lbs on these.

well then there you go =) if you can get the engine for under 1200, and find an RB20 transmission, I would go that route to have a running car. The transmission is smaller and lighter, and could help with lugging the car around with 250 or so hp.

hey cal, I've used MDF for all my speaker boxes, or even the rims that I use to mold fibreglass around. it works, but for a center console, I was opening this page and envisioning just an extension of the factory unit... I didn't imagine a speaker set to fit in there. LOL well concealed =) "I swear officer, the speaker was pounding on my calf, and i hit the gas sporadically"

lol at first i was like "WOOD? MDF? is this guy for serrrrrrrrrious?" then it turned out to be something i would rock in my car. great stuff, must sound reasonably well too.!

Then again, if you have an RB25DE, and just want to make an intake and exhaust system to get it running to have fun in... well that ain't so bad either. It would probably make somewhere around 210 to 215 hp with a cam, header, and some port matching... not bad compared to some L's. That I would live with. and that seems like what you want to do. So, I'm all for it. Who knows, you may like it enough to slowly start another better engine on the side. That's cool too!

there's a fellow on the r31skyline club forums that took an RB25DE, cammed it, put a "z0rst" (exhaust), put the head on an RB30 block, compression somewhere around 9.5 or 10, had a crappy tune on a 25DET computer (or DE, cant recall), and made close to 200 rwkw (270hp) using stock EFI with SAFC to trim the maps to get it running ok. That's without ITB's, with improper fueling, somewhat low compression, and a head that does not flow as much or as well as the RB26. I think 240 rwkw is possible, but I don't think you will get 200 rwkw with an RB25 head on anything that is carbed, much less an RB25DE block itself if you don't do some VERY fine work on the head, like enlarging the intake valves by 1 mm, getting a set of ugly cams, with some triple mikuni's, and pretty scribbling your john hancock all over the ports to get them to read right. That's the reason why this seems so complicated and simple, yet unworthy of a trial/error. You won't make more power than factory unless you're ready to invest some time and money, and for whatever the case may be, I wouldn't start with an RB25 for that reason. Go out in one direction completely, or go home. N/A relies on the head to allow enough air to enter the cyls with little loss in order to create a vacuum. Would you like to start with an inferior head? That's why I'm going RB26/30, it's the largest of the 4 and has the most potential to create more power (displacement + better flowing head). Got a spare RB25 lying around that's missing parts? Try it. Gonna buy an RB25 to do it? meh... if it's what you want, try it! But I would look for an RB25 or 26 head and plonk it onto a 30 block if anything. forget what carb you're gonna use or what you have. Forget what you need once you get the engine. Figure out whether or not you see this as an investment to make you smile, or something to beat on for a couple of years. Cause in the end, you may just want to go to the biggest/most potential possible, and considering the difference between the two starting points , and the small differences in options, it's easy to justify spending an extra grand or two to get the better of the two in order to cut out the chance of mechanical limitations in the future. DO you wanna budget money for an RB25 head only to find the springs suck, and they can use some GTR love? The hydraulic lifters offer valve-train parasitic loss as one of it's key features, and the valves and port design needs to be reworked to match the GTR head and the cams are a little harder to come by, or not as wide-ranging? KNOWING that, I would try and find a GTR head (600 - 1000), RB30 block (800 - 1200), and then just have it honed and re-ringed with RB25DE pistons. You should have a 11.5:1 or so compression, and you can just squeeze a thicker gasket in there to get it down to 10.5:1. You will make 180rwkw with those carbs, perhaps. Is that what you're looking to make? I am budgeting 12 - 15k for my engine alone. If I make 365 hp out of it. I will be more than pleased. That includes machining, balancing, squaring everything up, and personal assembly and parts contracting that I've almost completed. Now I have to stick with it But I've never changed the plan, so it's ok. I think it's a cool idea, but I'm curious to know where you see the engine being in your line up of cars, not how much power it will make... How long do you expect it to last, or how well do you want it to run? Choose wisely. It costs money!!!!

that looks like it will last for decades to come! not a bad price at all to retain the stock luggage area with the same fuel system + improvements. well spent.

Hi guys, my friend Nick who just got an e-manage for his KA-T sent me this data page that has some good information on certain injectors from nissan, toyota, mitsu, and some aftermarkets as well. check it out, it might be a little help. http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/powerfc-faq/inj_top-en.htm

the fuel pump in the 76 has a small screen filter at the inlet. here is what i did to fix my non-starting problem. I took apart the pump, tried to take the screen out by using a short but wide screw, and threaded it into the plastic that held the mesh, so I could pull it out using a pair of pliers. It didnt come out, and I'm not sure if it should, so I left it and cleaned the inside of the pump with 400 - 600 grit sandpaper, polishing all the surfaces of each one of the dowels and the gear inside as well. Then I bought two o-rings that were the same size as the teardrop ones that were in the pump, and squeezed them to fit. (this was the problem with the pump in the first place, it wouldnt turn because one of the o-rings somehow slid out of its groove and lodged into the gear and stopped it from running. So after I fixed that, I bought new plugs. and it seemed to start right up. Try putting back one of the old plugs into number 6 and see if it runs a bit better. But cleaning out the pumping mechanism in the pump itself might be a good idea, and it ain't that hard at all. including the sandblasting of the outside of the pump which I did afterwards once I covered the in/outlets... I'd say it was a total of 1.5 hours of work.

I bet 360 - 370 isn't too far into the future for you. you could probably hit your numbers at 19 or 20 psi, as well with some aggressive tuning. do you have a pic of the manifold scotty made for you? nice numbers, Evan!

details on the engine?

Ｓ１３０ ＲＢ３１ ＲＢ３１キャブ（SOLEX50トリプル）ＮＡチューン３６５馬力 気持ちいいです。 http://www.testarossa.jp/library/s130/index.htm

yeah the R31 house video they have of the RB20 headed carb'd RB30 didn't impress me at all. =/

I agree with your reasoning. But I don't think he was bashing you, he's just opinionated, as am I. The only difference is that you and I share the same opinion on what we think our personal projects should be like, and he does not. I guess it's a case of "been there, done that". Well, I've neither been there (NA high comp RB), nor have I done that (build a nice N/A engine on my own). So here's to you, me, and nzeder, and FJ for contributing his thoughts. Now... if someone can find what other mods that Rocky Auto or that jap s130 had... that'd be sweet. Hold on, I'll post some pics soon =)

custom cams are not the only choice for an RB26 head. you can mix and match other RB26 cams to get the desired effects of overlap and proper duration/lift. lol. relax man, small oversight. I think that you think too highly of the RB26, and I'm sorry my E offended you to some extent. LOL. lets agree to disagree, and I'm sorry your Z24 didn't perform quite as well as you would have liked it to. I'm sure 350+ hp in a 2700 lbs car will be enough to make me happy. If it were not for the fun factor in extracting power from an engine, and calculating small details that are imperative before assembly, I would have taken the 5 or 6 grand I've got in parts, and bought an LS1. I COULD put a turbo on my RB30, and fix the small issues after it's running and before I boost it hard enough, but then it's the computer thinking, and not the builder (me). We can't win 'em all. I just pick my battles appropriately, and I'm not trying to compete against anyone with my car, I just want to suck in birds from telephone lines as I bounce off the limiter at 7500+ rpm on the quiet streets.

There's a 400 hp EFI RB30DE in NZ, and there's a 365hp Carb'd RB31DE, so I don't see what's so hard. And 400hp is more than enough to pounce on a lot of things currently on the road. maybe "skaterkid" skates for millions of dollars =) who are we to say. I'm not a millionaire, but I'm 3/8's of the way through the engine process.

It would make sense on my car too. 4 Valves, 3 Litres, 2 cams

or turn the vehicle into a self propelled asphalt drill bit. I saw a thread about that mustang somewhere, looks gangst0r!

As much as I respect your opinion, there are a couple of things that I would like to point out. Some racing classes that certain people are competing in can only allow certain sized engines, and turbo chargers are considered added displacement. If I were to go N/A (and I am), I would use a standalone EFI, (and I will). 4-5k complete... but just so you know, Nissan did develop some non-turbo RB26's from factory (while limited, they exist), AND you can get a bare engine (as I am) for about 2/5th's of the price of the turbo-equipped imported blocks. OR, you could buy the complete engine, and sell the misc stuff you don't need and make about 1000 - 1500 back in parts. so essentially, it can cost you anywhere from 2500-3500 for an RB26D. I'll also mention you also save 100 - 200 lbs in the engine bay, which would really help out with the weight issue of all the > 2.0 iron 6's that nissan makes. Couple that with some fibreglass or CF flares, hood, and and some lightweight wheels. Perhaps a bare interior, smaller fuel cell, and you have a mid 11, to low 12 second N/A car. For an N/A car, that's pretty damn good. Not everyone wants to be the fastest, and perhaps the reason for asking was based on the procurement of a cheap bare-bones RB26 (as I've done). I do agree with the turbos being superior, and I love the feel of the factory or lightly tuned Skyline GTR, but let me be the first to say that I completely respect the ability of some people to sacrifice power in the name of unconventional alternatives. My reason for an NA RB26/30 is because I want to keep the nostalgic essence of the NA form that this car came in (76), as well as the I6, with the additional advancement of today's modern day EFI tunin and OHC valve control whilst using a Nissan made powerplant. Is that insane?

It's on a dolly with wheels, so yes.

If you have a good lead on an RB26, you can use most of the stock EFI equipment. the Injectors should be good for whatever power you can make out of the engine in N/A form anyway. I'm just waiting on my RB26 that I've paid 70% for. It's coming with the long block, ITB's, short manifold, no exhaust manifold, no turbos, all sensors, all efi, ignition, and wiring, and no ecu + a set of HKS Cams and Cam gears ontop of the stock ones. I got that for 2100 CAD. considering an RB26 with everything included goes from anywhere between 3800 - 4600, transmission included, I think it's not a bad deal when you include the cams (1500 without them). There is a Solex 50mm triple carb'd RB31 in an S130 floating around in japan, NZeder sent me the link to it, but I can't access my hosted mail. It's a claimed 365hp, and apparently, "Feeling it is good, it is". Couple my build with everything listed in my sig, which Racinjitter can verify that I have most of what's listed there, with a bit more stuff, and some things not yet made (exhaust and intake), I'm setting my goals pretty reasonably high. If I don't reach them, changes are to be made =) but I've been feeling that building an N/A engine is as involved as a turbo engine, except you're doing things a bit backwards, which I'm known to do, so this is right up my alley. I SAY DO IT!

Can you tell me why carb'n an RB26 would be a bad idea?

can i bring a Z emblem and an RB30 block EDIT: Make that TWO Z emblems.... :'-(