Careless

Here are some pics of the Romac RB30 Steel Inner, Alloy Outer Balancer (#0330SA) Contact Paul at VPW.com.au if you wish to purchase the unit.

maybe your FPR is stuck closed? have you tried to free it or check it using an air compressor and some extra hose layin around? I just did this on an EGR vacuum valve over the weekend and solved the Toyota Previa's 2000rpm cutout problem, which was associated with the TPS as well, once EGR was repaired.

mmmm....hmmmm.. you... me... w0rds. I think cygnus brought up a good point. I think I would just leave it at a natural shot that had no post-processing. It does look pretty dramatic, like there's some ambient light in the background that could cause a scene to unfold as such. thanks for sharing And that bee shot looks awesome. It looks like he's nudging the flower with his face. LOL. horny bees.

also, going on this balancing thing... Some would say that balancing the entire assembly is ideal. Balancing the harmonic balancer and the rotating assembly as well as the clutch cover and whatnot. But the RB is internally balanced. This brings up the question of whether not it's a good thing to do when balancing. Should we balance with these things on the ends, or will it even out? Is it a precaution that we should take when rebuilding for extra help in defeating i6's inherent harmonics? =/

an oil catch can with a filtered vent or a line going to the VC after oil has been separated from the crankcase vent hose would be ideal. that way you can monitor (in some form) blow by and crank case pressure as well as oil loss. they're very easy to make. I hear the SRT neon guys use them to stay within warranty specifications.

hey... HEY. No talking about how you beat it in the corner. sheeeesh. lol j/k. so when is the startup taking place

"This is an auction for a KAAZ 2 way lsd to replace you stock vlsd diff" so no good?

Anything like that would work, as long as it's somewhat shatterproof. Don't worry about the scratching. Duct-tape the translucent film (2 layers should be ok) to the inside of the viewing screen. and if it doesn't have a light bulb inside, you can get an under-cabinet light for kitchens at the dollar store. Cover the edges of the light with duct-tape so sand doesn't get in there. Just make sure you have a vacuum to do the breathing for you. You will walk away from the cabinet without feeling tired or stuffed, even hours later.

interesting. it's good that you pointed it out. how much did it cost you?

most pcv valves are made of pvc though, no?

LOL. thanks for quoting me in your sig, g.o.m.i.!

Ron, Did you shoot that in RAW or flat-file JPEG? if jpeg, use photoshop's "Shadows and Highlights" filter under the "EDIT" menu to bring some of the shadows back into where the highlights blow out the contours of the leaves and sphere shapes on the main arch of the building. I think the sharpness and angle and composition! is just about perfect

it probably has to do with the fact that a lot of z's are so warped out of shape in the front, that putting brackets on the hoods from the manufacturer could render it useless to many ppl who would have to pay a lot for shipping to get it in their hands. LOL. just a guess?

lol i said that because your reason for doing what u want is a lot like my reason for my build. So i was wondering who you been talkin' to that's tellin you about me?!

N95 masks are like 5-10 bucks for 3-5 masks or so. The way to get the harbor-freight cabinets to be less-hazardous is this: 1) go to a garage sale or craigslist, and look for a work vacuum that u don't mind trashing. 2) fill the basin of the vacuum with water (a litre or two should do). Make sure the vacuum line going into the vacuum from the hand-wand plunges into the water. 3) make sure the water does not go as high as the motor/filter. 4) hook that up to your sandblaster, and test to make sure your motor does not ingest water. The water serves to trap the sand as it comes into the vacuum, and not throw it through the motor and back into the air, where it will be broken down into further smaller particles. WAIT! we're not done. 5) Disassemble your entire sandblasting box (....yep). Go get 7 or 8 packs of butyl rubber (or measure every bolted edge of the box, and find your total length), and put it back together with a good butyl rubber sealer. 6) At this point, you may want to replace any glass with a good stiff plexi that has a BIT of resilience to it. and on the inside of the box, put some translucent plastic sheets to protect the plexi-glass from getting sandblasted. 7) Test. If the box starts to expand a little bit due to build up of pressure in the box, you should be ok. (that's why we replaced the glass that you're staring through with plexi. its not as painful when it busts in your face, and it will most likely still be held in at the edges with the bolts, whereas glass will be held at the edges with surgical pliers when you're removing the shards from your eyes and cheeks). I hope everyone takes the time to do this. And sandblast outside (that doesn't mean in your garage) and make sure any pets or neighbors are aware of you doing this kind of stuff.

my romac balancer for my rb30 states that it is to be put into a heated oven for 2 minutes at 180 degrees, and then slid on carefully with the keyway inserted prior to fitting- turning or moving the crank while it's expanded due to heat may gall the snout while it's slowly contracting if you try to align the keyway and slide a key in AFTER mounting it. That will cause vibration even when fit rather snugly and driven. Getting it off is rather involved, as it would require even surface-heating for over 5 minutes with a powerful heat gun. Doing that with a fluidamper or an elastomer bonded balancer is critical, as an uneven heating can cause catastrophic failure. It's the same as anything, be friggen careful. LOL

not enuff Z'ers to fund the project.

ughhhhh. fix that antenna hole plug man. get it covered nice. I'm not even looking at those flares cause of that eye-sore. LOL makes your car's sexy butt and hips look like it's got a zit

go to ebay. look up user ukstar76 ask him for what it is you need. he will get it for you, and for the best price you will ever find.

My guess is that the 02 sensor is heated by the activation of the fuel pump relay. The wire going into the relay board is the actual voltage/resistance wire used for the reading. The one running to the fuel pump looks to be the heating wire. and the + Coil post is connected to the switched 12 for the the same reason. It loosk to be using the S5 from the relay board to trigger a fire, since you couldn't time the firing without running an additional 12volt line through the relay board if you were to have it hooked up to the + instead, and then have the coil grounded to chassis. This makes it easier by using the ground connection to trigger the closed circuit. That's what I THINK. don't quote me on that

Man that sensor just squeeks by that transmission mount. LOL @ Booyakashababuah? :lmao:

http://zparts.com/showcase/engines/pages/q45v8z-testfit.html this wasn't too hard to find, gents.

... hoo yoo been talkin 'choo

It's probable that the hard clunking is the differential mount. I'm not saying it's a definite issue, but I remember there being a thread or two about a clunking when shifting hard. From what I remember, it was the nose of the diff that would dip forward.

Hey, I see no problem in admitting when you don't know where to start with something. I think that's where most vague questions come from, lack of a starting point, or knowledge of where would be. That's why I think giving a detailed post about the situation and the "problem" are both imperative to getting the answers or the proper direction you are looking for. BTW, since I fully agree with bjhines....