Lewis Maudlin

Hey Alex, What is your new setup. I just went for the 240SX popular setup. GT2871R, Nismo 740's, Z32 MAF. i went for the small A/R .64 to get maximum response at the expense of top end power.

Well, it is running, I just made a poor choice going with the APEXi standalone. Now i am having issues with its memory. The guys at Apexi tell me that I can install a power relay and fix the problem. Also, I decided to go ahead and drop in my seats. Tomorrow i should be done, but I won't make it to the scales til next week and then the dyno the following week.

The interesting this is that I haven't been arguing. I merely asked whether John's comments were based on fact. I believe that this is a valid question. I am not arguing with the facts. If you take a look at my posts, I don't. Mike says, Am I the only one that thinks his statement looks opinionated. Mike, you can say that you don't like 4 cylinders. It's OK. I don't like Celene Dion. There, I've said it. But don't try to tell me that comments must be based on facts and that your comments are all factual and then tell me that I can't ask what the factual basis is for your comments. This entire deviation from the thread resulted from my inquiry to John asking whether his comment was based on fact. I was just curious as to whether it was factual or specualtion. GEEZ!

I ran 3 tanks of gas through it and averaged 25+ mpg each time. That included highway driving and pushing it as hard as it would go. I don't know what it worked out to, but I suspect that it was getting about 30 mpg highway and 10 mpg or less with my foot in it.

Wow, I am impressed that a guy would run his car at the track. I don't know if I owned that car if I would have the stones to drag race it. Do you think his auto-insurance covers speed contests? Would have been nice to have had one of the quicker S30's send him packing though.

Why would you go for the non-turbo? Can you find it cheaper? When I put in my mostly stock SR20DET, I was getting 25 mpg and it ran like a scalded dog. I was averaging mpg even putting my foot in it sometimes. I think it gets great gas mileage since my last built Z was a sbc and I only averaged 12 mpg. Alex (SR240Z) can help you with the SR20DET install. He has done more than anyone and can even do your install for you.

Isn't there a 250 lb difference between an early 260Z and a 240Z? Then another 275 from early 260Z to 280Z. It appears that the SR20DET did save weight over the 240. I realize that the 240 has more accoutrement, however the 260 should weigh 250 lbs more according to published specs. I would be happy with 275 lbs more than Amir. I don't have a rollbar, but I do have an interior, spare, etc. That would put me in the 2400 lb range. I would even settle for the 2600 lb range. Can't wait to get to the scales.

IT brought a pretty nice price too. $7212 for a bone stock Z.

I was searching and saw this super clean Z selling soon on ebay. An awfully nice start for anyone. It is only 6 hours from me, but I am not in the market at the moment. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4622564935

I am not that interested in weight savings. My car is a daily driver. There are a lot of things that can be done to save weight. I was just guessing what my car could weigh. I hope for 2600 lbs or less. I even said that the numbers were sheer hope. John may be right. It seems counter-intuitive to me, but it is possible. I was just wanting to know whether he based his comments on facts.

Yes, I know who John Coffey is. Yes, he built Amir's Z. I built Lewis's SR20DET Z. I wasn't trying to pick a fight. Yes, I do have a chip on my shoulder because some of the other guys made wild statements in a thread I started. Later, John C closed the thread because people wouldn't "stick to facts" (his words). I was just wanting to know the factual basis for his statement. If that is unreasonable, then I am guilty.

2875 lbs is what all the websites say. I don't know if they really weigh that much. I think you are wrong about weight savings of the SR engine. I think the SR will weigh at least 100 lbs less than the L28. These V-8 and V-6 guys are always saying that it doesn't weigh less. They claim that a complete SR weighs 490 lbs complete, then they add the intercooler and piping. They say a complete L28 weighs 523 lbs. What they forget is that an SR20DET has an intercooler and piping if it is complete. I don't know why people believe that a smaller, aluminum block engine weighs only 6% less than a 50% larger iron block??? Do the turbo, intercooler and piping add as much weight as 2 cylinders and the iron block??? I don't propose to know the answer, but I have owned and drive all three and can tell you that the SR20DET feels much more than 100 lbs lighter that the L28.

OK, how about a revised estimate of 2600 lbs. I can always hope for 2400 lbs. The stock 280Z weighs in at a swinesque 2875. The following are guesses -75 lbs Removed the front and rear bumpers but added air dams -100 lbs Removed L28e and put in SR20DET +-0 Replaced exhaust with 3" mandrel bent and Megan1 muffler -100 lbs Sheer hope???

Don't forget, I have an aluminum block 4 cylinder as opposed to an iron block 6 or 8.

Like I said, my car is a hog. It is a 1978. It should be a little on the heavy side with the R200. I also have the Toyota 4 piston brakes. Someday, I need to trim some fat. I even have the full size FOLDING spare tire. I thought the tire had rotted the first time I saw a folding spare.

OK, I have my car back up and running. SR20DET, GT2871R, 740's, Z32MAF, APEXi power fc, ported polished intake, FMIC, tubular header and downpipe, 3" mandrel bent exhaust. Now I need to weigh and dyno tune. I will let you know what I find out. I expect 350 whp and 2400 lbs. The weight may be higher because my car is a hog. I have front and rear air dams, leather seats, air conditioning hasn't been removed. Unfortunately, I am not done in time for SEZ. I hope that someone with an SR20DET represents at SEZ. I do plan on making Z day however.

http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=5857&cat=618

I still have the stock R200 open dif. I would switch but I haven't found a cost effective option. If anyone has any good cost effective solutions for a daily driver, please let me know.

Did that list help you SR guys?

Putting the SR20 in the Z is easier than installing an sbc. I have done both.

BTW that list is to help you guys as a realistic estimate. Don't tell my wife.

Originally, I spent $2400 for motor and tranny shipped S13 low mileage $200 new ecu $100 another starter $100 water pump $150 oil pump $50 belts $24.99 motor mounts $300 engine cradle Vildini $50 shorten driveshaft $300 FMIC and downpipe and exhaust manifold $100 air cleaner and intake and FMIC piping $100 Taurus fan $200 Aluminum and plastic radiator $150 intake manifold ported and polished $350 ACT HDSS clutch $200 3" mandrel bent exhaust $100 Walbro 255 fuel pump Plus labor The new ecu was a quirk since mine was not working. The new starter was necessary since most have defunct starters. You should replace the oil and water pumps. The FMIC is necessary and the downpipe and exhaust manifold are necessary. The Intake manifold, taurus fan and radiator are not entirely necessary. You also need incidentals like fluids and spark plugs. After I got all this done I have also added: $150 Z32 MAF $489 Nismo 740cc injectors $1100 GT2871R turbo $1000 APEXi Power FC standalone So how much do you want to spend???

I reread your post. Apparently, I am missing the back-up power as opposed to the power back-up. Do you know which pin goes to the back-up power?

All the engine wires you mentioned are on the SR20DET harness which you will use. The engine you have should have a harness that goes from the stock ecu to these engine components. These are the parts you will use. The dash wires are not used. The speedometer can be hooked into the transmission and used. None of the instruments from the 260 are capable of receiving a signal from the SR20DET ecu. So there is a power back up available for the Power FC??? Do you have a part number?