Lewis Maudlin

The engine cradle is not a solid mount. The cradle sits on the lip at the bottom of the engine bay. The engine then attached by way of the bracket on the motor to the rubber mount to the cradle. I cannot remember if it was the SR20DET rubber mount or the L28 rubber mount. If you search on this site, there are some good pictures of the Vildini mount. Also, there is no L28 to SR20DET harness. You simply remove the old computer. You install the SR20DET computer and harness. You will need to splice power and grounds into the harness. If you hook up power correctly to the SR20DET ecu, you should be up and running. Right now, I am wrestling with this issue. I mistakenly hooked up switched power to my ECU. That is fine with the stock or programmed ECU. However, I switched to an APEXi Power FC. Every time I turn my car off, I lose my program and have to reprogram the car to get it to run with the Z32 MAF.

Just joking. But really, you can use your original driveshaft. You will need to take it to any competent machine shop and have it shortened since you will mount the SR20DET much farther back than the L24. Vildini sells an engine cradle. It works well. The wiring info can be found on any SR20DET website and with links on this site. Search and you will find all the wiring info you need.

Your wheels look great although somewhat familiar. I went with 215/60/15's though. The 225's would not fit behind my front air dam. I had to trim the inside lip of the air dam to fit the 215's. This is why I say yours look familiar. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=5854

If the fan was set up without a thermostat, it would come on when he turn the key to the run position and would not wait for the key to be turned to start. That was the way I had mine set up. Now, I have a Taurus fan set up with relays.

Have you thought about the SR20DET? A few guys will knock it b/c it is a 4 cylinder, but it is easy to get it b/w 350 and 400 whp. Great for a daily driver. Where else can you get 30mpg and 350whp? You will also end up with a mid engine Z that is about 100-150 lbs lighter than most Z cars.

Carry in Chicago??? Isn't the penalty for that something ridiculous like 20 years in prison??? Illinois has some of the strictest anti-gun laws. I hope you have a permit. Is it really worth the risk? Don't get me wrong, I carry, I just know that Illinois has some harsh laws. BTW, what good would a gun do you if someone pulled a shotgun??? I think the proper response to the man with the shotgun is, "Yes, sir"

Hey, all I'm saying is that you got into a forum that you knew nothing about and made statements based on opinion rather than fact. I just thought I would repay the favor and tell you what I thought in your thread. I do think it is a shame that a Z died at your hands and that you did not insure it properly to rebuild it. I am sorry for our loss.

So do you know how much your car weighs and what kind of hp it is putting out? 11 seconds on street tires is a great goal for me.

Often times you can go with him to the bank to pick up the title. If it is a national branch, sometimes, there is a local branch. They will send the title if it is being paid off. I wouldn't trust anyone with money if I had qualms about it.

Judging by your love of V-8's and hatred of 4 cylinders from the Nissan 4 cylinder thread, I suggest that you get a 1979 Mustang GT. You should be able to find one in your price range. Then after it breaks, you could go spend another $500 and get another and another and another.

I don't think Amir ever said what his quarter was. As to which engine would be better, it depends on your goals. What are you looking for? Cheap? Track car? Gas mileage? Reliability? Availability of parts? Drag racing? If you don't answer those questions, all you get around here anymore is a bunch of conjecture. It seems the answers are like Ford beats Chevy...or vice versa. If you can answer those questions, however, you can get a less subjective answer to your question.

You need to define a little rust. It is a relative term. I paid $2000 for a rust free driver that needed lots of tlc.

You could get a boost/vacuum gauge and see how much boost you generate with 10 of these hooked in series. http://www.electricsupercharger.com/

I hope not too. My 360+rwhp setup will be running later this week. I hope my stock block is enough.

Can't you get Agreed Value insurance from Hagerty that isn't stated value but an agreed value???

My Z is a 1978. My lights don't flash. What are my options?

Got this from freshalloy. "Well i have some new tricks up my sleeve!! I am currently in the middle of helping in the development of Nissdata. simply put it is programamble engine management for Nissans that works just like Hondata. With the system installed the car made 409 Hp / 332 Tq as compared to my previous bests wiht the exact same setup 382 Hp / 305 Tq. This is was doen aat 21.3 psi on 93 octane pump gas on a bone stock block and head, including stock headgasket. Fuel curves are very smooth. You will be hearing more about the system in the coming few weeks....but for now here are the results. My cars specs are as follows: Red Top SR, GT3040 Turbo (52 trim comp. / 84 Trim Exh.), JGS Turbo Log manifold, Greddy Intake manifold, Tomei 555cc Injectors, Z32 mafs, Tial 40 mm wastegate, custom downpipe, Blitz LM series IC kit." Here is the link: http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB9&Number=340118&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

I have a voice activated JVC Chameleon with MP3 jack. I also have a custom speaker box with an Earthquake amp. It probably weighs 50lbs total between the head unit, wires, amp and speaker box.

My Garrett GT2871R and 740cc injectors are going into my car this week. Woohoo! Now I just need a dyno and a scale.

I have clear corner markers and put LED's in my corners. However, my turn signal does not work. The light works fine, just not the signal. They look really good. They make load equalizers. I could get those at $5.00 each. Does anyone know whether there is an electronic flasher that will work instead?