Lewis Maudlin

full boost is 14 psi which is the minimum boost setting on the GT2871R. Dyno time won't help. I called the only shop in Indiana that knew what an SR20DET was and they said that they can't tune the Power FC and referred me to somewhere in Maryland.

I got my 740's, APEXi power FC, datalogit, GT2871R and Z32 maf all going in my SR20DET. I have idle and have found a map that I think leans the car out enough to drive. Incidentally, I had to changed my plugs because the Power FC base map was so rich that they were completely fouled. Here is my problem, the GT2871R is not hitting full boost until 7000 rpms. I can't figure it out. Of course, when I do hit full boost, my computer stops ignition because of the rev limiter and promptly flood my car. Anyone know?

OK, probably a question for Alex. I got my 740's, APEXi power FC, datalogit, GT2871R and Z32 maf all going. I have idle and have found a map that I think leans the car out enough to drive. Incidentally, I had to changed my plugs because the Power FC base map was so rich that they were completely fouled. Here is my problem, the GT2871R is not hitting full boost until 7000 rpms. I can't figure it out. Of course, when I do hit full boost, my computer stops ignition because of the rev limiter and promptly flood my car. Anyone know?

My understanding is that the SR20DET can handle 350whp on stock guts. However, some guys have blown head gaskets. Your budget looks realistic. It sounds like you have enough money to complete your car. Good luck with the build.

I am still not done tuning, but I expect 25 mpg on my daily commute. However, I am sure that if I put my foot in it, I will lose mileage. If you get the GT2871R, remember that it is going to cost between $2,000 and $3,000 for the required upgrades. You will have to have: GT2871R $1075 Fuel Injectors $ 489 * Upgrade ECU $600 to $1500 * Z32 MAF $150 The $489 is what I paid for Nismo 740's. You can go cheaper if you want The ECU upgrade is $550 plus shipping for a flash from Enthalpy or more for a standalone. I have $1100 in my APEXi Power FC with commander and datalogit. All of these upgrades are required if you switch to a GT2871R.

It was some video game nerd. I think officially a video game entrepreneur was the description. Police arrested him. I guess it is a little different that NEED FOR SPEED. Or maybe he was doing research on NEED FOR SPEED #22.

That's kinda what I was thinking. If he wants to stay down to 250whp, he could just turn up the boost, get the appropriate exhaust and get a fmic. He can probably get close without making the major mods that the GT2871R is going to require.

I am no expert, but I do have a running car that I have been driving and I have done a lot of research. Why are you getting a GT2871R if you aren't going over 250 whp? Is that even possible? Are you planning on running 6 psi? My GT2871R is internally wastegated at 14 psi. If you run a GT2871R, you are going to have to get 550 cc injectors. I would recommend 740's because the GT2871R flows enough air that the 550's will be running at 100% duty cycle. You will also have to have a bigger AFM and a reflash of your computer. I think these are minimums if you go to the GT2871R. I think you are going to have over 300 whp whether you want to or not, unless you just run it out of tune. That is also going to create an issue with that tranny that you are using. All of my research, suggests that the six speed has reliability issues at higher hp. It seems that the 6 speed tranny is the 5 speed tranny with thinner gears to fit an extra one. I think most of the drift guys switch from 6 speed to 5 speeds to keep from breaking the thinner gears. As for gas, I run 93 octane pump gas. I have had 0 knock at the stock setup. I still have 0 knock with the GT2871R setup but I am running way rich and need to retune. I anticipate being able to lean the tune and still run 93 octane with my FMIC at 14-17 psi.

OK, here is the free advice that usually costs $125/hour. If you start a computer repair business, do it on the side. You are young. It is OK for you to work 60 hours a week if you are getting paid enough. Unless you want to put all of your eggs in one basket, just start a business on the side. You can still advertise the business and do it professionally. If you are professional and capable, your initial clients will refer more business your way. Education is the KEY. I think everyone on this site will agree that education is the key. Get an education. That could mean going into the military and learning skills that you don't have. That could mean going to work for a welding company for 2 years at $7/hour an learning everything you can. That could mean going back to school and getting an education either as an ASE certified mechanic or a doctor. Any way you cut it, in order to make $$$ you have to have skills that are marketable. As for the military, there are a lot of opportunities. If you get the opportunity to fly in one of the branches of service, you can often parlay that into a commercial aviation career. Many people work as civilian employees here near Crane Naval base. A lot of them have military backgrounds. If you do decide to go into the military, remember to shop the best signing bonus you can find for the branch that you would like to join. Some are $15,000 or more just as a bonus.

LOL, that's always the way. No, I meant what I suspected his budget was. It was a joke. Guys always want this or that, with very specific requirements then aren't willing to pay big money.

$3,000

Yes, you are exactly correct. It seems that the Power FC holds a relay on after the car is shut down, then cuts power. This is what APEXi says, anyway. Are you going to buy the Power FC? If so, be sure to get the datalogit or you will have "meth thumb" (a condition which affects meth makers from pushing pseudoephedrine push tablets out of their containers by the hundred to make meth) or "gameboy thumb" (self explanatory).

No, I fixed that problem. I just run constant power to the unit. It does not seem to drain the battery. I was just concerned since the Commander unit will stay on. It has a small LCD screen which is backlit. I suppose if I unplug the Commander it would be no drain. I left it on all weekend and it did not phase my Red Optima. I did put a switch on the ECU so I can cut power to it after turning off the key. It will still retain its memory if I shut it down like that too. The datalogit cures the Gameboy Thumb problem. There are 800+ boxes on the Power FC that need programmed. With just 6 buttons, that requires tons of scrolling. Gameboy Thumb in a major way. The datalogit allows the use of a laptop and maps that are saved to be put in without using the Commander. It saves tons of time and thumbwear.

Do Not Buy this unless you plan on getting the Datalogit which allows it to be connected to a laptop. I got mine back yesterday and it needed tuning, I got someone else's map with similar mods and tried to put it in using the commander. It took 5 hours since there are 800 little boxes to fill in and the commander has six buttons which means you have to scroll to change values. Incidentally, I still did not like the way it ran, so I did a re-initialize and lost all of that data. I restarted the Power FC according to the manual and it now runs great.

I have some SS autochrome. But the parts I got were like dump tube and exhaust manifold. Those are kinda hard to screw up. I don't think I would trust their stuff with moving parts.

I got these for my Z. They appear to fit and are leather. I was impressed with them when they got here. I will have them in on Monday. My car is gray with a black interior so I got the Gray/Black S53 MRC-LEA. I will let you know how they fit and sit. $400 for leather ain't bad. http://www.madracingconcepts.com/Seats/seats.htm BTW, the A4 style at the top of the page are likely to have the same fitment issues as regular A4's being that the top of the seat hits the door and/or window. If you want, I will meet you in Indy sometime to show you the seats.

Too much exhaust restriction. Kinda defeats the purpose of my 3" mandrel bent to block the tailpipe. Might as well use a banana

Man, sorry to hear abou the bad luck

OK, the relay to the APEXi did not work. What I had to do was put a power switch on the ECU which stays on after the engine shuts down. The only problem is that this keeps the Commander on. I think once I quit using the commander all the time, I can leave the switch on without power drain. I think the issue is actually a commander issue instead of a Power FC issue. It needs constant power as wired, but that results in the Commander draining charge with its lighted display.

Turns out that the power to the Apexi Power FC has to be on an additional relay which it holds open to shut down in a particular order. This is apparently an issue on every APEXi Power FC swapped SR20DET. They guys at APEXi immediately knew the problem. If it works (trying today) it is an easy fix.

If you want good gas mileage to help the environment, then maybe an SR20de (non-turbo) is the way to go. If you are wanting good gas mileage to save money, then the L series is probably better. If you can get 18 miles/gallon out of an L series (I personally only ever get about 18 max), you can compare that to an SR20DET which I get 24 or so with my foot in the pedal occasionally. I estimate that it would take 150,000 miles to recoup the costs ($5,000) of installing the SR20DET in your automobile at a 6 mpg difference.

I believe that he has $30K in the car. Most of the tough stuff is done. It even has good 4 wheel disc brakes. The suspension and soft mounting the engine sound like good ideas. WOOHOO, I am the high bidder I bid $153.79!!