Lewis Maudlin

Anyone?

Does anyone know whether leather BMW 318 seats fit? I found a great set of black leather bmw seats. By measuring, it appears they should fit. I would have to fab new brackets. But at $250 for the pair for perfect BMW seats, I don't know how I can pass them up. They are heated but not power. Does anyone know whether they may fit in my 1978 280Z?

So Alex, If I get a distributorless tach adapter, I can hook my tach output on my ecu up to my stock tach? It is that simple?

OK, first, I need a tach that will fit in my stock tach hole. It needs to work with the rpm output on the stock ecu. Second, my car is 740, Z32, GT2871R, Enthalpy tuned, SR20DET with all usual mods. The only hokey item I have is an ebay mbc. I think I can remove the mbc since the GT2871R is internally wastegated at 14 psi. The car is running great now except: My boost hesitates at 7-10 psi for 1-3 seconds. It spools fine then pauses there for 1-3 seconds. Then it spools the rest of the way up to 17 psi just fine. Those 1-3 seconds really slow the car down. 17 psi is crazy. 10 psi is just fun.

If you want reliable, I say, get the Celica or Integra. They run forever and don't use that much gas. The maintenance is very minimal compared to a Chevy or Mustang.

I have a cheapo manual boost controller. I don't really need it since the Garrett GT2871R comes internally wastegated at 14 psi. Could that be causing my hiccup?

I am running my daily driver at 17 psi. I just switched to 740cc, Z32, GT2871R, etc. Here is my problem. As the car spools, it stops temporarily around 7-10psi and hangs there for 1-3 seconds before spooling the rest of the way. Any suggestions? I have an Enthalpy ROM tune for fuel control

I ran stock halfshafts on my 400 hp 355 sbc and now run them on my 350whp sr20det. I have had no problems. However, I never hook up. When I had the sbc, it was a 700R4 auto that would just smoke the tires. The SR20DET does not make crazy horsepower until boost. Typically, it spins just a little, accelerates, hits boost, then starts spinning the tires again. No hard launches on drag tires. I think that is when the problems with the stock halfshafts occur.

I ran air conditioning on mine. It worked fine. I ran all Datsun original equipment and hooked up a Chevy compressor. I think it was mounted on top left side of the motor. The only custom parts were the lines. It worked fine. It would have pumped more air with a Honda blower motor. The air was cold, but the Datsun fan was small for a black car on summer days. Once it cooled off, it was fine.

I second the savage for the money. Not the prettiest gun. Not the best gun. However, it is probably the best gun for the money. The accu-trigger is nice too. Are you sure that you want a bolt gun. I bought a rock river arms AR-15 with a 24" Varmint barrel. According to the magazines, it will shoot a 4.5" group at 500 yards with factory match ammo straight out of the box. That is sub-minute of angle accuracy at 500 yards with a .223. They also have an accuracy guarantee. I got mine out of the box, shot hornady (non-match) ammo. I put about 20 rounds through it, then shot a .25 x 1.5" group at 150 yards off the back of my truck quickly without sandbags. It was windy and the 1.5" deviation was from side to side. It is a tack driver. Most shoot .25" groups at 100 yards when bagged and with a good shooter.

You have unlimited funds. Your door is stuck closed since it was hit. You would like the door to open. Seems stupid but logical to me.

The answer to that is, "Yep, wanna race". The question I get most often from ricers that have just had their doors blown off is, "What is that? It's fast"

Looks ripe for a motor swap.

There is another thread going on E85. They said it is 110 octane. Will that stuff burn? What kind of boost could you get? 2.0-2.5 bar?

If it burns, how high could I crank my boost on my SR20DET? 2.0-2.5 bar?

Oh, sorry, I didn't get the LPG. 'Round here everyone calls it LP. It is such a novel idea for the states that it didn't register with me. Even the alternative fuel cabs that I know of use compressed natural gas rather than LP.

Yes, the octane rating is probably around 100 not 85. The E85 actually has a higher octane rating and burns cooler. A "Casey's" gas station in my area has been selling Super Unleaded for the same price as regular unleaded for quite some time. I used to fill up my 1991 Chevy truck with "Super Unleaded" there until it started to run bad. It took several weeks to notice a problem. I later was told that the reason the Super was the same price as the regular was that the Super contained methanol (probably ethanol) which resulted in a higher octane rating. My 1991 Chevy truck would run on it. It just wouldn't continue to run without problems from the gas.

No one has responded b/c I think people don't know what you are talking about. Please explain the difference between straight gas and Petrol. I thought Petrol was straight gas.

You can't run ethanol in a vehicle that was not designed for it! Don't try it. Do you remember gasohol in the 70's??? One problem is that the ethanol does not have the petroleum base of gasoline. The rubber seals, O-rings and paper gaskets dried out in the 70's. This caused all sorts of problems. The new ethanol E85 contains a lubricant. The new vehicles are designed with different rubber and plastics and gaskets so they don't dry out. E85 is 85% ethanol. Most of the new ford vehicles are designed to use E85. E85 does burn cooler so in theory, you may be able to turn up the boost which is a good thing, but in an L28, you are going to have serious problems.

I watched 2 minutes of the show and I heard it.

Only $25k for an old car with an older motor.

<$2000 b/c I suspect you are getting two rusty Z's. The last Z I bought for $2200 was a rust free poorly running Z that just needed a tune up. Rust free is a lot more valuable since motor parts are easier to replace than the body.

Why not on a 2+2? I would hate to ruin a nice clean Z like that.

In the midwest most charge 7% total. This can be negotiated in some locations. However, people are beginning to use internet listings that charge a flat fee. Just make sure that if you use an internet company that they get you in the local MLS multiple listing service.