Lewis Maudlin
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Posts posted by Lewis Maudlin
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OK, here is what I am trying to figure out. I have an SR20DET powered 280Z. I am running the stock (restrictive) MAF and 370cc injectors. I am considering switching to a standalone and the Z32 MAF and 550cc injectors. I am concerned about this killing my cruising fuel economy. I am not worried about my fuel economy when I have my foot in it.
Intuitively, the larger MAF and larger injectors would pump more fuel and air and use more gas. However, at cruising speeds without boost, wouldn't the same amount of air and gas be being used to turn the same number of rpm's to go the same speed using the same amount of gas? What am I missing in my rationalization?
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OK, the guy now says it is 39:10 and he does not know if it is a VLSD and does not know how to tell. How do I tell if it is a VLSD as opposed to just a regular R200? The gearing is correct for a 1988 VLSD, I believe. Please help, I intend to pick this up on Wednesday if it is a VLSD.
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The jurisdiction does not matter as far as the officer goes. Typically, any officer in the state can enforce any laws in that state. However, the city court judge cannot enforce laws outside of his jurisdiction. If you are in the court for the jurisdiction where you received the ticket, the fact that the officer is from somewhere else does not matter. I agree, do not push issues, try to agree with the state's representative. If this is not possible check with the Court to see if it has jurisdiction over the area in question.
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As a Prosecutor, the questions I always ask defendants:
1. Do you know this officer?
2. Did you know this officer before he pulled you over?
3. Do you know any reason that this officer would make up things about you?
These questions go to bias. Clearly, it is more likely that a person who has gotten a ticket is more likely to embellish to get out of a ticket and save money that an unbiased person just doing his job. That is the argument I make.
Talk to the representative from the state prior to the hearing. Here it is a prosecutor, there it may be a district attorney or a county attorney or a commonwealth attorney. Try to find out if there is any common ground that can be reached. Don't be argumentative. Anything you say, however, will be used against you. Be polite and agreeable without making admissions.
In some jurisdictions, the judge will dismiss the ticket if the officer does not show up at Court. Considering that the ticket was out of his jurisdiction, the officer may not show up. My wife's father gave me a ticket 10 years before I met her. He failed to appear 3 times before the judge dismissed the ticket.
The ticket also must be tried in the jursidiction where it was issued. If you go to Court in another jurisdiction, tell the judge where the ticket was issued. None of this is legal advice only information about the legal process.
I hope this helps
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I'll rent a barge and sail mine down the mississippi for $25k
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OK, I have never gone with a LSD, but I am currently putting down 260hp and looking at switching fuel injectors, MAF, and engine management to put down 350rwhp. I think I need LSD. I have not done the research, however, a guy near my hometown has a Viscous LSD rear end. I asked him gearing and he said it has 40 big teeth. Does anyone know anything good or bad about these? Is there anything I should look for in regards to wear and tear? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Lewis
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The answer to your wheel question is yes. You could make the wheel into an alternator. However, the energy you got would be less than the energy that it takes to turn the wheel. The resistance caused by the magnet setup is greater than the energy produced. No such thing as free energy.
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OK, everyone understand. It is not really lost, just not converted into the energy you were trying to make. It may either be not converted or converted into another form of energy.
Perpetual energy machine does not exist.
Maybe you should make one that runs off of cold fusion instead. Which by the way, is theoretically possible as opposed to perpetual energy.
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OK, I removed my gauges. I used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the gauge guts in the mounting. I used a dremel to cut big holes in the back of the gauge so that the lines would feed without restriction. I pushed the guts and plastic out of the gauges and inserted the autometers. I hooked up the original wiring to the gauges so the lights worked. I have done this on two different Z's. No bending or tools needed other than something to cut the back of the stock gauge housing.
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Have 350Z's really gotten this cheap? I don't know this person and this isn't an advertisement for sale. I just ran across this Z and it got me thinking.
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Thanks for all the Kudos. This is the second project Z I have built. I have had others, but only 2 project Z's. The last one was a V-8 but rust finally got the better of me after everything except paint. It is nice to finally have a nice looking daily driver. My goal was a 12 second daily driver that gets over 25 mpg. I think I am really close. Now, I just need to finish the interior and add air conditioning.
Oh, BTW, the front bumper is the new MSA III which I like a lot better than the MSA Aero II. The thing I didn't like was the rear bumper. I like the clean, no bumper, look. I do not have the skills to fabricate a clean rolled under piece of sheet metal so I took what I could get. I am OK with my choice since on one of the first days I was driving, a teenage girl rear ended me. The mark buffed out of the plastic bumper. I think if it had been bare metal, it would have dented. Whew.
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Well, the description was my mechanic's. I didn't even know pics of my Z were on the web since I hadn't gotten around to taking any pictures yet. I was just surfing the web last night and happened on them. Kind of odd.
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I was surfing the web tonight and found pics of my SR20DET powered 280Z. So much for saying that I need to take pictures. Here is the link.
What do you guys think?
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OK, Z-gad, I am listening. Now the question is which standalone for a novice. I can use a computer and am relatively intelligent. However, I have no experience with this. Is there a standalone that you would recommend?
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Alex, which standalone would you recommend. I need one that is fairly user friendly since I am new to this fuel management stuff. My old carb on my sbc conversion was not so complicated
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I would suggest the alternator but you said the voltmeter doesn't fluctuate. It should be the battery terminals since your car is running off the alternator.
My car was acting goofy during the install and it turned out the crank angle sensor was not properly mounted. Maybe you should check it and the plug going into the crank angle sensor. I understand that the tabs on the plug often break.
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I ran the blue on my sbc conversion. After a while I started running out of gas with a full tank and getting hesitation. As it turned out, the electric fan, stereo, thumping amp and fuel pump were more than the High output alternator could handle. I had to go with the Powermaster 140 amp alternator. Sounds like a similar problem to me.
Oh BTW after other trouble, I switched to a Carter fuel pump and had no more problems.
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Does anyone have any experience with the various standalone systems??? Which one is easiest and works best. I am leaning toward the A'PEXi since it seems easiest to use and is cheapest but many people complain it does not have enough features.
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I thought a standalone would work better? Aren't they programmable? I have no experience with fuel management so I am relying on you guys. I am considering a Z32 MAF and 550 injectors so I think a standalone will be necessary. I may also change the turbo or this or that and don't want to continue sending my ECU out for adjustments which may or may not be correct.
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OK, I am driving and learning about my SR20DET. It looks like a standalone is next. I will worry about a bigger turbo and MAF and injectors later. Which standalone is best for an SR20DET? When I try to research, everyone has bad things to say about each one. Most people complain that the A'PEXi does not have enough options since it is programmable with the Power FC. I have a laptop so that is not an issue. Anyone using standalone? Does anyone have any experience with various standalones? ALEX??? ANYONE???
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I think if you have to ask whether you should sell it, you should sell it for whatever you can get. Yes, I think a nice rust free first gen with an SR20DET should be worth $10-12k.
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So what you are saying is that if I want to upgrade at all, it will be best to go standalone then turbo then MAF and injectors. $1000 standalone and $1000 turbo. $2500 before I see a return...
Oh well, I guess I will just keep driving. BTW, which standalone is the most cost effective? I would like plug and play with laptop or other control.
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Oh, please remember that reliability and cruising mpg are concerns since this is my daily driver of 70 miles a day.
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What are the cons of bigger injectors and MAF?
Cost... about $1000? Injectors, MAF and reprogramming.
MPG??? Isn't this going to cut my mpg significantly? i have trouble keeping my foot out of the accelerator.
Reprogramming...I have a Mine's VX Rom ECU and a stock ECU. I guess I could just have the stock ECU reprogrammed.
If I do change, am I correct in understanding that I can turn out 350rwhp at<15psi. Will I need a bigger turbo? Got a T25 now.
Cruising speed fuel economy
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Yes, I am talking about cruising speed. Same speed, no boost. I think boost is a non issue. I think that the engine load should be the same since the car should be turning the same rpm's to go the same speed.