Lewis Maudlin
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Posts posted by Lewis Maudlin
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OK, I messed up. I was putting in all new Autometer gauges and did not mark the ones that went to the fuel gauge. There is a black, green and yellow. I would assume that the black is a ground. This would make the yellow or the green the ignition. The other would go to the fuel sensor. I am going to use the ground and the ignition on the new temp gauge. Does anyone know or have a book that tells? I would appreciate any help. Thanks.
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Thanks again Alex. Your mounts are great. Just gotta get these fuel injectors to fire.
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I have been to that site. Here is what it says near the top.
"English manual - No S13 SR20DET Manual available, don't ask!"
I don't think they have one. Anyone know where to look.
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OK, install completed. My fuel injectors aren't firing very often. Either my computer is toast or there is a problem with the wiring somewhere. Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for the S13?
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Back when I was a motorcyclist, I remember reading an article about a company that was making a siamesed Hayabusa engine. It was two Hayabusa joined. It was something like a 200 lb V-8 that put out some decent numbers even in torque. It also would fit in a 2'x2' box. Maybe a couple of those in a Z. One in the trunk and one under the hood would give you the acceleration you desire. I think the engine was supposed to retail around $13,000.00.
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They had it!!!! Thanks!!!
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Of course I called. What kind of question is that? Maybe it wasn't the question so much as the tone? "Did you EVEN...".
Anyway, I do appreciate the help, but they did not have one available.
Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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You guys aren't much help. I still haven't been able to locate a starter. My car still sits. Anyone know where I can get a good used SR20DET starter? I have called around still no luck.
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I still haven't been able to find one. Anyone with other suggestions?
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my swap is stalled. I need a starter. There were 3 on ebay last week and I didn't get one. anyone know where I can get one? I found one online for $825, but the ones on ebay were $50-100. I prefer $50-100. Any suggestions?
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I was just curious how many 1st gen Z's are now running SR20DET's.
Mine is going to be finished this week. I am running the T28 with a FMIC, 3" mandrel bent exhaust, a ported and polished aftermarket intake manifold, an exhaust manifold and Walbro fuel pump. Everything else is pretty much stock. I thought about the 550 injectors and Z32 MAF, but I think those things will cut my fuel economy too much. I drive 70 miles a day.
Anyone have any other suggestions?
Anyone know of an economical way to put in an LSD rear end?
Anyone run any 1/4's in their Z?
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Almost any motor can be put in almost any car. The question you need to ask is how much fabrication is involved and how much of a gearing issue will you have? Sounds neat. There was a guy with a WVO 280Z for sale on ebay a while back. I also saw it in several magazines.
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A v-8 would have to have much more hp to get the same power to weight. A 400 hp V-8 that weighs 2600 lbs would be slow compared to a 2100lb car with the same power. 2100 lbs and 400whp would require a V-8 to put out around 500hp at the wheels to get the same power to weight ratio. I was just mentioning that the power to weight of the car was what I consider optimal. Yes you can put as much hp as you want in a Z, but the more hp you have the more factory components you will have to replace. Frankly, I would worry about the stock rear end at 500whp. Most guys running numbers those big end up giving up their IRS so it doesn't explode.
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This is from the US EPA.
A 1992 automatic Eagle Talon' date=' 2.0 NA gets 22 city/27 highway
A 1992 automatic Eagle Talan, 2.0 Turbo gets 18 city/21 highway
The ONLY difference between the cars is one is turbo the other isn't. Both are 4G63's, both weigh the same, both have the same drivewheels, both have the same cD[/quote']
Those EPA estimates are just that. A guess by the EPA of fuel economy for a particular car based on engine size, weight, transmission and possibly aspiration. The estimate does not necessarily bear much relationship to actual fuel economy for that particular car. It is based on similar cars of the same engine size, transmission and weight. I guess this means that in the EPA's experience, similarly equipped vehicles get better gas mileage without a turbo. I don't know whether this holds true for all vehicles or just for the vehicles which the EPA tested prior to 1992.
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Of course the KA can be built with all new parts. Forged connecting rods and pistons. That doesn't sound cheaper than an SR. Buy a crate SR or buy a KA for nothing then do a complete rebuild with all new internals. Then add a turbo kit.
+Then you have a motor with parts you know.
However, you have spent almost as much money.
- you have less HP
- you have more weight
- you have less potential HP
I don't mean to argue, but am I missing something here?
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You people are crazy. Swap in a small truck motor??? The KA. I don't think you will save any weight and the motor puts out less hp stock than the L28e N/A. Tops hp for a reliable KA is 200whp on stock internals. Instead of putting in that little motor, how about real weight savings. I have a Kohler I will sell you. The motor weighs about 80 lbs. I am sure that with a little tweaking you could get 12 or maybe even 13 hp. But you would save a lot of weight and have all kinds of extra space for storage up front.
I do mean to sound sarcastic, but, swapping in a small heavy inferior motor just doesn't make sense. The SR20DET is just as supported on the aftermarket, just not in the pick and pull. It is a lot lighter and can make huge hp on stock internals.
I wonder if anyone has put a KA in a Silvia. That may be a good swap for you Olie.
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Well, in looking at your swaps, they are so far back that there isn't space for the heater hose. That's what made me wonder. I need to have a car that is driveable. Creature comforts like defrost and heat are nice. Especially in a car so small that the windows fog up if you breath.
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I went with the Megan N1 with the 3" inlet. I could not find a Megan dual outlet with a 3" inlet so I opted for the single 4" outlet. Thanks to everyone for their help.
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those are all probably good questions for SR20forum.com I have found info there in the past. It is mainly people with NA SR20's. The SR20DE.
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Are you guys with SR20DET's running heat? We have already established that no one is running air.
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Whose hood are you talking about?
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What muffler are you guys running? Are you running one? I understand that the turbo quiets the exhaust quite a bit. I am running 3" mandrel bent all the way back. I was considering putting on a muffler or running it straight. Any suggestions? Is it going to be way loud without a muffler? Ebay is loaded with cheap turbo mufflers. Any suggestions?
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More than likely, the snake was ripped open by the alligator in the fight. Or, at least, the snakes structural integrity was compromised by the gator's bites. Then when the snake attempted to swallow, it got more than a mouthful.
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I will have A/C in my car. Mine is a daily driver and is useless without A/C for a few months of the year. Does anyone have any suggestions? Will the Vintage Air unit still need the compressor in the same location on the SR block? I think the SR and the steering rack are not going to accomodate the stock A/C compressor. Any ideas better than "towing a car with A/C and piping the air into my car" would be appreciated.
What color wire is ignition behind fuel gauge?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Thanks Jamie, that is what I needed to know.