Lewis Maudlin

You never said whether you looked on the ground. Sounds like your overflow or radiator cap is allowing it to spill on the ground. Fill it up with coolant then let it idle in the driveway for a while after it has warmed up. Let us know if there is a wet spot.

Agreed, or JC Whitney or Summitracing.com or any company. I don't think they cost $50.

Vaccuum by itself won't work. The dirt has been bonding to the metal for 30 years. Some amount of water is needed.

OK, I got my "rust free" donor from Oregon. It is mostly rust free. I am starting to dynamat parts for the car and/or insulate. The problem I have is that there is 30 years of dust or dirt in the car. I have stripped the interior and the dust is a major pain in every nook and cranny. Would I be completely crazy to just take my pressure washer on its lowest setting and clean the dirt? I figure I could vaccuum excess water out with the shop vac then put it in my garage with my dehumidifier in the car for a couple of day. I then intend to spray some Eastwood rust encapsulator then dynamat. What do you think? Bad idea or it will work? http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=618

The point was that the joker claimed it was for installation in an S30 Z for $2500 in less than 6 hours. He finally admitted in the original post that he misunderstood his friend's quote.

Man you guys got it rough in CA. I keep seeing pictures of 100 year old military weapons on this site. Sporterized or not, they are still 100 year old military weapons. I admit, I do own an SKS, but I have a few AK's and a nice Rock River with a 24" barrel that can shoot sub MOA at 500 yards and one hole all day at 100 yards.

Did you guys see this post? I called BS. I guess I could also install at that price, $50 off if it takes more than 6 hours and another $50 off if it takes more than 6 years and another $50 off it takes more than 25 years

Is it inappropriate for me to call BS? No way.

OK, for those that have SR20DET's in their first gens, what rear end ratio are you running? I have a 1978 M/T so I am running a 3.54. However, my powerbrute lsd is on its way so I was thinking about changing gear ratios? Do you have any suggestions? If I grab a diff at the pick and pull with a different ratio am I going to run into problems? Wasn't the SR20 in the Silvia with a 4.11 rear? Of course that was a much heavier car. My car screams and gets 30mpg, but I was thinking...

I purchased one off ebay with garrett internals for $400, it lasted 15 minutes. It was replaced with one that "really" had garrett internals, it didn't last 5 minutes. I bought a garrett GT2871R for $1000. I daily drive it at 18psi.

At one time, I listed my full swap including prices. I have since switched to the Power FC D-Jetro. A standalone is expensive, but I spent a lot more trying to keep from using a standalone. I should have done this from the start since it did away with the recirculation from the BOV, the MAF and the O2 sensor. I was happy to just throw the MAF out entirely. A MAP based standalone is the only way I will go in the future. My swap is a daily driver SR20DET with 350-400hp at the wheels. I get 30 mpg during normal daily driving. The boost is set at 18psi for daily driving. In regards to the initial comment that the RB is a "better" swap, I do not understand what the person means by better. That probably depends on his goals. I think the SR20DET is the perfect swap for my goals. I wanted a driver that I could commute to work in at 70 miles roundtrip a day, that would not bankrupt me on gas, that was extremely quick and would likely run a 12 second quarter on street tires. So my goals were: 1. reliability 2. speed 3. gas mileage. In theory with real tires and a decent driver, my car should run the 1/4 in the high 10's or low 11's with the boost turned up a little more.

I am running 18psi and daily driving my SR20DET. I get about 30 miles/gallon depending on how much I put my foot in it. Definitely, go with the 740's. My GT2871R would keep 550's at 95-100% duty cycle. I would rather run the bigger injectors at a lower duty cycle. The 3" downpipe is a must. Ask around. I have a buddy that has had two that have cracked. I got mine off ebay and it has been fine. He got his off ebay and it broke. The standalone is a good suggestion. I know you are on a budget, but it cost me more to get the computer running right than for any other part of the car. The best move I made was finally going with a MAP sensor and doing away with a lot. I no longer have a MAF sensor or 02 sensor for the computer. How great is that.

yes, I tried that, their temp sensors did not say what temperature they activated at

OK, I have been driving my car again for a while. I worked out the ECU issues by putting in a Power FC D-Jetro. My question is where I can find a temperature sensor. I have the camaro radiator with a taurus fan. It cools fine, but when sitting in traffic, the car heats up. The fan does not kick on until the sensor reaches 200 degrees. The sensor is on the radiator. The guage which has a sensor on the block reads 218 before the fan kicks on. I dunno if the gauge is incorrect or if the block is 20 degrees hotter than the coolant temp. Either way, I would like to find a 3/8" NPT temperature sensor with one pole that kicks the fan on at 180 degrees instead of 200. Any suggestions?

I am still working on putting 318 seats in my car. They are a pain since the seats mount from side bolts instead of bottom bolts.

Rear engine Mini with blower.

177 mph om the street is a bad idea

check freshalloy. One guy there has a sweet red SR20DET powered roadster. Look in the clssic datsun forums.

OK, here's the scoop. Anyone with an SR20DET may benefit from my experience. Apparently, the ECU board is bad or the connection to the daughterboard. This explains why from time to time my car has run great. I used to run a different Mine's tuned ECU. Word is that cars with bad ECU's run without a tuning map and run extremely rich. So if this happens to you, now you know.

DITTO!

Nice move, only I don't have a Z32 ECU. That is what the MAF is from. Apparently, you decided to change the title without know what we are talking about? Anyway, I will check to voltage. That could be an issue. Good suggestion on the voltage. The MAF has now been checked on a machine to check MAF's. It is within spec and working properly.

Checked, checked and checked. Still no problems other than 10:1 or richer at idle. Maybe the harness is the issue? I think it is the only thing other than the block I have not replaced.

11:1 is the leanest I can get it. It might lean further under enough boost. That was at idle

OK, since I changed to the Z32, 740's and GT2871R, I have been having an issue. The car runs rich. I have checked everything except the MAF and the computer. The computer has an enthalpy ROM tune. Enthalpy has been good to deal with and has sent other chips. Even with an AFC maxed out, I can only get to 11:1 AFR. Anyone have a suggestion?

Personally, I would use a ruler or a micrometer or a ring guage.