John Scott

So far bracing is a success! I was "burning" through a belt a week with the 3.95 pulley. I can't afford a new belt 'till I start working, so I've been recycling some old ones. Usually this lasts one good run. After many hard runs, it is showing no wear. I think a better design can be made to disperse the load using two housing bolts. The load on the single 1/4" bolt concerns me. Anyway, it's been nice to hammer it to the limit w/o the belt tossing or slipping. Once I get a new belt on I'll document the longivity. JS

I'd bey there are more variables to the equation. Aluminum, no doubt, combustion chamber design, rod length, cam specs, altitude etc. What the #%^& did you decide on anyway Frog? Remind me to inhale before you start it up. Might be my last breath JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 06, 2001).]

I agree with the small lobe sep angle. Helps the low end and adds to the lope. Used to run a 256 @ .050 with 106 lsa. Really nasty!! Heck, call comp cams tech. Tell them exactly what you're looking for. There's an article addressing this in a recent performance magazine. Anyone remember? JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 06, 2001).]

Kevin, this build sounds similar (cam specs) to my friends 377. He was well over the $5K using high dollar 6" rods and JE pistons. Angle milled Brodix. The thing sounds like a screaming banshee, shaking the house, literally, 1/2 block away. With cam specs like that, I don't know if the idle ever smooths out!! He claims the 2 bolt is stronger than the 4 bolt conversion(?) Can run pump gas with the 11:1s, but prefers the good stuff for a little more timing. Certain block castings are preferred. Anyone know the casting #s? Ungodly fast and trouble free for 5 straight seasons. I want one! JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 03, 2001).]

Sorry guys, but I'm going to dissagree with some of you on this one. I have SOOO many articles on the 700 that say do not run the 700 w/o the lock up. Their a few years old now, but unless the information has changed I'd look into it further. I learned the lock up is crucial to the lubrication circuit in 4th. If you run a non lock up converter, at least the one I tried years ago, the check ball in the input shaft must be removed and a special valve and plug is installed in the pump body. The only valve bodies cabable of wot 4th gear were the Z28s and Vettes. Simple solution is like Andrew mentions, wired to the valve in the 4th gear port in the valve body. Takes about 15 minutes to install. Toyshop 909-620-5849 also makes this and is cheap. When you slow down in 4th the engine may buck, but at REALLy slow speeds there isn't enough pressure to maintain lock up and it will disengauge. I recommend the brake switch defeat. Some where along the line lock up and 4th gear are being confused. The 700 has 4 forward gears, the last of course being the .7 OD. Lock up is the process of the converter going to "direct drive" (is it an electric solinoid allowing fluid pressure to the lock up?) eliminating the usual slippage seen in autos. If you've seen the lock up surface in a 700 converter it is incrediably small! Please correct me if I'm wrong and steer me to more current articles. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 03, 2001).]

Nevermind. I was going to recommend the Mallory 140, but not cheap. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 01, 2001).]

I turned the engine 1 revolution by hand to purge the gasoline, let it air out overnight, then sqirted oil in all the cylinders from the spark plug hole, rotated a few more times. I found I had too little fuel pressure @ 10" vacuum, 1-2psi. Added a universal check valve inline to the regulator so only boost would alter pressure. Now I have 7psi @ all vacuum to 0. Finally, everything is where it should be. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 31, 2001).]

I can tell you not to buy the cheapest B&M. I HATED it. The non ratchet type are hell to run through the gears w/o over running the detents. Throw in a lot of adrenaline, a fast revving engine and it really screws things up. JS

Scottie, When you install the hoop, could you post the NHRA requirements for positioning? Can't remember. I've got one sitting in a toolbox. Not doing any good in there. JS

Thanks for the tip. I tried the strut tower mod after reading it in a Mustang magazine. Really nasty engines vibrations transmitted in the cabin, I disconnected.The additional steel plate might be the ticket. JS

Replaced my idler bearing, seems a little tighter, now the task of bracing the Procharger. I've added, with minimal success, some braces from various points on the mounting bracket. I could still flex the mounts by squeezing the belt, noting about 1/8" movement. I can only imagine how much movement I'm getting at full boost. The optimal location for the brace is off the outboard side of the compressor housing, right next to the strut and fender. I fabricated a steel strap that mounts from one of the housing retaining bolts, and angles downward toward the # 5 exhaust bolt. Another small 1" bracket mounts to the header bolt hole. Used a small turnbuckle and tightened. No more movement! I hope my belt eating habit is done. Those suckers are expensive. Summit sells the Good year Poly V belts for $6-7 less than the auto parts stores.

Fianlly got my 30 psi fuel guage. Set it up like Scottie GNZ, adding boost to the regulator and noting pressure. 0 vacuum was 9 psi. 5 lb= 14psi, 10= 15 lbs uh-oh, 15 psi boost still 15 psi!!! You can't push 15 psi of fuel into a 16 psi pressurized float bowl. Sam, at century performance insisted the Mallory 140 works well with boosted engines, regardless of what the flow chart says. I was sceptical. Set the pump wide open, as recommended, adjusted regulator, and presto. 7psi fuel at 0. 22psi @ 15 psi boost. I know line size is very important at the lower naturally aspirated pump levels. Now I'm questioning how much a smaller line will flow at a higher pump pressure. I'd guess with my application, I'll still be in the zone,...we'll see. In the meantime I wonder if my bowls had enough fuel for the time spent @15+ psi boost? Ignorance is another strong vote for forged pistons. Addendum 11:40AM I have to cringe at my last sentence NOTE: If you have a high pressure pump, don't forget to disconnect the lines to the carburtetor and plug them securely! The needle and seat can handle only about 11 psi, or so I've been told. Anyone care to guess what happens in about 15 seconds if you dont? Gas will run out the top of the carb, and quickly fill all the cylinders. What a dumb #$%! If anyone were unlucky enough to have this happen and manage to get a cylinder to fire, a hydro lock would occur and possibly bend a rod. Remove all sparkplugs, turn engine over by hand. Of course the battery was disconnected and fire extinguisher is handy. After my oil pan is drained and the engine is aired out. I'm going to put on my pointy hat and sit in the corner. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 30, 2001).]

Return line insures a fresh supply of fuel to the engine, when used in conjuction with a return style regulator. Helps to reduce vapor lock and allows more consistant fuel pressure from regulaor to carb. Some mechanical pumps also have a return port. I highly recommend using the return style. See other posts on this issue. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 30, 2001).]

The diversity in projects here is what makes this such a great site. We probably have a greater than 600 hp spread in our cars and still can get along. 0-60 3 seconds is fast, 2s incredible, 1s unthinkable. Ron ought to charge for rides! Some of us are having fun kicking sand in the face of conventional fast cars, others are trying to break the sound barrier. A car math link would be cool. JS

Why the HUGE difference in price for the electrical fuel pressure guages? I'm getting quotes for around $180 for electrical! A mechan is only mid $30s. I really don't want a cowl mounted guage. One model electric (0-100)Auto meter 2 1/16 for only $79.95. Has anyone tried this model? What is everyone else using? I need a 0-25psi.

These are the Chevy Part #s. I assume their the same on the aftermarket as the stock. 12101857 is the brake light connector, 12085485 is the reverse. Also, unless this has been brought up, the reverse lock out is spring loaded. It can be "crashed" through with minimal effort if needed. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 22, 2001).]

For those of you that remember, I was having the wierdest carb problem. Engine would hit a rpm, 4-5000 and just stick like a rev limiter. I rebuilt the carb 3 times and finally bought a new secondary block. Seemed to go away. Returned today, but while I was messing with the fuel pressure. Seems that the pump hit so hard at 0 vacuum (15+ psi) it would blow fuel right past the boosters. With the pressure somewhat lower the engine is really picking up now. I need a fuel pressure guage I can monitor while driving. I don't like the external cowl mount guages. My own rookie error. Back to traction problems... my favorite. Got to do something about these 225/50 16 crap tires. Slow 1000 rpm rolling start, as soon as rpms hit 3500-4000 tires go up in smoke. New MSD 6AL stops the action right at 7000! Any Pressure gauge recommendations? I need a 0-25 psi. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 21, 2001).]

Welcome Don, I think most would agree the Powerdyne isn't the most reliable system and their boost claims are somewhat inflated. I'm biased towards ATI. They cover all the bases from mild to wild. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 18, 2001).]

Here's some more info. I've been gathering recently from www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp : Minimum line size from pump to regulator for hp, regardless of pump: 250= 5/16 or -4 375= 3/8 or -6 550= 1/2 or -8. Also, with the .5 lb fuel/hp rule, 400 hp= 33 gph. Since fuel pressures are rated in free flowing, you can pretty much disregard a pump's advertised rating for satisfying hp. With a dead head style regulator, not as effecient or precise as a return style, to the carburetor, multiply your max hp 400 x .23= a 91 gph pump. This is the minimum size for 400 hp. With a return style regulator, more effecient, multiply your 400 x .17= 68 gph pump. I don't agree on using a smaller return line than feed line with a return style regulator. A larger or at least same size line allows the pump to run at minimum effort. This is why a return syle regulated pump will outlast the deadhead style, which has to constantly be banging up against the pressurized fuel. Return style regulators keep the pump cooler, run cooler fuel and have more accurate pressure. Pressure is determined by rerouting excess fuel rather than stopping and starting like the dead head. Return line size should be based on pump volume. 45 gph/-4 line, 90gpm/-6, 180 gph/-8. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 19, 2001).]

I was reading a really old Turbo book and they suggested running another fuel pump, downstream from the primary pump that can be boost activated for blow through carbs. I'd love to afford the new Aeromotive pump, but was thinking this might be a good temporary solution. My Mallory 140 provides plenty of fuel, I just need a pump to be able to run the 25 or so psi at maximum boost. With the Mallory feeding the secondary pump, it should be able to supply well. I'll need to see if the regulator can provide a low enough psi for the needle and seat issue as well as being able to keep the pressure up to 25 as needed. ATI said the regulator will probably work. Any thoughts on a pump from any stock vechicle I can try? Aftermarket? How much pressure do the TBI pumps run? JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 14, 2001).]

Since we had a lively post on front wheel drive a while back.., anyone catch the April Motortrend on the Z06 vs Ford FR200 Focus? Granted it has millions in Ford engineering backing it up, but the thing puts out 304 hp, out slaloms and laps the Z06! Incredible! Darn respectable 107 mph in the 1/4 too. Weight is heavier than a Hybrid V8Z @ 2780. 153.2 hp/L. Just goes to show that with enough $$ anything can go fast. 304hp 285/ft/lb@3500 would be a nice light engine in a Z! [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 14, 2001).]

You could mount the 4.3 with the JTR mounts, same as sbc, but the balance of the car would suffer, transmission would be forward and driveshaft longer. The sbc can be had in so many different performance and price levels. JS

I've had two situations that mimicked rod knocks. first was a camshaft that had too much play in the block causing one of the lobes to strike the block under load. Ouch! That trashed all the cam, bearings and a cylinder wall. The other was loose converter bolts. Sounds crazy but they really do sound like a bad engine knock when they loosen. I hope you find something like the latter. Good luck. JS

Also, say one had a new 10105123 350 bare block. Would you be losing that much hp if you left the original 4" bore and ended up with a 377 ci? KB makes a standard piston w/correct pin offset. I'd like the idea of having a another rebuild with the additions of .030s someday. JS

Chris, thanks for some comparp. #s The track 1s out of box .200 103/130 .300 142/178 .400 165/223 .500 175/256 .600 183/259 .650 183/262 Sorry, but what are the AFR heads? What size intake/exhaust. How much? The fast burns flow suprisingly well for such small valves! JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 11, 2001).]