John Scott

Compressed air is the way to go. Fittings avail. from auto part stores. Once under pressure. Give the valve stem a couple of light raps with a leather or other soft compound hammer to loosen the valve stem retainer. Rope works, but the risk is having it tangle in the cylinder and having to pull the head anyway. Been there done that JS

MalloryUnilite, for the small cap to fit w/ 4bbl on the 4.3. MSD 6AL w/ 7000chip. Amazing how often I used to run into the rev limiter JS

Oh the perversity of the inanimate! I'd double check the powervalve, for starters. Make sure the one he picked is two numbers below engine vacuum in drive. looking at the face of the PV with the letter on the left, the #s on the right top, then bottom will be the vacuum rating. If its blown all together you get a dead rich condition that will kill an engine under load at low rpm. Also since its just "rebuilt" check for gasket mismatch. Good luck! JS

So I made the mods to the carb last night. Hacked off the choke horn, changed float and sealed the choke linkage hole. Takes about five minutes. Clueless on how to jet this thing for supercharged...,but where's the sport in knowing everything? Kinda the final experiment with my 4.3. Update: Thumbs down. For a second or so, off the line, I thought I was on to something. Great throttle response due to smaller cfm, smokes tires at the lightest touch, then falls way short on power on mid and upper. Obviously, no amount of jetting was going to make up for the power loss. Oh well, had to try. JS

If you mess up your ferrule, don't buy a whole new line kit. You can buy them in bulk from a well supplied auto store. If you use it, don't over tighten. JS

Pete, if you have the time..could you run another??? 383 242/248, 570/576, 110. 10.7:1. AFR 195, victor Jr. 750 cfm. Love to see how it compares to the dyno up here when we test it this summer. JS

No, your on track here. Trouble is with some trans. placements the tail end needs to go up sometimes causing tunnel clearance problems. If you have the room to play, then try it. I've used shims under the mounts on my automatic with great results, in fact I should do the same with my T56. The new urethane mount really transmits the vibes. My engine transmission is low enough to raise the tailshaft another 1-1/2". I found a 1/4" raise was good for the auto. JS

BLKMGK, Looking for a 600B or newer bigger? Whats cheap enough? JS

I've done hours of calling listening etc. Not realy a consistant science, is it. The only way to get a better low end is to get some of that duration out. The down side is you lose the upper end. A wider lobe sep angle will help clean up the idle, but the tighter the angle the sooner harder and more compact the power comes on. Solid designs can run a bigger cam than equiv. hydral. The cam that AFR uses in their advertisement is CC # CSXR288HR-10 236/242, 520/540 on 110 lobe sep. You'd still have a pretty nasty idle due to the 110, but the smaller duration would help. I'd guess the power range to be 2-6000. They claim 500+hp 500+ ft lb. I agree the 215 heads your lift could be a lot more than this profile. Custom grind! Isky and CC finally agree on my cam. Coincidence? Probably. JS [ November 04, 2001: Message edited by: John Scott ]

OOps! Glad you got it figured out. I once forgot to bolt up the driveshaft to the rear on a Toyota Hybrid on its maiden trip to the muffler shop. Whakakakaka! JS

I'm seeing not all pans will fit a stroker crank. What works w/o losing too much ground clearance. Anyone try the kind with kicked out sides on the sump? JS

Aftermarket T56 uses T5 bell housing. Small diam Flywheel, I'm using lightweight nodular iron 15 lbs. Centerforce dual friction. Camaro starter. Rated 400 lb-ft. oem T56 w/2.66 first gear 450 lb-ft. Breaking rears/ Outa my league! JS

My 6th is only .62 overdrive. 65 mph is 2000. we have plenty of 75mph highway which is about 2200. I don't know if that will be high enough rpm to use. Mike, wouldn't your current cam specs + 6th gear be good for your top end Silver state runs? The rest of the time .74 5th is still a pretty good overdrive. JS

Mikelly, and others at wht rpm does your cam become "drivable" in 6th? You mentiond some problems below 2,000, right? I need to decide quick if a solid roller is the way to go. With the .570+ lift I want, the duration goes WAY up in a solid flat tappet. I can keep 242/248 w/.570 in the roller. JS

Other heads are available. Brodix. Check the sy typhoon sites. Some of the older alum.versions pop up. Some unused. Ron Jones has a drag friend that I think was running a Nascar 4.3 in his Miata. 8000+ redline? 650 hp on Nitrous. Melted a piston. JS

quote: Originally posted by zthang43: Has anyone else out there done the 4.3 Z swap? I'm really interested to hear other opinions about it. Also, I've had trouble finding certain parts, such as shorty (block hugger) headers and some performance heads. Does anybody know where to find this stuff? Look in the members rides I've been running the 4.3 in my Z for 5 or 6 years. I think Sanderson has a good shorty header. I had mine made. Heads avail. from Chevy and Brodix. Forged cranks are out there but really expensive. When I pull my engine out I'll have some parts for sale. Performer 4.3 manifold, Mallory unilite, CC Magnum Rollerrockers. The Qjet set up is nice. I ran it for 150K in my Toyota PU. I've run the 4.3 since late 80s. Its a great engine. I just ready to play with V8s again. JS

What does a roll cage, say 8 pt. add to the weight of the Zcar? JS

'85 4.3 V6. 7.5:1 Forged. Cam: CC 232 @ .050 .483, 114degree. Edelbrock performer. Ported stock heads, Manley proflow valves, CC magnum roller rockers, Holley 600 dbl pmpr, Mallory distrib, 140 fuelpump and regulator, MSD 6AL 7000 rpm rev limiter, Fluidamper, ATI 600B Procharger up to 18 psi, 14 right now. Custom made headers, dual 2 1/2 into 3". Tremec aftermarket 6 speed, centerforce dual friction clutch, nodular iron lightweight flywheel. 3.54 200 rear. 16" Centerlines Falken Ziex 205 50/ 225 50. Getting close to starting round II: 383 sbc Scat lightweight 6", forged rods, AFR 195s, Victor Jr, CC# 12-7771-8 solid 242/248 @ .050, 570/576,110.(this will be the first "off the shelf" cam I've used in 10+ years!) Forged SRP 10.5-11.0:1. Stay tuned! JS [ October 09, 2001: Message edited by: John Scott ] [ October 10, 2001: Message edited by: John Scott ]

How 'bout swapping another carb? Surely another gearhead can lend you one for a quick test. JS

Have a friend who owns a mufflershop. Had a beautiful BB chev 427ci pull truck with 180s. Sounded WILD. Like a huge zipper amplified 1000 times. Been for rides in a 10,000 rpm snmall block car. Always made me cringe once it was above 8,000 Oh yeah, change the sound...How about dropping in a 6 JS [ October 04, 2001: Message edited by: John Scott ]

Pete, understood, squat is transfer of weight making the Z a great car off the line. As Ron Jones was saying about the video of Nozcar, a lot of time is spent squatting instead of forward motion. Would be quicker with a stiffer rear. I agree CVs are the best for anything but a dedicated drag car, but for someone insisting on dragracing an IRS, with sticky and big enough slicks, perhaps the ujoints 1/2s might be stronger. Hmmm don't most tracks frown on sub 10s w/o a solid rear? JS

Wow, sounds like a lota ponies! Love to see some pictures. I know the answer for many here is the CV conversion, so I'm just adding info I've been told. The owner of Northern CO drivelines has been preaching to me for a while that a ujoint 1/2 shaft is stonger than CVs. CVs work better when wierd angles are applied, but will ultimately fail a twisting sheer before a good u joint system. He's offered to fabricate a set if I ever get into the big leagues! Keep the rear angles in check and who knows? Sounds like you've found the other weak links in the system. JS

I wired mine to my choke indicator bulb. Works fine. If the bulb were to fail the engine won't turn off. The diode might be a better solution, but I'm on my second conversion using the bulb method. JS [ September 27, 2001: Message edited by: John Scott ]

BLKMGK, ouch! your pain, our gain. Never thought the header issue was going to be this tough. Not sure if you mentioned, but is your port mismatch as bad with the Hookers? JS

One of my old posts Sept 2000, search "slave cylinder T5" #s are: Brakeware(Bendix): 10380 Wagner:F126869, Raybestos:SC37821. Verify #s. This is a slave that uses the press in fitting with retaining pin like original. It has a bleeder. Purchassed it from Autozone. I guess you could tap it. Again, I used JuJu's Ford 7/8" MC, Ford plastic line, and this slave. Works Great! JS [ September 23, 2001: Message edited by: John Scott ]