John Scott

Now that I have the motor coming along, I need to start the research into brakes and suspension. I've been visiting with a few Hybrid members and am wondering if rear discs are really necessary for street use. I want to have the ability to haul down from triple digits and ocassional canyon run without problems. Sounds like some who race pretty regularly just have big nasty front brakes and leave the rears a drum setup. 4 wheel disc is nice to look at, but do I need it? Opinions please. JS

I'm curious about what our resident engine guru will say too. I'd guess the Vic.Jr would work pretty well with that duration and rpm. According to what I've researched, it offers a better range of rpm than you'd think. I'm figuring around 246/8 duration 11.1:1 with aluminum heads to be at the pump gas limit at our skinny air altitude, 91 octane. Using forged pistons just in case. Might want to consider your local octane, compression, and air density. On the computer dyno the hp #s get bigger with the high compression. Make sure you can use it. Do you really want to be blending race gas, or shudder, additives? JS

DRK, welcome to the madness!! hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah! JS

I've been planning my build for a long time. I already miss one of the finest rewards of all this nonsense, at least for me, DRIVING it. My goal is to build the nastiest street engine, broad torque band, high hp, I can within certain RPM(6000 under), pump gas, budget, and timeframe. If Grumpy's figures are close, then 489hp @ 5500, 501@4600 is coming pretty close to my goals. Grumpy, I've gone route#3 on your post above. You've been a great help with your testing of a few cam choices, the last with input from my builder. I quote you..."BTW thats one of the best combos with a good wide torque band I've ever seen on a 383..." I can no longer count the phone calls to cam companys. I couldn't believe the difference from tech to tech and day to day. I read researched and averaged all the info I could get. I then spewed this all to my engine builder. He said I was in the ballpark, but here is what I've found on the dyno and the track...Our altitude, your head choice with the 383... There are some of the new profiles not even in the catalogs we're testing. I've had really good results using this with that and so on.. I'm fascinated by the subject, but theory and having dozens of engines built, dyno'd, raced, cant compete. The only job thig guy has had for 18 years is flowing heads and building race engines. I've had really good luck with the custom grinds, but to have a successful builder say, that would be OK, but I've found this will work better, is what I want to hear right now. His name goes on the valve covers. He wants you to have the fastest car at the track. Good advertising. Pete, I've always wondered what made things tick, I admire the way you dig way deeper than most would dare to go. JS

I've been taken by bad engine builders too. Had a new company trash my block, really nice rods, crank, late 80s, then go under a month later. This was to be my dream engine, Arias, Mondello, Engle, $1700 in the heads(lots of cash then) and it went down the drain. This time I talked to the successful drag racers, other machinists, builders, and confirmed everything. 18+ years flowing heads, building race engines. Happy customers. Doing it yourself is only as good as your ability and knowhow. How many of us have access and ability to the equipment to machine/ balance/ blueprint an engine to race standards. You can assemble an engine, use your micrometer to check on some of the clearances. You can confirm the parts going into it. You still need to have some faith in your machinist and balancer. A good builder/balancer will document every tolerance, piece and give you the specs. In some cases, a reputable builder knows what will work on a specific combo., cutting edge technology, or altitude. Do some background checks. If you have the time and expertise, by all means go for it. I no longer have the time. My idea of what works are dated. The time I save by having a pro doing the assembling, blueprinting, flow testing, tuning I can earn another $1000. JS

What Greimann said, then jet the secondary side for MPH, not ET in 1/4 mi. Lastly adjust pump shot and squirters for best 60 ft. JS

Rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. Thin and synthetic oils give a lower reading, but as you state will not rise with rpm. I've had pick up come loose and seen oil pressure vary on cornering and stopping. Might check with another gauge, sender, if electronic. Then if still reads low, pull the pan and check pick up. Hope its something simple, good luck. JS

For those of you considering Scat, the 9000 series 6" neutral balance is running around $280. 4340 standard weight forged is about $600. The superlight forged is pushing close to $1000. Scat claims the 9000 good for 600 hp. How fast do you want to go? After all, its only money. My point with h vs I beams was not an issue of strenth, but $100+ savings on the I beams can go somewhere else in the engine if you don't need the H beam. JS

After buying off the shelf varieties for years, then moving up to custom grinds recommended by a cam techie sitting behind a phone, I shutting up and letting my builder do his thing. I've given all the vehicle specs, rpms, and everything I've read about cams lately. His advice is: "I choose a cam grind after I'm done with the heads and have the flow #s. That way I can taylor the cam right down to the lobe profile for a specific application." By his experience we know it will be at or slightly above .600 with duration in the mid high 240s. Also surprising is the size of the intake valve. He knows what works up here. Lift, duration, and even lobe profiles are taylored to the engine, components, and its application. I could never guess which lobe to choose, and only have basic idea of the rest of the specs. The other racers seem pleased with the results. I guess this is why he's doing the dirty work and I'm saving my pennies like crazy.. JS

Yikes! Not to be throwing my whole shopping list at you, but the SRP forged (JE) are a fairly inexpensive. $450? Like Grumpy said, the 6" is supposed to good for a little more power and lighter to boot. Might give them a look. Consider staying out of the garage for the rest of the day Grumpy, aren't the H beams overkill, 6-700hp? After finding out the HP ratings on the I beams, I returned mine and went the forged I beam 4340 with capscrew. JS

Don't forget setting your redline on your tach to 10,000, and leave a hint of your last dial in, say a 8.20 on the windshield. Greasing your hair back and a little elmers to glue your cheeks back give you that high g force effect. JS

I used to experience this with my old NA 4.3. I kept trying to get more gas to it, to no avail. The fact that it cleans up when you let up sounds like too much fuel to me. Here's what I found and it might help. Find what secondary metering rods you have and go LEANER, that is a fatter tip on the rod. If you can't locate any, I thought I spied some in the bottom of my toy box in the garage. I couldn't believe how much the WOT cleaned up after this. I had some needle size tips I was sure would add hp, but the big ones really sped things up. Also, I'd adjust the secondary spring for off line performance. I start loose, then go in 1/4 turns until bog was just eliminated. Then I had a major traction problem. If this doesn't help you might trygoing richer, with the thinner tips, but I'm betting on the other way. I'd look for a vacuum leak around the carb, pcv and lines, as well as accel pump, for you other problem. If you always have a part throttle surge, then jet up 2 numbers.

At least it wasn't with another women! I'm no techie, but if you want pricing information: the 4340 lightweight forged I beams, bushed for full floating, from Scat are only about $230 and good for 600hp, according to Scat tech. Eagle and others have similar rods. I backed out on my H beams. Overkill and put the $$ into more head work. JS

Mine has a 60W. Trouble light hanging in the hole. JS

Has anyone gone to a professional driveline fabricator and had a set custom built? After a long disscussion on CV joints, the owner of our local Northern colorado drivelines claims he can make a set of 1/2 shafts that would be near indestructable. If the stock and aftermarket joints aren't strong enough, why not get some bigger ones made?.. OOps. Read the whole thread then reply. Like Jens said... JS

Was your TV cable adjusted correctly? Cable fully retracted, then let ratchet out at WOT. Running lock up in 4th? These both will burn a 700 down quickly.

Hmmmm....I don't condone high speed runs, but in my ignorant earlier Z days I hit 5600 rpm in 4th a .7 overdrive, locked up, on a 700R4 w/3.54 rear, 24.75 diam tires. It was still pulling hard! I was seeing if the Vette 700R4 really stayed in 4th at WOT and got carried away. It was too damn fast and didn't take very long. My car has a slight nose down rake, with no aerodynamic mods. Its cool to know your car is really fast, but I really have no desire to do top end runs again. I'm afraid one of these days we're going to hear of someone doing this and having a catastrophic wreck. Not a smart experiment. JS

In response to a previous post, a supercharged engine produces boost, only when you put your foot down. The rest of the time, cruise, light part throttle, you have vacuum just like NA. A good relief valve helps to keep air from "stacking" when not in use. Having just retired my 4.3 Procharged Z, I can say the system is effecient, relatively inexpensive, staraight forward and simple to install. Clearance on a V8 will pose a problem with some if not all the many units availible, in the JTR position. I pulled down high twenty mpg on my road trips. On pump gas, at 12 or so psi and under it was rock solid reliable with huge gains in hp. It is only when I tried to push the limits of the pullies and belts, 16,17 18 psi that I ran into belt trouble. If you would be happy with a modest 60% bump in your power, I think the Procharger will be more reliable than just about anything else under your hood. Which is why I also like the Procharger...it fits well under the hood. JS

I'd say the V8, dollar for dollar, wins hands down in the power and torque even with the 100 or so pound penalty. For balance and handling I love the idea of the V6. For those that appreciate engine placement, its fun to see the eyes pop when you open the hood and claim 17+ inches from the front of the engine...to the radiator! JS

Did S10s come with a 4 speed?? If you're thinking of the S10 T5, too wimpy torque rating and way too low 1st gear. I believe the WCT5 S10 tail shaft will straighten the odd camaro/TA angle, but then you have a speedo problem as they don't have provisions for taditional speedo gear. I'd bet most of the S10 V8 swaps have upgraded their transmissions as well. JS

I have the Falken Ziex tires, 205Frnt/225Rear 50 16. At the time it was all I could afford and find in the size I needed. Great corning traction. Anyone caught in the rain on their wide tired Z would appreciate the Ziex wet traction. JS

Regardless of the actual capabilities, my predictions were based on the formula: Engine speed=mph x final drive ratio ____________________________________ tire OD(inches) X 0.002975 Vipers and Corvettes with less hp are are pushing some pretty high speeds. Also, 383s can be built to run well into the 7000s, all day long, if you got the $$. Dont over look the rods! JS

Mike's 2.66 1st gear with the 4.11s (10.93) will similar to a 2.95 1st with 3.55s (10.47). His .5 6th will still only be 2.05 with the 4.11s. Plenty of room for top end blasts. I think 200mph will occur around 55-5600. I think its a great match for the cam and transmission. JS

Yeah!! Thats the direction to go. I bet that will fit your tranny ratios better, as well. JS