John Scott

Not jumping on the v8 wagon...yet, but never too soon to start planning the next round! I've been looking at the Brodix track 1s (last years catalog) vs the Fast Burns availible from chevy. The fast burns, for the price seem very competitive, if not the better deal. Especially if you get the new bare models. Since they come with smallish 2.00/1.55 valves an upgrade to the 2.02 1.60s would help even out the hp potential. Intake ccs are slightly smaller than Brodix, but exhaust ports are bigger. I haven't seen actual flow rates/lift on the fast burns, but they say, out of box, good for over 500 hp. How do these compare to other aftermarket heads dollar for dollar? Is Chevy the best deal here? Anyone have current prices? JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 11, 2001).]

Ron, when I'm not dreaming about putting a NASCAR 4.3 in my Z I'm dreaming about a 383. Sounds like a great deal. What is the CR of the pistons with what cc head? Post the phone number, please. You just never know. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 11, 2001).]

Madman, this depends which flywheel or flexplate you intend to use. 153 tooth is going to be the most common and uses the in-line bolt holes. The 168 tooth uses the staggered bolt pattern. There are a few starters that adapt to either size. Make sure you get a model that will clear the Z frame. The JTR manual has good info here. The one I picked is for the 93-96 V8 camaro. only 10 lbs, compact, but really pricey. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 10, 2001).]

Push slip yoke in all the way then subtract 3/4 to 1 inch. Most movement from the driveline is away from the transmission. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 08, 2001).]

Nope, luckily there is no cure JS

Sorry to hear it Sean. Hope you can get it back together soon. JS

Rob, didn't you use the smaller 6.25 Fluidamper on your ZZ4? JS

Pete, a masterpiece is not judged by time. I wish I had your patience and dedication to perfection. I'm a victim of instant gratification syndrome! JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 05, 2001).]

Frogman, What finally swayed me to go T56 was visiting our local trans shop and seeing the pile of T5 gears! I spent a lot of time discussing a WCT5 only to find that even with all the upgrades it still wouldn't handle drag strip duty. No I don't plan on really abusing my trans, but you get the adreneline up some day and really bang a couple...who wants to pull a transmission again. No matter how cheap they are. One more costly T56 is going to be cheaper than a few T5s. Your monster SBC deserves nothing less than a T56. Don't create a weak link! You'll sleep better knowing its in there. BTW my friend blew his new WCT5's third gear THE DAY it was put in. That was with a bone stock 305. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 05, 2001).]

Mike, We have both extremes...-15 or less in the winter, can be over 100 in the summer! I had the cooler mounted right in front of my radiator. The place I bought the cooler (transmission shop) stated the cooler will handle the duty alone. I have two big electric pusher fans for the radiator that probably helped draw some air through. Might not be a bad idea to get a trans temp gauge and see if the cooler is handling the temps. Had it to the drags? Like to hear how you did. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 04, 2001).]

Sean, there will always be a limited amount of blowby. When you described smelling something sweet the only thing that comes to mind is coolant. I've had leaking and full blown head gaskets. My experience has been that this usually happens on the fire ring on the head gasket causing coolant to be drawn into the cylinder. White smoke out the tail pipe? If you are leaking coolant into the oil it won't always make a "milk shake" of your oil. A really small leak will cause more than normal blow by and smell of antifreeze. You'll also see condinsation on the dipstick, and milky oil on the bottom of the filler plug, breathers etc. Really check the heads and everywhere you can see inside the block for any signs of coolant coming in. Cracks can be hairline, almost invisibe, but look for any unusual residue. Hopefully this is just a case of bad gaskets. What condition were the heads in? Valve seals/ guides. Are they being magnafluxed for cracks? JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 01, 2001).]

Your 78 block will be a 2 piece design, unleess the unlikely 86 and newer design has been added with requisite adapter. For production crankshafts '55-85 use the 2 piece seal with 3.58 bolt pattern, the '86 up are one piece and 3 inch. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited February 28, 2001).]

Odd, I had a post here..no that was in the drivetrain forum, ahhhh I thought I was going nuts. I've had a previous vehicle do just what you're describing. No it won't be evident in the mirror as only a couple of degrees play will make it pull. Same deal accel it pulled one way, let off, the other. I found a mount was loose on one side. Check everything back there for play, it doesn't take much. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited February 27, 2001).]

Mike, In another post you mentioned your 700 shifting too soon. Did you get your TV cable intalled and adjusted correctly? If the tension isn't right you'll get early soft shifts. I used to get about 5500 from 1-2, about 5000 2-3. Of course you can hold these as high as you want. Improper TV and lock up can kill the 700. Any questions post, give me a call, or E-mail me. JS

Yes, I had this happen in another car. Kind of like 4 wheel steering Rear end mounts had play. Check your bolts bushings etc. Had a similar effect when my tension rod up front came loose. That 'bout put me in the ditch. JS

This has been addressed a couple of times..about a yer ago. Was it Mark(?) who said the rear spoiler did in fact reduce the fumes from entering the rear? Must be a common problem. I get sick from the stuff too. My hatch could use some tightening. JS

Also check all your mounts, bushings, fasteners. 6 u joints all OK? JS

Old rule of thumb, if an engine blows smoke under power, up a hill, its rings, if it blows after coasting down a hill, after sitting at a stop light, high vacuum, its usually valve guides/seals. I agree with the correct cylinder wall requirements for different rings. Todays rings should seat almost instantly. Bummer, hope you get it resolved. JS

TFL, 10 mpg?? I'd check the state of tune on your motor/ compatibility of components. Unless you have really low gearing a 3 or 4 speed and huge cam, it should get better. Even the big bad nasty 383s here get way better milage. Check the archives/search for fuel cell posts. Ought to be plenty of them. By the way, welcome to the site. JS

Also can check for condensation on the upper end of your dip stick, bottom of breathers etc. I once had a crack in the lifter valley of my block, so don't rule anything out yet. When the heads are off you can verify if the gasket(s) are leaking. Not always that obvious. Sometimes it takes a trained eye. Make sure you've pinpointed and cured the source before reassembly. Felpro as most hipo head gaskets need no sealant. Good luck! JS

Its factory parts like these that make me get the V8 fever again. My knees get weak every time I read about the ZZ450 (Sallee Chevrolet) 377/383 Fast burn heads, HOT cam. JS

Hi Mike, wait a minute, the 700 has 4 forward gears, the last being a .7:1 ratio, overdriven. All you do is shift to 4th, assuming you are going fast enough for the trans. to shift. This isn't a electronically activated gear. I assume you have a good shifter. Set it up carefully as the detents are small. 7, 4 for the forward gears, P,R,N. Perhaps you are talking about the lock up? I used Toy Shops wiring and valvebody switch upgrade. It is wired to the 4th gear switch in the valve body. When you shift to 4th it locks up the converter. Really the only gear it is needed. Don't defeat this feature as it is part of the lubrication circuit in 4th. The wire coming from the side connector splices to a "ignition on" hot wire. Some wire in a brake defeat switch so it doesn't buck at low speeds when braking in 4th. I always pulled it manually into 3rd at really low speeds. This defeats lock up as well. The only B&M valve I know about is for the "lesser" non Vette 700s that have the nasty habit of downshifting into 3rd at full throttle. The valve still doesn't allow 100% full throttle. Not to worry with this trans as it stays in 4th as long as you want to, or your Z becomes airborne. I've seen 160+! Don't recommend it to anyone in a stock body, brakes, etc. E-mail or call if you need anything. Watch out for that 1-2 shift...its nasty! JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited February 19, 2001).]

I'd just hate to see someone unfamiliar with boosted motors try and run hyper. pistons just because someone else does. The GN and Syclones came with hyper pistons, but also with sophisticated manufacture designed engine management system. Hopefully everyone will address thier projects as carefully as Scottie. For those of you w/o the high tech datalogging, O2, knock sensors etc., the avaerage Joe who's going to bolt on a supercharger and try it, spend the extra on forged.

Couldn't resist the Misses/girlfriend comment. My wife always came home after driving my toys with waaaay less tire tread than when she left. I could hear her a mile away JS

This is one of those little rips offs that I hate when dealing with Chevy parts. Check your parts stores. I had the same problem (aftermarket T56 w/ T5 slave). After a litle research I found they finally make an all metal replacement slave for the T5. Way better quality than stock plastic. Maybe the stock replacement T56 slave is becoming availible too. JS