John Scott

eurozx, A 300zx v6 would be really cool. I don't think anyone here has ever done it. Turbos or nat. aspirated? Doug 83zxt, happy with two modifications? I love it when that happens. Where did you notice the difference? I'm planning on adding one this winter. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited September 27, 2000).]

There's obviously lots to learn about stopping. Like many gear heads I've been hung up on the go part all my life. Spare 500 bucks? Into the engine every time. As I get older I realize the safty concerns of having brakes up to the caliber of the car. As my car matures with me, I can say excellent brakes are on the list. I'd like to see more discussions on the best stopping power for the money. Mike, and others, as you start to really push your car, I'd like to hear some reports on how the binders are performing. JS

What about the Chevy 60 degree? Light weight, lots of perf. parts and rear wheel configured. JS

The WHOA is usually whimpy compared to the GO in most of our projects. Sounds like you're equalizing that. Something we all should seriously address. (Listen, John!) Mike, I'm not trying to knock the cross drilled rotors, and I feel your car is the most professionally approached and built project here, but I have read contradictions on cross drilling. Some say it will actually cause heating of the rotor (Baer Racing) and was designed to let asbestos pads de-gas and remain in contact with the rotor. Yet, everywhere you still see them offered even though asbestos is no longer used. Most say cross drilled will run cooler. Opinions? JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited September 25, 2000).]

My 2 cents: You want your oil hot and your intake charge cool. Thats why 160 thermos. make more power due to less heat transfer in the manifold. Kind of a band aid, but cooler mixture = denser charge= more hp. I can't find the low end for oil temp efficiency, but engine oil should not exceed 270 degrees. On the new cars, you'll see aftermarket chips that can't make power w/o the cooler thermostat. Is it just due to a leaner mixture? The hotter ones just peg the knock sensor even with the new calibration. I'd like to see a dyno test too. Would be interesting. I think there's going to be a big difference between FI and carburetion on this one. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited September 24, 2000).]

I love the ol' Q-Jets. Yes they are a pain to tune, change jets, etc. When they are set up right, on the right engine, have amazing throttle response. Very sophisticated idle to power circuts. My experience with these were most had the secondary spring set to loose causing the tell tale baaa...WHAAAAH! Came in many sizes from the one on my 4.3 300+ cfm to 800. Don't ask 'cause I don't remember what #s are what any more. Also give great milage on the primaries. I'm hooked on Holleys for their ease of tuning and perf. potential. Most performance manifolds cater to the Holley as well. Try a Qjet! Maybe you'll be sold. (When Rochester plant burned down, Carter took over for a few years, or so I was told. Had an old Carter Qjet on my olds 425!) JS

Kits? You're supposed to be a performance fabrication artist! Probably no kits, but with the expensive part of a Procharger, brakets and drives are just a trip to the machine shop away. Since everything is availible for them, a turbo, would be simpler with the Z engine, no doubt. JS

Don't you love Scottie's math?? Amazing how helpful a few formulas can be. Also how humbling some times. JS

Just installed my new shorter driveshaft. 16.75 inches!! Keeps getting smaller! All spicer and ready to rock. He's done beautiful work for me over the last 20+ years. Wish my wages went up like his have over the years! Had an interesting conversation about 1/2 shafts and u joints vs cvs. He favors u joint set ups for really high hp. Said he sees too many failures on the cvs. I know in the stock form the cvs are the way to go over the stock u joints. Please educate me why, for the Z, the cvs are preferable when a really custom stout u joint 1/2 shaft can be made. JS

Leonard, I think any turbo 6 set up would be cool. Is supercharging (centrifugal) an option, or do you want to go more high tech? I'm sure you'll get some good feedback on this one. JS

I would agree that a hot running engine is the way to go. Those of us with obnoxious things like superchargers in the way of the valve covers have to rely on the other method. (I adjust after a good warm up)Since we're dealing with hydraulic lifters either way will be acceptable. Solids lifters are another story. JS

OK gang. I need a new starter to go with my new small diam. flywheel. I really like the minis for the size and weight savings, but have heard the build quality can vary in some brands. Any suggestions? Please include a $ figure if you can. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited September 18, 2000).]

At 120-30-40 the Vette trans does not kick down providing WOT runs in 4th. A really exhilarating ride to 160+ and beyond if you have the aerodynams. 5800 in 4th was on my tach between 65th and 47th ave on highway 34. I won't do it again on V rated tires and stock Z body! Just gettin into the meat of the boost again, too. JS

Good choice on the Magnums! Light and strong. Again I'll add to Frog's technique. Make sure the cam is off the lobe and on the base circle. Loosen the adjusting nut so the push rod has play in it. Spin the pushrod between your fingers as you tighten lock nut. When it just "grabs" and becomes harder to turn you are at 0 lash. Then give your preload, anywhere from 1/4 to 1 full turn. Adjust intake when the exhaust is just starting to open. Adjust the exhaust just when the intake is starting to close. On a real healthy cam some run as little as 1/4 turn, but will be more noisy. I usually run 3/4 and have no problem seeing 7000+ rpm. 3/4- 1 full turn is the standard set. Mine are slightly clicky, anyway more so than a standard rocker. JS

The later 700s are superior to the anemic early 80s models. I would have to believe that the premium model would be run in Chevy's flagship, the Corvette. As I've said earlier, everything I researched led me to believe (and buy) the 87 up models were the ones of choice. We've all seen T5s holding up where the shouldn't. A few high powered Mustangs and an overely ZZzealous horsepower freak in Palisade, come to mind. The lighter weight of the Z has to contribute to a higher torque rating of any transmission. Running slicks won't help a weak trans, but if you drive like me (more of the highway/ stoplight whippings)...I don't know and can't guarantee what a 700 will do behind a 383 with a supercharger, but I would think it should be vastly stonger than your T5. (I have an acquaintance in town running a 383 w/ 14+ psi in a heavier Corvette for many years, now in a Camaro. He would know all the building tips for 700 duribilty) Cold weather is coming, Rick. Sounds like you have a new winter project. I think the drive shafts are the same length as the T5 as are the splines. So, what happened to the Z project for your significant other? JS

ZGOO, Welcome aboard. I love the idea of the 270 hp rotory. With the weight savings your power to weight would be similar to the 300 hp Z engine. If you go the Z route, of course there will be much more info and parts availibe to speed the transplant. Plus you're in good company with members like Drax 240z, who is already well on his way with his killer turbo 6 shooter. The mazda would be pretty unique, but probably has some interesting hurdles to overcome. Sounds like you have to decide betwen unique and the tried and true. Keep us updated. JS

Michael, I had a roller rocker come loose and sound like a rod. When lifters are pumped up it will subside. I can't believe this (rod bearing) could happen on a fesh engine. Check with the rockers, and pushrods (bent) and work your way down. No one needs this kind of misery. Good luck and keep us posted on what you find. JS

I agree with Darius' recommendation for the splayed four bolts and eagle rods. Everyone who runs a blower will someday start to wonder what just a few more lbs of boost will do. Take the time and $$ to give yourself room to grow and build the beefiest bottom end you can afford. My wimpy two bolt has major main cap walk. 4K mi. and down to the copper on most. If I had been satisfied with 10 psi probably would live longer. 14,16, then 18 psi- Once you experience the power of the high boost you won't be satisfied with going back. I like the idea of a really low comp. ratio engine in the light weight Z. I don't want a zillion lb of torque off idle. I'd rather it came in around 2000 rpm. Easy to modulate with a stick. Mine runs 7.5 and is perfectly happy with 14-16 psi. I know I'm on a short lease with the new bearings in mine, but mabe a stout V8 will be the next logical step. I'll be all ears with the charged V8 info. JS

Cable adj. is simple. Push release button (hard to push!) and pull cable from behind until it is fully retracted/ stops. Let go of button, then throttle wide open. Cable ratchets into place. This is the only way to set the right tension. Had a lock up go out that caused flairing while in gear. The 1-2 shift is pretty nasty in the 700s. 2-3 will be much softer and slower. My vette 700 shifted much quicker 2-3 as my truck 700, but rarely enough to spin the tires. JS

Manual wired lock ups are only as good as your memory to use them. Run them in 4th for very long w/o lockup and you can ruin a trans. An easy fix is the harness from Toy shop or another trans shop that makes for auto lock up when you shift to fourth. Really only gear you need it any way. Don't forget your brake defeat or it bucks when you slow down in 4th. JS

Ross, I can't remember the exact weight difference. I've got the #s somewhere. After seeing some of the weights posted for the V8s, I can't say mines really much lighter. I'd guess 2505 with the new trans.(240s are pretty light to begin with) I do know having less engine hanging out over the front makes a big difference in the handling. The weight bias is definitely more to the rear. JS

So bigger is obviously better (rotors/ pad area) but what about width of the rotor. I see a HUGE difference between the Toyota swaps and lets say the pricey Willwood kit offered by Ariz.Zcar. I think their kit runs a whopping 1.25". Are the narrower toyota rotors up to the task. Bottom line is my stock brakes stink and are only good for one good stop. Anything including dragging my shoe on the pavement would be an improvement. I need the biggest bang for the buck. Would everyone agree the 85 truck 4x4 calipers are not worth the effort? I need the biggest bang for the buck. JS

POWER TO WEIGHT!! I haven't seen to many camaros in the mid 2K lb bracket. Plus IRS, rack and pinion steering, countless tips tricks and upgrades. Go for a ride in a high HP Z and you'll never look back,...except to see the Camaro dissappearing..fast! Looks? The Z is a timeless classic. JS

Sorry SCCA. I've been in the garage too long today. I'll look in to the tips. I won't be changing my centerlines. I love 'em! JS

NAPA has a set they call a complete bolt in with the pads for $56/per. $112 for a complete set!!?? Now what master do I need. The JTR doesn't give info on this. Anyone make a proport. valve recommendation? JS